It is quite difficult to learn to take good photographs if you do not know the basics and main terms and concepts in photography. Therefore, the purpose of this article is to give a general understanding of what photography is, how a camera works and to get acquainted with the basic photographic terms.
Since today, film photography has become largely history, we will now talk about digital photography. Although 90% of all terminology is unchanged, and the principles of obtaining photographs are the same.
How is a photograph made?
The term photography means painting with light. In fact, the camera records the light coming through the lens onto the matrix and based on this light an image is formed. The mechanism of how an image is created based on light is quite complex and many scientific works have been written on this topic. By and large, detailed knowledge this process not so necessary.
How does image formation occur?
Passing through the lens, the light hits the photosensitive element, which records it. In digital cameras, this element is the matrix. The matrix is initially closed from light by a curtain (camera shutter), which, when the shutter button is pressed, is retracted for a certain time (shutter speed), allowing light to act on the matrix during this time.
The result, that is, the photograph itself, directly depends on the amount of light hitting the matrix.
Photography is the recording of light on a camera matrix
Types of digital cameras
By and large, there are 2 main types of cameras.
Mirror (DSLR) and without mirror. The main difference between them is that in a DSLR camera, through a mirror installed in the body, you see the image directly through the lens in the viewfinder.
That is, “what I see, I photograph.”
In modern ones without mirrors, 2 techniques are used for this
- The viewfinder is optical and located to the side of the lens. When shooting, you need to make a small correction for the offset of the viewfinder relative to the lens. Typically used on point and shoot cameras
- Electronic viewfinder. The simplest example is transferring an image directly to the camera display. Typically used on soap dishes, but in DSLR cameras this mode is often used in conjunction with optical mode and is called Live View.
How the camera works
Let's consider the operation of a DSLR camera, as the most popular option for those who really want to achieve something in photography.
A DSLR camera consists of a body (usually “body”, “body” - from the English body) and a lens (“glass”, “lens”).
Inside the body of a digital camera there is a matrix that captures the image.
Pay attention to the diagram above. When you look through the viewfinder, light passes through the lens, reflects off the mirror, then refracts through the prism and enters the viewfinder. This way you see through the lens what you will be shooting. The moment you press the shutter, the mirror rises, the shutter opens, light hits the sensor and is captured. This is how a photograph is obtained.
Now let's move on to the basic terms.
Pixel and megapixel
Let's start with the term "new digital age". It belongs more to the computer field than to photography, but is nevertheless important.
Any digital image is created from small dots called pixels. In digital photography, the number of pixels in the image is equal to the number of pixels on the camera matrix. The matrix itself consists of pixels.
If you enlarge any digital image many times, you will notice that the image consists of small squares - these are pixels.
A megapixel is 1 million pixels. Accordingly, the more megapixels in the camera matrix, the greater the number of pixels the image consists of.
If you zoom in on the photo, you can see the pixels.
What does a large number of pixels give? It's simple. Imagine that you are drawing a picture not with strokes, but with dots. Can you draw a circle if you only have 10 dots? It may be possible to do this, but most likely the circle will be “angular”. The more dots, the more detailed and accurate the image will be.
But there are two pitfalls here that are successfully exploited by marketers. Firstly, megapixels alone are not enough to take high-quality photographs; for this you also need a high-quality lens. Secondly, a large number of megapixels is important for printing photos in large sizes. For example, for a full-wall poster. When viewing a photo on a monitor screen, especially one reduced to fit the screen size, you will not see the difference between 3 or 10 megapixels for a simple reason.
The monitor screen usually fits far fewer pixels than are contained in your photo. That is, on the screen, when you compress a photo to screen size or less, you lose most of your “megapixels.” And a 10 megapixel photo will turn into a 1 megapixel one.
Shutter and shutter speed
The shutter is what blocks the camera's sensor from light until you press the shutter button.
Shutter speed is the time for which the shutter opens and the mirror rises. The shorter the shutter speed, the less light will hit the matrix. The longer the exposure time, the more light.
On a bright sunny day, you will need a very fast shutter speed - for example, just 1/1000 of a second - to get enough light onto the sensor. At night, it may take several seconds or even minutes to get enough light.
Shutter speed is determined in fractions of a second or in seconds. For example 1/60sec.
Diaphragm
The diaphragm is a multi-blade partition located inside the lens. It can be completely open or closed so much that there is only a small hole for light.
The aperture also serves to limit the amount of light that ultimately reaches the lens matrix. That is, shutter speed and aperture perform one task - regulating the flow of light entering the matrix. Why use exactly two elements?
Strictly speaking, the diaphragm is not a mandatory element. For example, in cheap point-and-shoot cameras and cameras of mobile devices it is not available as a class. But aperture is extremely important for achieving certain effects related to depth of field, which will be discussed later.
The aperture is designated by the letter f followed by the aperture number, for example, f/2.8. The lower the number, the more open the petals and the wider the opening.
ISO sensitivity
Roughly speaking, this is the sensitivity of the matrix to light. The higher the ISO, the more receptive the matrix is to light. For example, to get a good shot at ISO 100 you will need a certain amount of light. But if there is not enough light, you can set ISO 1600, the matrix will become more sensitive and you will need several times less light for a good result.
It would seem that what is the problem? Why make different ISOs if you can make the maximum? There are several reasons. Firstly - if there is a lot of light. For example, in winter on a bright sunny day, when there is only snow all around, we will be faced with the task of limiting a colossal amount of light and a high ISO will only get in the way. Secondly (and this main reason) - the appearance of “digital noise”.
Noise is the scourge of the digital matrix, which manifests itself in the appearance of “grain” in the photograph. The higher the ISO, the more noise, the worse the photo quality.
Therefore, the amount of noise at high ISOs is one of the most important indicators of the quality of the matrix and a subject of constant improvement.
In principle, the noise indicators at high ISOs of modern DSLRs, especially top-end ones, are at a fairly good level, but they are still far from ideal.
Due to technological features, the amount of noise depends on the actual, physical dimensions of the matrix and the size of the pixels of the matrix. The smaller the matrix and the more megapixels, the higher the noise.
Therefore, the “cropped” matrices of cameras of mobile devices and compact point-and-shoot cameras will always make much more noise than those of professional DSLRs.
Exposure and exposure pair
Having become familiar with the concepts of shutter speed, aperture and sensitivity, let’s move on to the most important thing.
Exposure is a key concept in photography. Without understanding what exposure is, you are unlikely to learn how to take good photographs.
Formally, exposure is the amount of illumination of the photosensitive sensor. Roughly speaking - the amount of light falling on the matrix.
Your photo will depend on this:
- If it turns out to be too light, then the image is overexposed, too much light has hit the matrix and you have “exposed” the frame.
- If the photo is too dark, the image is underexposed; more light needs to hit the sensor.
- Not too light, not too dark, means the exposure is chosen correctly.
From left to right - overexposed, underexposed and correctly exposed
The exposure is formed by selecting a combination of shutter speed and aperture, which is also called “exposure pair”. The photographer’s task is to choose a combination so as to provide the necessary amount of light to create an image on the matrix.
In this case, it is necessary to take into account the sensitivity of the matrix - the higher the ISO, the lower the exposure should be.
Focus point
The focus point, or simply focus, is the point at which you “focus.” To focus the lens on an object means to select the focus in such a way that this object is as sharp as possible.
Modern cameras usually use autofocus, a complex system that allows you to automatically focus on a selected point. But how autofocus works depends on many parameters, such as lighting. In poor lighting, autofocus may miss or may not be able to do its job at all. Then you'll have to switch to manual focusing and rely on your own eye.
Focusing by eyes
The point at which autofocus will focus is visible in the viewfinder. This is usually a small red dot. Initially it is centered, but on DSLR cameras you can choose a different point for better frame composition.
Focal length
Focal length is one of the characteristics of a lens. Formally, this characteristic shows the distance from the optical center of the lens to the matrix, where a sharp image of the object is formed. Focal length is measured in millimeters.
What is more important is the physical determination of the focal length, and what practical effect. Everything is simple here. The longer the focal length, the more the lens “brings closer” to the object. And the smaller the “angle of view” of the lens.
- Lenses with a short focal length are called wide-angle (“shiriki”) - they don’t “bring anything closer” but capture a wide angle of view.
- Lenses with a long focal length are called long-focus or telephoto lenses.
- Lenses with a constant (fixed) focal length are called “fixes”. And if you can change the focal length, then it is a “zoom lens,” or, more simply, a zoom lens.
The zooming process is the process of changing the focal length of a lens.
Depth of field or depth of field
Another important concept in photography is depth of field - depth of field. This is the area behind and in front of the focus point within which objects in the frame appear sharp.
With a shallow depth of field, objects will be blurred just a few centimeters or even millimeters from the focusing point.
With a large depth of field, objects at a distance of tens and hundreds of meters from the focusing point can be sharp.
Depth of field depends on the aperture value, focal length and distance to the focusing point.
Aperture
Aperture is throughput lens. In other words, this is maximum quantity light that the lens is able to transmit to the matrix. The larger the aperture, the better and the more expensive the lens.
Aperture depends on three components - the minimum possible aperture, focal length, as well as the quality of the optics itself and the optical design of the lens. Actually, the quality of the optics and the optical design influence the price.
Let's not go deep into physics. We can say that the aperture of a lens is expressed by the ratio of the maximum open aperture to the focal length. Typically, manufacturers indicate the aperture ratio on lenses in the form of numbers 1:1.2, 1:1.4, 1:1.8, 1:2.8, 1:5.6, etc.
The higher the ratio, the greater the aperture ratio. Accordingly, in this case, the fastest lens will be 1: 1.2
Carl Zeiss Planar 50mm f/0.7 is one of the fastest lenses in the world
The choice of lens based on aperture ratio must be approached wisely. Since aperture depends on the aperture, a fast lens at its minimum aperture will have a very shallow depth of field. Therefore, there is a chance that you will never use f/1.2, since you simply will not be able to really focus.
Dynamic range
The concept of dynamic range is also very important, although it is not heard out loud very often. Dynamic range is the ability of a matrix to convey simultaneously bright and dark areas of an image without loss.
You've probably noticed that if you try to remove a window while in the center of the room, you'll get two options in the picture:
- The wall on which the window is located will turn out well, but the window itself will be just a white spot
- The view from the window will be clearly visible, but the wall around the window will turn into a black spot
This is due to the very large dynamic range of such a scene. The difference in brightness inside the room and outside the window is too great for a digital camera to perceive in its entirety.
Another example of high dynamic range is landscape. If the sky is bright and the bottom is dark enough, then either the sky in the photo will be white or the bottom will be black.
Typical example of a high dynamic range scene
We see everything normally, because the dynamic range perceived by the human eye is much wider than that perceived by camera matrices.
Bracketing and exposure compensation
Another concept related to the exhibition is bracketing. Bracketing is the sequential shooting of several frames with different exposures.
Typically, so-called automatic bracketing is used. You give the camera the number of frames and the exposure offset in steps (stops).
Three frames are most often used. Let's say we want to take 3 frames at an offset of 0.3 stops (EV). In this case, the camera will first take one frame with the given exposure value, then with the exposure offset by -0.3 stops, and a frame with an offset of +0.3 stops.
As a result, you will get three frames - underexposed, overexposed and normally exposed.
Bracketing can be used to more accurately select exposure parameters. For example, you are not sure that you have chosen the correct exposure, you shoot a series with bracketing, look at the result and understand in which direction you need to change the exposure, more or less.
Example shot with exposure compensation at -2EV and +2EV
After which you can use exposure compensation. That is, you set it on the camera in exactly the same way - take a frame with exposure compensation of +0.3 stops and press the shutter.
The camera takes the current exposure value, adds 0.3 stops to it and takes the photo.
Exposure compensation can be very convenient for quick adjustments when you don’t have time to think about what needs to be changed - shutter speed, aperture or sensitivity to get the correct exposure and make the photo lighter or darker.
Crop factor and full frame sensor
This concept came to life along with digital photography.
Full-frame is considered to be the physical size of the matrix, equal to the size of a 35mm frame on film. Due to the desire for compactness and the cost of manufacturing the matrix, in mobile devices, point-and-shoot cameras and non-professional DSLRs install “cropped” matrices, that is, reduced in size relative to the full-frame one.
Based on this, a full-frame matrix has a crop factor equal to 1. The higher the crop factor, the smaller the area of the matrix relative to the full frame. For example, with a crop factor of 2, the matrix will be half the size.
A lens designed for a full frame will capture only part of the image on a cropped sensor
What is the disadvantage of a cropped matrix? Firstly, the smaller the matrix size, the higher the noise. Secondly, 90% of lenses produced over the decades of photography are designed for full frame size. Thus, the lens “transmits” the image based on the full size of the frame, but the small cropped sensor perceives only part of this image.
White balance
Another characteristic that appeared with the advent of digital photography. White balance is the process of adjusting the colors of a photo to produce natural tones. In this case, the starting point is pure white.
With the correct white balance, the white color in the photo (for example, paper) looks truly white, and not bluish or yellowish.
White balance depends on the type of light source. For the sun there is one, for cloudy weather another, for electric lighting a third.
Typically, beginners shoot with automatic white balance. This is convenient, since the camera itself selects the desired value.
But unfortunately, automation is not always so smart. Therefore, pros often set the white balance manually, using a sheet of white paper or another object that has a white color or a shade as close to it as possible.
Another way is to correct the white balance on the computer after the photo is taken. But for this it is highly advisable to shoot in RAW
RAW and JPEG
Digital photography is computer file with a set of data from which an image is formed. Most common file format for display digital photos— JPEG.
The problem is that JPEG is a so-called lossy compression format.
Let's say we have a beautiful sunset sky, in which there are a thousand halftones of various colors. If we try to save all the variety of shades, the file size will be simply huge.
Therefore, JPEG throws out “extra” shades when saving. Roughly speaking, if there is a blue color in the frame, a little more blue and a little less blue, then JPEG will leave only one of them. The more Jpeg is “compressed,” the smaller its size, but the fewer colors and image details it conveys.
RAW is a “raw” set of data captured by the camera’s matrix. Formally, this data is not yet an image. This is the raw material for creating an image. Due to the fact that RAW stores a complete set of data, the photographer has many more options for processing this image, especially if some kind of “error correction” was required during the shooting stage.
In fact, when shooting in JPEG, the following happens: the camera transmits “raw data” to the camera’s microprocessor, it processes it according to the algorithms embedded in it “to make it look beautiful,” throws out everything unnecessary from its point of view and saves the data in JPEG, which you see on the computer as the final image.
Everything would be fine, but if you want to change something, it may turn out that the processor has already thrown out the data you need as unnecessary. This is where RAW comes to the rescue. When you shoot in RAW, the camera simply gives you a set of data, and then do with it what you want.
Beginners often bump into this, having read that RAW provides better quality. RAW doesn't give better quality on its own - it gives you a lot more options to get it best quality during photo processing.
RAW is the raw material - JPEG is the finished result
For example, upload to Lightroom and create your image manually.
A popular practice is to shoot RAW+Jpeg at the same time - when the camera stores both. JPEG can be used to quickly view material, and if something goes wrong and serious correction is required, then you have the original data in RAW form.
Conclusion
I hope this article will help those who just want to take up photography on a more serious level. Perhaps some termsOthers and concepts will seem too complicated to you, but don’t be afraid. It's actually very simple.
So, let's start learning the professional jargon of fellow photographers...)))
DX encoding- data on the characteristics of the film, specially applied to the cassette and certain places on the film itself. It is used to automatically enter photosensitivity, number of frames, latitude into the camera, as well as to determine the necessary parameters in the process of automated processing and printing using modern mini-photo laboratories.
EV (exposure (light) number)- a conditional number characterizing photographic conditions and used to determine exposure (setting the shutter speed/aperture pair).
TTL (Through The Lens - through the lens)- used in two meanings, the first is through-lens metering, the second meaning is the flash control system, also using through-lens metering. “Flash” TTL allows you to determine the magnitude of the flash pulse required for normal exposure of the frame; in this case, metering occurs during exposure with the shutter open; sensors in the camera measure the light reflected from the film and a signal is transmitted from the camera to the flash, according to which it stops the pulse.
Zoom (zoom)- This is a device for changing the focal length of the lens, which allows you to optically bring your subjects closer or further away. Using Zoom, it is convenient to zoom and compose a shot, while the photographer can remain in one place.
Automatic exposure- shutter speed and aperture are set automatically, usually it is possible to adjust them manually.
Self-timer- camera shutter delay device. The shutter is automatically released a certain time after the shutter is pressed.
Autofocus- automatic focusing. Autofocus can be passive or active, and there are also models that use a hybrid autofocus system. The passive focusing system is based on determining image contrast (image contrast refers to the ratio between the brightest and darkest areas of the image). With active autofocus, the camera determines the distance to the subject by illuminating it with infrared radiation and determining the time of return of the reflected signal. There are also active autofocus systems using ultrasound.
White balance is a function that allows you to compensate for color distortions caused by different sources lighting (sunlight, incandescent or fluorescent light). Most digital cameras have an automatic white balance feature. At automatic configuration The image processing system adjusts the camera's color sensitivity so that the final image has approximately equal levels of all color components.
Shoe- a special device on the camera body for installing an external flash. The hot shoe has a sync contact for triggering the flash, thanks to which the flash fires simultaneously with the shutter.
Bayonet- from the French “bayonet” - the interface between the lens (lens) and the body/body (body) of the camera. Before the bayonet mount, threads (of two types) were used, which have been preserved in some cameras to this day. A bayonet has many advantages compared to a thread, the main ones being the ability to quickly replace optics and more precise lens installation (a bayonet, unlike a thread, has a fixed position), as well as the convenience of transferring information from the body to the lens.
Bracketing- this is an automatic burst shooting mode in which each frame is shot with different exposure values shifted relative to each other (with different shutter speeds and apertures), with underexposure and overexposure. This mode is usually used in difficult lighting conditions when it is difficult to accurately determine the required aperture and shutter speed.
Shutter speed, shutter speed: The time that light is exposed to a photographic material or sensor. Standard shutter speed range 1/2000, 1/1000, 1/500, 1/250, 1/125, 1/60, 1/30, 1/15, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 1, 2 seconds, etc. Short shutter speeds allow you to “freeze” moving objects, while long shutter speeds allow you to “blur” them.
Depth of field: the distance between the closest and farthest objects that will be sharp at a given aperture.
Aperture: lens opening, variable with movable petals. Each aperture value corresponds to an f number, which is determined by the ratio of the hole diameter to the focal length of the lens. How larger number f, the smaller the lens opening. Therefore, f 8 means that the size of the aperture is equal to one-eighth of the focal length of the given lens. In creative terms, the aperture size regulates the depth of field. The lower the f-number, the shallower the depth of sharply depicted objects.
Infrared illumination- built-in infrared emitter that provides illumination when shooting in the dark to enable the autofocus system to operate in low light conditions.
Macro photography- shooting small objects or details in on a large scale(from 1:5 to 1:20).
Maximum film speed (ISO) (100 to 10000)- the maximum value of the film sensitivity used in this camera. Depending on the camera model, the film sensitivity setting can be mechanical or automatic. Mechanical involves the presence of a switch, which the owner of the camera manually sets to the desired position. During automatic installation, the camera itself recognizes the film sensitivity based on the codes printed on the film cassette.
Minimum film speed (ISO) (20 to 200)- the minimum value of the film sensitivity used in this camera. Each camera is designed to use films of a certain sensitivity, which is indicated in its technical characteristics.
Minimum focusing distance. The distance to the subject should not be less than the minimum focusing distance, otherwise the image will be blurry. Minimum focusing distance, i.e. the smallest possible distance to the subject being photographed is determined by the characteristics of the lens used.
Shutter priority- shooting in which the shutter speed is set manually, and the aperture is adjusted automatically (based on metering).
Aperture priority- shooting in which the aperture is set manually, and the shutter speed is adjusted automatically (based on metering).
Manual mode- shooting in which shutter speed and aperture are manually set.
Light sensitivity (film speed): the value of the photosensitivity of a material, expressed as a number. Since 1974, after the merger of the American standard ASA (number scale) and the German DIN (degree scale), the international standardization organization has approved the ISO standard.
Synchro contact- a special connector for connecting an external flash. This terminal allows you to connect a non-standard flash that is not compatible with the camera's hot shoe. The sync contact is often used to connect an external stationary flash when shooting in a studio environment.
Image Stabilizer allows you to compensate for hand shake when shooting photos and videos and get a clearer, shake-free image. There are two types of image stabilizers: optical and digital.
Viewfinder type (optical, electronic, mirror). An optical viewfinder is an optical system of lenses in a camera, through which the camera is aimed at the subject and the boundaries of the image for future photography are determined. The optical viewfinder has a number of disadvantages: due to the mismatch between the optical axis of the viewfinder and the optical axis of the lens, the photographer through the eyepiece does not see exactly what appears on the film. This effect is called parallax. In addition, the optical viewfinder does not cover the entire resulting image, but only 80-90% of it. The photographer has no way to check the focusing accuracy. The electronic viewfinder is a miniature LCD screen with a lens (eyepiece) installed inside the camera. The electronic viewfinder screen displays the future frame as it is “seen” by the photosensitive matrix through the camera lens. With a mirror viewfinder, the image is captured directly through the camera lens using a folding mirror. Cameras with a reflex viewfinder do not have parallax. The photographer can control the accuracy of focus and depth of field.
Flash meter- a device with a photosensitive element that measures the intensity of light reflected from an object or incident on it when illuminated by pulsed light sources (photo flashes). Used as a tool to help you select the correct exposure.
Focal length is the distance from the optical center of the lens to its focal plane. The focal length determines the camera's viewing angle: the shorter it is, the larger the viewing angle. To make it possible to compare viewing angles between cameras with different sized photosensitive elements, the equivalent focal length for 35mm film is usually indicated. The equivalent focal length is to the true focal length in the same way that the diagonal of a 35mm film frame is to the diagonal of a camera sensor.
Film Latitude- the range of brightness that is linearly transmitted on film. The width of the film depends most on its type. In the case of black and white film, latitude is highly dependent on exposure and development conditions.
Exposition- the total amount of light falling on photographic film or other photosensitive material during the opening of the camera shutter. The amount of light entering depends on the aperture, shutter speed and the degree of illumination of the subject.
Light meter- a device with a photosensitive element that measures the intensity of light reflected from or incident on an object. Used as a tool to help you select the correct exposure. Same as light meter.
Exposure compensation- the ability to introduce exposure compensation. That is, all frames will be shot with underexposure or overexposure; this is necessary for shooting in automatic modes in difficult lighting conditions. The correction size is specified in EV.
Exposure bracketing- the ability to take several (usually three) frames with different exposures. In the case of three-frame bracketing - one with underexposure, one with overexposure, the third exactly. Used in difficult lighting conditions.
Red eye effect. "Red Eyes"- a phenomenon when photographing with a flash, when a bright red color appears in the central part of the eye in the picture in color photography and white in black and white. This effect occurs due to reflection from the fundus of the red part of the spectrum of light entering the wide-open pupil (through the pupil, the flash light enters the fundus of the eye, where it is partially absorbed, and the unabsorbed red part of the spectrum is reflected outward through the pupil).
(lang: ‘ru’)
Visiting different photography sites, I thought that various concepts and terms in photography, which may not always be known and understandable to the amateur photographer. To fill these gaps, I present the basic concepts.
The first and most basic thing in photography (after all, painting with light is “light painting”) – concept exposition.
Photo exposition.
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The exposure area is different for each photosensitive material, which is adequately conveyed in the resulting image. Those. the brightness ratio of the object is conveyed proportionally (the brighter part of the object is displayed brighter, the darker part is displayed exactly the same amount darker in the image). How more material, the greater the range of object brightnesses it can convey without distortion. Or, if the brightness interval of the object is less than the photographic latitude, when photographing it can change within certain limits without deteriorating the image quality. There is a separate one about this.
The concept of photographic exposure includes the following basic photography concepts, like .
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A special device built into the lens, consisting of lamellas, which regulates the diameter of the lens entrance hole, thereby limiting the light beam hitting the photosensitive sensor, thereby regulating the amount of light. It is measured by the ratio of the entrance hole diameter to the focal length of the lens. It is indicated by the value of the denominator of the indicated ratio 1/5.6 - this is 5.6, therefore, the larger the aperture value, the smaller the diameter of the entrance hole, i.e. 11 is less than aperture 8. The aperture value affects the depth of field of the imaged space or. There is a separate section on the connection with the diaphragm. And for digital cameras, it also plays a role. There is also a separate one about this.
Behind the lens, the aperture blades are visible, covering the hole.
Schematic representation of the iris diaphragm.
Lens aperture.
The maximum aperture value for a given lens (i.e., when the entrance hole is largest) is called lens aperture, usually denoted by the ratio of focal length to maximum value aperture f/3.3; f/5.6.
The greater the lens aperture, the more It transmits light when the entrance hole is completely open, the shorter the shutter speed you can shoot with, the less when the aperture is open (which is important, for example, when photographing a portrait). Therefore, fast lenses are usually prized by photographers.
Read more about lens aperture.
Photographer's Dictionary
A collection of photographic terms and expressions with explanations, interpretations or translation into Russian
Self-timer or timer - a device that allows the shutter to fire with a delay, usually 12 seconds. This makes it possible to take a photo of yourself - with your family, with friends, or against a background you like.
Autofocus is a device that automatically focuses the lens. There are “passive” and “active” autofocus. "Active" autofocus, which is based on infrared or ultrasonic radiation, can work in complete darkness, but it is more energy-intensive and expensive. More often, point-and-shoot cameras use “passive” autofocus, which analyzes the contrast of the object (maximum contrast is achieved with a sharp image).
A flare is a bright spot of light on a dark background. Usually occurs on polished and mirror surfaces. In photographic lenses, flare can occur when photographing against the light. Overlapping the image degrades the quality of the photo.
Compositional balance is the spatial arrangement of color elements, light and dark areas, as well as large and small objects in the image, ensuring harmony or balance of the composition.
The developing tank is a light-proof container for developing film.
A lens hood is a device in the form of a hollow truncated cone or a truncated pyramid made of plastic, which is placed on the camera lens. The lens hood prevents light rays that are not involved in the formation of the image from entering the lens, preventing glare from appearing in the image. The size of the hood is determined by the characteristics of the lens. Errors when choosing a hood can lead to image vignetting (shading of the peripheral areas of the image).
Side illumination - light falling on an object in a direction perpendicular to the lens-object direction; creates shadows and lights that give relief to the object (modeling light).
Viewfinder is a camera device for observing the subject and determining the boundaries of the image frame. In expensive devices it is combined with a focusing system.
Shutter speed is the period of time during which the camera shutter opens and the light flux passing through the lens passes through the lens to the film. Measured in seconds - 1, 2, 4 seconds. or its fractions, designated as a fraction: 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/500, 1/1000 sec and so on. In everyday speech, only the denominator of a fraction is usually called. The larger the denominator, the shorter the shutter speed and vice versa.
Interchangeability. According to this law, for any film with a given speed, a long shutter speed at a small relative aperture is equivalent to a fast shutter speed at a large relative aperture. For details, see the article “The Law of Reciprocity, or the Bunsen-Roscoe Law.” Most photographic films are designed to be exposed using a range of shutter speeds from 1/15 to 1/1000 sec. If the exposure time is outside this range, the film's performance may change. This usually results in a decrease in the film's actual light sensitivity, a change in contrast, and (in the case of color films) a change in color rendition. These changes are caused by violations or deviations from the law of reciprocity.
Vignetting is darkening the edges of an image in a photograph or slide. May be caused by poor lens design, using a hood that is not suitable for the lens, or installing multiple filters on the outer barrel of the lens.
Flash is a short-term intense pulse of light generated by a flash lamp or electronic flash, used to illuminate a scene with insufficient illumination for photography.
Selective focusing - selecting an aperture value that provides a shallow depth of field. This method is used to highlight the main object against the background of background elements due to the fact that the image of background details is blurred.
Hyperfocal distance is the distance from the camera to the nearest sharply imaged object when the lens is focused at infinity.
Depth of Field - measured in meters (from and to) the range of sharply depicted space. Objects outside this range will appear out of focus. The depth of field depends on the set aperture: the further the aperture is closed, the greater the depth of field and vice versa. The smallest depth of field is with the aperture fully open. Depth of field also depends on the focal length of the lens. A short throw lens gives greater depth of field.
Color depth reflects the bit depth of the analog-to-digital converter, that is, it is a characteristic that shows how accurate the color information is for each point of the scanned image.
A hot shoe is a special clip on a camera designed to mount a portable electronic flash. Equipped with electrical contacts that correspond to the contacts on the flash shoe and ensure that the flash turns on when the shutter-release button is pressed. Direct electrical contact between the flash and the camera eliminates the need for a sync cord.
Rangefinder is a device included in many cameras as a means of determining the distance to an object and focusing.
Double exposure is two images taken on the same frame of film, or two images printed on the same sheet of photographic paper.
Densitometer - an instrument used to measure the optical density of an area of a negative or paper print. Used for precise adjustment of minilabs.
Negative Holder - a device designed to fix the position of the negative in the enlarger during the printing process or in the scanner.
Aperture is a device that limits the passage of light through the lens (the lens opening is adjusted). The amount of luminous flux is characterized by an aperture number of 1.4; 2; 2.8; 4; 5.6; 8; 11; 16; 22; 32. Adjacent values differ by a factor of 1.41, while the luminous flux differs by a factor of 2. The larger the aperture number, the less light hits the film and vice versa. The aperture number at which the maximum amount of light passes through the lens is called lens aperture.
Focus Range - the range within which the camera is able to focus the image of the selected object. For example, from 1.2 m to infinity.
The aperture number "f" is a number indicating the size of the aperture opening of a manual camera lens. f values - f/1.4; f/2; f/2.8; f/4; f/5.6; f/8; f/11; f/16 and f/22. The larger the f-number, the smaller the lens opening. In this series, f/1.4 corresponds to the largest lens aperture, and f/22 corresponds to the smallest. These numbers are also called aperture stops. Combined with shutter speeds, these are the exposure parameters.
Dynamic range, also known as density range, indicates the range of tones in the original that a scanner can discern, from completely transparent to completely opaque. The range of densities is measured on a logarithmic scale from 0.0 to 4.0. If your scanner has a density range of 3.0, and the slide you are scanning has a maximum density of 3.3, then details in colors above 3.0 will likely appear black.
Long exposure is a long exposure, the duration of which is determined in seconds or minutes. Allows you to take night pictures.
Natural lighting - 1) light illuminating an object at the moment. Natural illumination of the object without the participation of the photographer. 2) Natural light. Strictly speaking, natural lighting is light emitted or reflected from any sources - from the moon to the sun. When applied to photography, natural light is the light that is currently illuminating the scene being photographed. Natural light can come from indoor lights, fluorescent lights, neon lights, candles, daylight from windows, outdoor twilight light, or moonlight.
Natural photographs are photographs of people, most often taken without the subject being aware that they are being photographed. These photographs tend to be more spontaneous than those in which people pose in front of the lens.
LCD panel - the liquid crystal display located on the top panel of the camera displays information about the number of remaining frames, the status and operating mode of the flash, and the selected frame format.
Fill light is additional light from a lamp, flash, or reflector used to soften (brighten) shadows or dark areas of an image created by a very bright key light. If a flash is used to create this light, the mode is called fill-in flash.
Flare is a darkening of the negative and photograph or discoloration of a color slide due to the following factors:
1. exposure to extraneous light on the photographic emulsion;
2. interaction of atmospheric oxygen with photographic emulsion during development;
3. re-manifestation;
4. using film or photographic paper after the expiration date;
5. storing film and/or photographic paper in conditions of high temperature and humidity.
Shutter - plates, curtain or other moving partition that controls the light flux entering the film.
Shading is the blocking of part of the light beam from the enlarger during exposure of photographic paper in order to highlight certain areas of the image.
A reflex camera is a camera in which the scene being photographed is observed through the shooting lens.
Grain is a discrete or granular structure that appears on a negative, photograph or slide. As the film speed and magnification increase, the grain increases.
The golden ratio is one of the most important rules of composition. The most important element of the image is located at a distance of approximately 1/3 of the height or width of the frame from its border. See the chapter "Rules of Composition" for more details.
Zoom is a photographic lens that allows you to smoothly change the focal length within certain limits, as if bringing the subject closer or further away. In fact, such a lens replaces several lenses at the same time.
Exposure Metering - General (Evaluative) - the meter reads light readings from all sensors and compares the results with a database based on the study of a large number of tested frame compositions. Spot - exposure metering estimates the illumination in a small area in the center of the frame. Center-Weighted - somewhat similar to general, i.e. information about illumination is collected from all sensors, but the advantage in determining exposure is given to the central group. Matrix (segment, cellular) metering is a complex exposure metering system that uses a multi-segment sensor.
An index print (Photo File Index Print) is a small-format print that contains miniature positive images of each frame of film provided with numbers. Such a print makes it easier to find the desired frame and place an order for the production of additional prints of the selected frames.
Cropping is the choice of the boundaries and format of the image available on the negative or slide. It is used, as a rule, to obtain a more visually harmonious image. May also refer to the process of placing objects in the viewfinder's field of view.
Framing frame - a device for holding photographic paper in a straightened (flat) state during exposure. Usually equipped with movable metal rulers for framing (limiting the boundaries of the exposed part of the frame).
A cassette is a light-proof cylindrical device in which film is placed. Installation and removal of the cassette from the camera is carried out in the light.
Composition is the harmonious placement of objects in the scene being photographed, in which the main object, foreground and background elements are arranged in accordance with the requirements of visual harmony.
Condenser Enlarger - An enlarger in which the negative is illuminated with hard, undiffused light, producing a high-contrast and very sharp image on the print. Any scratches or imperfections on the surface of the negative will be enhanced by this lighting.
A condenser enlarger with a diffuse tube is a photographic enlarger that combines diffuse lighting with a condenser system. Provides higher-contrast images with sharper detail than a diffuse-illuminator enlarger, but less contrast than a condenser enlarger.
Contact printing is a print obtained by exposing photographic paper to which the negative is pressed closely. The image on such a print is the same size as on the negative.
Contrast - the range of changes in the optical density of light and dark areas of the image of a negative, paper print or slide; the range of changes in the brightness of the object or scene being photographed.
Backlighting is light that illuminates an object from the side opposite to the lens and directed towards it. This makes the subject stand out from the background. If the backlight is very bright, only the outline of the object or silhouette is visible.
A macro lens is a lens that allows photography at distances ranging from infinity to several centimeters. This lens allows you to take images at a scale of 1:2 (half life size) or 1:1 (life size).
Macro photography
Macro photography is an operating mode that allows you to take close-up shots of very small objects.
A minilab is a color photo printing machine installed in a store that provides developing and color printing services to amateur photographers.
A monopod is a type of tripod with one fulcrum (leg). This tripod is convenient when used with long-focus lenses - it almost does not limit mobility, is insensitive to surface unevenness, but, at the same time, allows you to take high-quality photographs with ultra-long-focus lenses.
Motor drive - a mechanism for moving the film to the next frame and cocking the shutter, driven by an electric motor powered by a battery. Widely used for recording continuous processes on film by frame-by-frame shooting at a given time interval, as well as for remote recording of images.
Soft lighting is lighting with low to moderate contrast. This lighting is implemented on a cloudy day.
A soft-focus lens is a shooting lens that creates an optical image of an object with reduced contrast (as if softened in contrast) without sharply defined details.
An attachment lens for macro photography is a special positive lens that is screwed onto the outer edge of the lens frame for photographing from distances shorter than those specified in the instructions for a standard lens.
Saturation is one of the characteristics of objective visual perception of color. Determines the degree of expression of a color tone and is usually associated with the amount of dye in the solution or on the painted surface. Measured as a percentage. Saturation is characterized by such definitions as “vivid”, “strong” or “deep”. Unsaturated colors are described as dull, weak, or washed out.
Non-actinic (safe) lighting is lighting that is safe for photographic emulsion using a darkroom lamp equipped with a protective filter.
Negative - most often this is the name for developed photographic film, ready for printing photographs from it. The image on it is the opposite in brightness and color.
Underexposure is a condition in which insufficient light reaches the film. The result is a "thin", transparent negative, a dark slide or a dirty gray print.
A normal lens is a lens that allows you to obtain an image in a photograph with a perspective close to how the human eye perceives it. The focal length of a normal (standard) lens is less than the focal length of a long-focus or telephoto lens and longer than the focal length of a wide-angle lens.
Lens - one or more lens elements made of special optical glass or plastic, designed to form a sharp image on photographic film, photographic paper or on projection screens.
An anti-reflective coated lens is a lens in which the surface of the outer lens element is coated with several layers of transparent material. The thickness of each of these layers is a fraction of the wavelength of the incident light. The presence of such a coating ("anti-reflective") reduces the reflectivity of the lens, allowing more light to reach the film. A lens with an anti-reflection coating has a higher aperture ratio than a lens without an anti-reflection coating.
A fixed focal length lens is a lens that is focused at a specific distance at the factory. When taking photographs, such a lens, taking into account its depth of field, provides normal photography without focusing. see "focus free".
Orthochromatic is a term meaning that the film is sensitive to the blue and green regions of the spectrum.
Brightener - a chemical that neutralizes the hyposulfite in the emulsion of film or photographic paper and produces an image that is more stable under environmental influences.
Bounce flash lighting is light from a flash or lamp that is bounced off a surface (such as a ceiling or walls) to provide a natural lighting effect.
Incandescent lighting - light from conventional incandescent lamps with a tungsten filament. Different from the light fluorescent lamps in that the maximum radiation is shifted towards the yellow part of the visible spectrum, while the maximum radiation from fluorescent lamps is shifted towards the blue-blue part of the spectrum. To shoot in such lighting, you must use special film for incandescent lamps.
A print is a positive image, usually printed from a negative on paper.
Reflector, reflector - any device used to reflect light towards an object.
Panorama is a photograph taken from a wide angle, such as a landscape or a large group of people.
Panchromatic is a characteristic of films capable of recording color in the entire range of the visible spectrum as the human eye perceives it, i.e. with the same relative brightness ratio as the photographed object.
Parallax - Parallax is the phenomenon of discrepancy between the boundaries of the image field observed in the viewfinder window and the boundaries of the frame on the film. This phenomenon is most noticeable when shooting at close distances. The cause of parallactic displacement is due to the spatial separation of the optical axes of the shooting lens and viewfinder. Single-lens reflex cameras do not have parallax, since the image of the subject in the viewfinder field of view is formed through the shooting lens.
Foreground is the space between the camera and the main subject, objects located in the picture are closer than the main subject.
Stirring is the process of maintaining uniform movement of liquid in baths of developer, stop solution or fixer when processing film or photographic paper. Stirring helps speed up the processing of photographic materials, uniform development and prevent the appearance of foreign stains and other defects on the surface.
Overexposure is a condition in which too much light enters the film, causing the negative to become denser and causing the slide or photograph to become too light.
Punch holes, perforations - rectangular holes located at equal distances from each other along both edges of 35 mm film. They are used to transport film in the camera.
Back of Photo Print - Information printed on the back of a photo produced in a darkroom. Typically, the back of a photograph taken from 35mm film is marked with the frame number and color correction information. On the reverse side of the print obtained from APS film, the frame number, cassette number and processing date are printed; Additionally, information such as text taken by the photographer and the date of shooting may be included.
The CCD, a photosensitive, postage stamp-sized semiconductor crystal called a charge-coupled device (CCD), acts as a replacement for photographic film in digital cameras and serves to convert the perceived image into pixels (picture elements). CCDs are also used in scanners, fax machines and video cameras. CCDs contain hundreds of thousands or even millions of resistors, or sampling elements. The more cell elements in a CCD, the higher the resolution and image quality. When the camera shutter is opened, light hitting the CCD cells creates an electrical charge; the more light, the more current. No charge is formed in dark places. To obtain a color image, it is passed through a multilayer set containing red, blue and green filters. The light then hits the CCD pixels, which are sensitive to red, blue or green. This combination of pixels creates a full-color image.
Film is a material for recording images, which is a flexible transparent base coated with photographic emulsion.
Flat lighting is lighting that creates a low-contrast image of an object with a minimum of shadows.
Density - the degree of blackening of an area of a negative or paper print, characterized by the amount of light passed through the negative (slide) or reflected from the paper print. Sometimes used to describe the degree of contrast in an image (images with sharply varying densities are called high-contrast).
Positive - Unlike negative, the reproduction of tones in positive exactly matches the distribution of tones of the real object. An example of a positive image would be a photograph and a slide. A positive photographic image on film viewed against the light or projected onto a screen using a projector.
Contrast index - numerical numbers (usually in the range 1-5) and names characterizing the degree of contrast of photo paper. Based on contrast, photo papers are divided into soft, moderate, hard, extra-hard and ultrahard. This variety of photo paper types ensures high-quality prints from negatives of varying degrees of contrast. If the negative is very contrasty, then it is recommended to use photo papers with low contrast values. In this case, the image on the print will be closest to the real one. To obtain prints with normal contrast, low-contrast negatives must be printed on high-contrast types of photographic paper.
A polarizing filter is a filter that transmits light polarized in one plane and absorbs light polarized in other planes. When installing such a filter on a camera lens or light source, you can eliminate unwanted reflections from objects such as water surface, glass, etc. If the sun is on the side when shooting, then the sky when using such a filter turns out to be dark.
A portrait is an image of a specific, specific person or group of people. A necessary requirement for any portrait is to convey the individual likeness of a person. But the similarities should not be understood narrowly. It is not limited to just copying external features. Reproducing the individual appearance of a person, the photographer must strive to reveal his inner world, the essence of his character. Using the art of photography, he must create an image of the person being depicted.
Contact printer is a device used for contact printing. It is a light-proof box with a light source located in it and a frame for printing. Photo paper with the negative pressed to it is inserted into the frame. The light falls on the photographic paper from the negative side.
Shutter/aperture priority is a mode in which the shutter speed/aperture is set manually, and accordingly the aperture/shutter speed is selected automatically by the camera. When the shutter speed/aperture or lighting conditions change, the aperture/shutter speed automatically changes.
Darkening is the additional exposure of individual areas of the image during the printing process in order to increase their density. It is carried out by deliberately shading the light areas of the image at the moment the photographic paper is exposed to a beam of light from an enlarger. To do this, you can use masks in the form of pieces of cardboard, cut to the shape of the image that requires shading. Shading can be done simply by hand.
Program exposure setting mode is a mode for determining exposure in an automatic or autofocus camera. Allows you to automatically set the aperture and shutter speed to properly expose the film.
Developer is a chemical solution in which the invisible (latent) image on exposed film or photographic paper is converted into visible.
Spots are discolored areas on film or photographic paper, the appearance of which is caused by contamination of the developer solution, insufficient fixing, washing or stirring.
Good day everyone! Timur Mustaev is in touch with you. I, too, was once a beginner in this wonderful business of photography. I had to go through a lot, study a lot of material, necessary and unnecessary, and accordingly spend months of practice before getting good results. But it will be much easier for you if you carefully read all my articles on the blog. In which I explain in great detail and in simple language all the intricacies of photography.
Dear readers, in my article I am addressing newcomers specifically. Well, it’s time to dot the i’s and start understanding your own expensive toy – your camera! I will try to cover all the necessary basics of photography for beginners in an accessible and fairly brief manner. Professionals, don't go too far! After all, it never hurts to remind yourself of the main technical aspects of photography; they will be discussed below.
Terminology
There are several key concepts that you cannot do without when working with photography. These are aperture, shutter speed and light sensitivity (ISO) - all three the most important parameters are aimed at working with light, that is, they determine the entire exposure. In turn, we can say about a photograph that it is either under- or overexposed, as well as normally exposed. This is precisely related to the selected parameters during the photographing process and means that the resulting image is, accordingly, too dark, overexposed or normally lit. Now let's look at everything in more detail.
- The aperture may look different in appearance, depending on the lens model. Once upon a time it consisted of a rotating disk and holes in it, and which consisted of simple sets of plates. Now, a modern lens consists of a so-called iris diaphragm - a partition consisting of several thin blades (3, 5, 7, etc.). In this form this mechanism has tangible advantages: easy to adjust, small and compact, but still the design is quite fragile.
- Excerpt. The shutter, or curtains, in the camera are responsible for this parameter, and it determines the time the light hits the matrix or film. There are several types of shutters. For example, the old Zenit cameras had a curtain-slot shutter. It must be said that it was quite slow, which is why it had fewer capabilities, but at the same time it could be easily repaired. Also, in principle, there is nothing to break in point-and-shoot cameras, where the shutter is central, similar to a blade diaphragm. Already in digital SLR cameras Nikon and Canon manufacturers have switched to a lamella shutter, or a shutter made of three plates. Thanks to it, you can set both long and very short shutter speeds.
- Photosensitivity. You can guess from the name that this is the sensitivity of the camera matrix or film to light. In general, this sensitivity is set initially, and it can only be changed using a special signal amplifier located inside the camera. It is this that allows you to make the photo lighter if the ISO is increased to 200, 400 or more, so that you can shoot in poorly lit conditions. There is one problem with this process: the higher the ISO, the more likely it is that “noise” will appear in the image, that is, grains that spoil the quality of the frame.
Separately about color
Light in photography is everything; photography is translated as “light painting”. Pay maximum attention to this moment in the photograph. At the same time, we cannot ignore the issue of color. Everyone wants bright, rich and realistic photos? I have no doubt that yes. When talking about image tones, we need to introduce a new term - white balance. This is another camera setting that aims to convey different color characteristics of perceived light in photographs. That is, this is the whole spectrum of colors and their combinations. Usually they talk about warm (red, orange, yellow), cold (green, blue) shades of a photo, as well as neutral and pastel ones.
A lens is a “smart” optical device; it is capable of measuring and calculating the number of light rays in a certain area, and then determining all the colors and shades in the picture. But he may not always cope with his functions perfectly. Therefore, he needs to help - shoot not only in auto white balance mode, but also independently assess what the weather is like outside, whether it’s cloudy, perhaps sunny, or maybe add a little red, etc. Remember that white should be white in your photos too. Keep an eye on this and, if necessary, set the correct white balance through the camera menu. You can also use color filters to adjust the color effect.
Basic modes
Of course, as a priority, it is advisable to learn how to shoot in manual mode (M) - one in which the photographer sets all the exposure parameters independently. But while you are just learning, I do not recommend you use this mode! Everything has its time. Also, there are other modes of camera operation, when at most you only need to control one shooting parameter, and the camera will take care of the rest. In addition to the manual mode, there is aperture priority (A or Av), shutter priority (S or Tv), semi-automatic (P), where you only need to determine ISO. And, in fact, for the really “lazy” there are creative modes that you select to suit the shooting situation, be it landscape, portrait, etc.
Camera Specifications
No camera is complete without a sensor device. In digital devices, this is a matrix - a device with photosensitive cells that react to light, and in film devices - a flexible tape (film) on which a special material is applied. It is worth noting that digital has a number of advantages over film. And most importantly, the ability to view the image immediately and then carefully process it. The peculiarity of film is that it not only registers a photo, like a matrix, but stores it.
In addition to the sensor, any camera includes a whole set of main and additional components and mechanisms, without which its operation is impossible. Knowing the camera from the inside will not only broaden your horizons, but also enrich your knowledge specifically about the specifics of photography. And this hasn’t hurt anyone, because the more you know about the structure of your equipment, the more efficiently you can work with it!
Let's look at the most important technical characteristics of the camera.
- Focal length. Not to be confused with the distance from the photographer to the subject! This is a completely different distance of just a few millimeters, and it is measured from the center of the lens to the matrix. Typically, this value is written on the lens barrel itself, for example, 50 mm. It is believed that in terms of focal length, lenses are wide-angle, that is, covering a large viewing angle of the surrounding view, normal and long-focal. The latter are capable of bringing distant objects closer, increasing their scale. They are also called zoom lenses.
- Aperture is a camera property that means its ability to convey the brightness of a picture. It also has a designation on the lens, for example, 1:1.8. This is a very important indicator, which determines the ability to photograph in low light conditions, and, in fact, the price of the optics.
- Depth of field (DOF) is the area of space in a photograph in which objects (animals, people) appear clear and sharp. This depth of field can be small or large: either some part of the overall picture, or all objects in the frame will be in the zone of sharpness, that is, clearly visible. To adjust the depth of field, you can change the aperture or focal length: the depth decreases when the aperture is open and great importance F.
What are these black dots?
Dear newbie, if you look through your viewfinder, you will see some dark marks there. Don't even think about it, it's not trash! These are just focal points. By the way, a very significant element in the camera. Thanks to these points, the camera is able to automatically focus on an object or several objects in the field of view. You can also adjust the focus using the settings and select each time a specific point in a certain part of the frame where it is located.
Let's say the main subject or character of your photo is slightly off-center, and you decided to photograph it that way. So that it is not blurred, and instead of it there is something completely unnecessary in the foreground, you can simply choose the main point that suits you best from the available ones. This focus point will usually flash red in the viewfinder during the adjustment process.
From personal experience
There was a time when I, too, was just beginning to master the art of photography and seriously wondered where to start? At first, my shooting was limited to turning on the camera, setting it to auto mode and pressing the shutter button... Think about it, to understand the basics of photography, you only needed to know three basic concepts! I can tell you with confidence that necessary information not much, and she's not scary at all. I hope in this article you were able to verify this.
My advice for young amateur photographers is to start in order. Familiarize yourself with the basic terms, understand what is where, and what it is responsible for. In practice, it is better to take one parameter, play with its value, and after mastering it, move on to the next one. So, for example, if you want to photograph people, then don’t bother with manual mode, select aperture priority, opening and closing it can sharpen just one person or an entire group. To capture movement, shutter priority mode will help: a long shutter speed will blur the movement, and a short shutter speed will seem to freeze it. Remember, composition and meaning in photography are very important, but without knowledge technical points, you could ruin a potentially perfect shot!
Important! Read your camera user manual in detail. Read it not once, but 3-4, or maybe more. This will help you a lot in your endeavor.
And finally, I want to recommend you a very good video course “ My first MIRROR" The author explains the basics of photography in great detail. So many useful tips and chips that you simply need.
My first MIRROR- for owners of a CANON DSLR.
Digital SLR for a beginner 2.0- for owners of a NIKON mirror.
Goodbye readers! Good luck to you on your path to mastering the complex and very exciting profession of photography. I would be glad if you start visiting my blog more often, as there are many more interesting, useful and exciting things waiting for you here. Here you will get everything necessary knowledge and information about various secrets and tricks of photography. So, subscribe to the news and stay updated!
All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.
