Well, it looks like another chronic disease was passed on from a progenitor. Yesterday, after intense beeping at a pedestrian crossing the road in the wrong place, the signal died. I started by checking the fuse - it was intact, the rest seemed to be intact too, but it didn’t sound like anything. I got to the computer today and went to the logan forum, after which it was decided to check whether the wire in the steering column switch itself had broken. So one wire broke off. It was decided to repair it on our own - just rewire the wire.
So, first I unscrewed the two Torx screws from the bottom, and pulled the upper part of the casing and removed it (besides the screws, it also sits on plastic, like clips)
Next, I disconnected the terminal block from the steering column switch
The image has been reduced. Click to see original.
and turning the steering wheel for convenience, unscrewed two screws using a Phillips screwdriver
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pulling in the direction of the door we take out the switch
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The image has been reduced. Click to see original.
view from the contact side
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Here's the culprit
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The image has been reduced. Click to see original.
Well, then both wires were soldered to others with soft insulation. The wires come from the factory wrapped once around the center core of the switch. I soldered directly to the factory soldering. I checked everything is spinning and nothing is jammed. Afterwards everything was put back together in reverse order.
P.S. I still disassembled the switch a little, but in principle I didn’t have to do this (I thought about getting the central pin of the switch, but didn’t risk it) here’s a photo:
I bought sound signals from a GAZ 3110 for 600-something rubles. I can’t say that the standard ones are completely weak, but I wanted to try to install a powerful sound signal from the Volga and compare...
I added a relay with a block (were in stock) to relieve the button, since both signals consume a current of 15A, but this is exactly the current for which the fuse of the standard signal F17 is designed, which is not a buzz.
Connection diagram (I honestly stole it from the Internet and redrew it to match the car’s diagram)…
The relay and fuse in the block were installed next to the fuse block in the passenger compartment using a surface-mounted method. It may not be pretty, but it’s cheap and cheerful. You can optionally attach the relay to the side of the unit.
The wire from pin 30 of the relay goes to the fuse and then to the thick red wire of the S9 bus. Contacts 85 and 87 go into the gap in the standard pink signal wire.
The red wire was soldered to the contact strip of fuses F28-F31 (the second red wire in the photo goes to the cigarette lighter socket in the trunk)…
In a good way, I need to find a disassembled fuse block, remove the contact strips from it and install there all the additional fuses that I have, but for now that’s it.
Without bothering, I ran the black ground wire from pin 86 of the relay to the screw securing the fuse box itself...
P.S. Subsequently, the fuse in the block was removed from the circuit and the wires were soldered so that the standard fuse F17 was used, but at 20A. The ground wire was pulled to the ground stud under the instrument panel... 
To replace the signals, remove the bumper...
Standard signals:
Low left...
...high tone on the right.
Standard signals are connected via a two-wire chip. But for Volgovskys only one wire is needed, the ground goes through the stud to the signal housing. At first I thought about cutting off the chip, but then I decided to simply strip the standard wire to connect a piece of wire from the new signal to it. A 6.3mm female connector with a chip was connected to this segment. While working, I noticed on the body, opposite the signal, an unused pin (ground) and then the idea came to my mind to leave the standard signals in parallel with the new ones! I found a rusty but suitable strip in the bins and attached it to a hairpin and an old signal...
On the right side I also installed a high-tone signal in parallel with the standard one. There the bracket is a little longer and has a long slot in the middle, thanks to which both signals can be installed on it
bending the bracket a little...
Now the signal sounds much more solid!!!
I took a video of the sound of the signals, but you can hardly hear the difference, the equipment does not convey the full range of sounds, alas...
Note: Horn part numbers
Depending on the configuration, Lada Largus can be equipped with either one or two sound signals of different tones. The sound signals are located behind the front bumper on the left and right. If the vehicle has only one signal, it is located on the right side (high tone). If there are two signals, then the one on the right is low-tone and the one on the left is high-tone.
High and low tone signals are marked differently. The high tone signal is indicated by the letter " N" (hight), and the low tone signal is represented by the letter " L"(low).
Removal
Set the car to workplace, apply the parking brake, turn off the ignition. Raise the hood, disconnect the ground wire terminal from battery(spanner "10").
Note: To remove the sound signals, you can either remove the front bumper (a little longer, but more convenient to work with), or remove only the front fender liners. To remove the bumper, in any case, you need to remove the fender liners, so you should start with them, and then decide in a particular case whether you will need to remove the bumper. Mounts on different cars may vary slightly. Practice shows that to remove the left signal, you need to remove the bumper along with the bracket, but for the right one, it is not necessary.
Remove the fender liners and front bumper ()
Disconnect connector 2, Figure 9-1, of the front wiring harness from the audio warning device.
1 - bolt for fastening the sound signal device;
2 - block of the front wiring harness to the audio signal device;
3 - sound signal device
Unscrew bolt 1 securing the sound signal device 3 to the car body (spanner “13”).
Remove the sound signal device assembled with the bar.
If necessary, unscrew the bracket nut and remove it from the signal.
Installation
Install the sound signal device in the reverse order of removal.
The tightening torque of the fastening bolt is 21 N.m (2.1 kgf.m) (replaceable head 13, extension, torque wrench).
Install the front bumper
Video
One day, the sound signal (horn) began to work every other time, a little later it was discovered that the operation and non- operation depended on the position of the headlight switch, and then the signal stopped working altogether. The Internet immediately suggested that this was a childhood sore.
I won’t describe in detail how to remove the steering column cover, I’ll just tell you that you need a Torx screwdriver, I don’t remember what size and long enough. It turned out to be very difficult to get a screwdriver into the “star” of the screw, because it is located quite deep and at some unnatural angle that you don’t expect and poke somewhere past.
After removing the casing, turn the steering wheel in the “9 o’clock” direction and unscrew the two screws securing the left steering column switch. Disconnect the wire block.
We look at the switch block from the back and see this picture (almost like this, this photo was taken when everything was already fixed, we are interested in the red and black wires, mine was broken off)
(see photo below)
To be honest, I didn’t immediately figure out how the mechanism worked and soldered the broken wire to the fat solder point on the lever.
But after that I didn’t check how the headlight control modes switch. It turned out that the neighbor seemed to be not turned on, the soldered wiring prevented the switch from being turned completely until there was a clear click. Well, soon the signal disappeared again, and I had to climb again.
It turns out that when switching headlight modes, the inner rod to which the wires are connected rotates:
The image has been reduced. Click to see original.
The image has been reduced. Click to see original.
The image has been reduced. Click to see original.
Well, it’s clear - the wires experience cyclic bending loads, the more often you switch the headlights.
Now we disassemble the block to completely replace the wires (I changed both at once, without waiting for the second standard one to break).
Unscrew the two screws on the block cover
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Cover - to the side
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Carefully pull the lever upwards from the switch housing
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The image has been reduced. Click to see original.
Now you need to remove the rotating part from the lever, which actually switches the headlights.
We take a flat-head screwdriver, hold the lever into a fist, and act in the same way as many people open bottles - we rest the screwdriver, like a lever, against the base of the index finger, tighten the rotating part (it is held on the rod due to a tight fit)
The image has been reduced. Click to see original.
The image has been reduced. Click to see original.
The image has been reduced. Click to see original.
I also removed the horn button from the rotating part (it is held on by two latches)
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And it turned out that it was not in vain - one contact pad was burnt due to the fact that one contact on the rod was longer than the other. Well, and, of course, due to the fact that there is no relay in the sound signal control circuit, all the current passes through the button (a reason for thought for those who install more powerful signals)
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I cleaned the contact pad, did not grind the contact down - I tapped it, which caused it to flatten a little. Well, good - the contact area will be larger.
The image has been reduced. Click to see original.
The image has been reduced. Click to see original.
We pull the rod out of the lever, unsolder the wires from the switch block, unsolder the wires (or their “stubs”) from the rod.
We are looking for wires of suitable diameter, because they must fit into the holes on the rod. If they fit, take pieces of wires of the required length. I took longer ones than the standard ones (in the first photos, where, in fact, everything is already ready, you can see that their stock is clearly larger) in order to reduce the influence of the breaking moment.
We solder and wrap around the rod, placing it in the corresponding grooves and threading it through the corresponding holes.
Hello everyone, today I would like to talk about why the signal on a Lada Largus car does not work. Largus has a two-tone sound signal. There is also no signal relay, and both signals are connected when turned on through a fuse. If it suddenly happens that you press the signal, by the way, the button for turning on the sound signal on Largus is located on the steering column switch on the left, and you do not hear a sound, it means that something went wrong and the first thing you need to check is fuse F17 (15A).
If necessary, you need to replace the signal fuse, and if after replacement it blows out again, then you need to look for a place short circuit. After checking the fuse, if it turns out to be serviceable, then the cause should be looked for in the steering column switch.
In the steering column switch, the black wire at the base of the soldering tends to break off, and in this case you have two options: buy a new switch, which is not that cheap, or do soldering, provided you know how to do it. Also to possible malfunctions The sound signal of the Lada Largus car can also be attributed to the sound signals themselves. But the likelihood that both will refuse at once is very small.
Well, that’s all we have looked at the main reasons why the sound signal on a Lada Largus car does not work. Bye everyone.
