Double click of the mouse. Double mouse click

Instructions

If your computer is running Windows 7 or Vista, click on any window windows explorer the Organize menu, and then choose Folder and Search Options. The Folder Options dialog box appears.

Now all commands that previously had to be double-clicked to activate will be activated with one mouse click. For example, to open any file or run a program, it will be enough to click once on the icon.

If you are the owner of a mouse model that has additional buttons, you can configure one of them to activate commands with one click. To do this, you should use special software from the manufacturer of the mouse, with which you can configure additional buttons.

How will they open on the computer foldershow they themselves and the files they contain will be displayed - it all depends on which folder settings are selected. All the necessary parameters can be configured in the dialog box " Properties folders". To do this, you need to perform several steps.

Instructions

Open the window " Properties folders". This can be done in several ways. Open any folder from any directory on your computer. On the top menu bar, select Tools. In the drop-down menu, left-click on the line “ Properties folders", - the required dialog box will open. Another way: open "Control Panel" via the "Start" button. In the Appearance and Themes category, select the Properties folders". If the "Control Panel" has a classic look, the desired icon is available immediately.

In the window that opens, on the General tab, configure the settings for displaying and methods of opening folders on your computer. If in the "Tasks" section you have a marker in the "Display a list of typical tasks in folders" field, the scope of your open folders will be visually split in two. On the right side there will be icons of files contained in folders, on the left side - tasks that can be performed for these files (rename, copy, delete, and so on). Marker in the field "Use regular folders Windows ”means that the task field will be absent.

Hi, I have a Logitech mouse on my laptop, I started to involuntarily double-click the left button with one click. This is an abnormal phenomenon, nothing more than a problem that we will solve today.

There are two ways to resolve the situation, your solution may differ from mine, since our mice and systems are different with you, we do diagnostics!

There are two solutions, mechanical and software, now you will understand everything.

Problem

In this article, we solve the problem of an involuntary, double-click, which should not exist in principle. That is, we fix glitches and software violations, and possibly mechanically adjust the rodent ...

If you just want to change double-click to single, in order not to interfere with your parents sleeping, playing Chihara at night, this article is not about that \u003d)

Analysis

I came to the conclusion that my problem lies in the mouse itself, Windows itself prompted this, quite recently, I switched from 7 to 8.1 and the double-click problem remained.

As a conclusion, we can assume that the problem is in the mouse itself.

How to fix it mechanically, just below. Now, you need to think, do a little analysis.

Perhaps you changed the OS recently, but two. click left?

The same can be confirmed by removing the device drivers, reinstalling.

If you have a cool gaming device, then 100% of it comes with a disc with firewood.

Remove old drivers and reinstall, or better, visit the manufacturer's website and download the latest driver for your operating system. How to determine the real office. site and to distinguish it from a double read, (important!). But in this way we reinstall standard driver mouse in Windows: Start \u003d\u003e Control Panel \u003d\u003e Device Manager \u003d\u003e

We choose our mouse. Right-click on the context menu, "Properties". Driver tab, and uninstalling the driver Uninstall. Do not argue with everyone windows warnings, we agree. If everything is smooth, then the driver will be completely removed, after which the mouse will stop working. Now remove the connector and restart your computer, this is not necessary, but it certainly won't be superfluous.

Once the mouse is disabled, use the keyboard to restart the computer.

Press Start, using the arrows and the Tab key, select "Shutdown", and press Enter.

After rebooting, plug the mouse back into the connector, the system will automatically detect the device and reinstall the driver.

If the double click did not disappear anywhere, but just went to have tea and returned, we conclude that the solution is not in the provision, but in the device itself. And it needs to be edited for this: And so, take a chisel, a hammer, a file and act like this guy on one of the forums: \u003d), but seriously, let's look at how it's done.

Mechanical method

We disassemble the mouse by unscrewing a few bolts from the bottom, my problem was that, the deflection of the plate increased, changed to an indecent state in the micro switch of the left mouse button, the figure shows how to disassemble and fix this nuance:

With care and consistency:

1. Unscrew the screw
2. We take out the microcircuit
3. Disconnect power from the microcircuit
4. We bring the microcircuit to the light

5. We straighten the plate.
5.1. Detach this box with a knife.
5.2. With our hands we remove the plate, bend it almost to a flat state.
5.3. We install it back.
5.4. With scissors for clamping, hold the nutcracker and place it in the box.
5.5. With the same scissors, we take the entire structure by the nutcracker and insert the box back.
5.6. We snap it with our fingers, it clicked and that's it.

6. Connect the power cord back to the microcircuit.
7. Insert the microcircuit.
8. Tighten the screw (s).

The log of your actions may differ slightly from mine, since the constructions are different, but the essence does not change from this.

conclusions

As always, everything depends on the quality of workmanship, as a consequence of the cheapness of our choice.

Yes, and from the manufacturer, of course, for example, when buying his problematic Logitech mouse, the seller consultant simply fiddled ** that the company was simply a leader in a niche and that you simply couldn't find such a quality, at a price of 250 rubles. \u003d)

So, guys, I wish you fewer problems, and a good choice!

Did my advice help you? Still have questions?

Be sure to write in the comments, the topic is topical and perhaps my recommendations are not enough!

And also, do not forget to repost the article in your social networks, I will be pleased \u003d)

I've been using A4Tech mice for many years now, and every time I come across the same problem: mouse double-clickinstead of single. This happens so often that I decided to write a separate article.So how to remove a double click ?


Generally, a mouse can double-click for two reasons:
1. Mechanical wear of buttons.
2. Problems with Windows drivers or settings. I already wrote about such cases once in the article
.

1. We disassemble the mouse

In the first case "surgical" intervention can help. The mouse needs to be disassembled for this. As I already noted in the article, one screw is under the sticker, one is visible and several more may be under the legs. At least that's how it was in mine.

Most likely, disassembling, you will see a bunch of dust, debris and similar delights. You need to do cleaning, for this it is best to use a piece of lint-free cloth moistened with alcohol (if it is not there, ordinary vodka will do). After cleaning, if possible, remove the wheel so that it does not interfere with our further work.

2. Correcting the backlash of the buttons

In most cases the problem is in the backlash of the buttons... We take ordinary electrical tape and glue it, as in the picture. But don't stick too much - it will only get worse ... You can use unnecessary protective film from a smartphone or PDA - it is stronger and more durable.

In the end it will look something like this.


When the glue dries, collect the mouse back. We check if everything is fine now. If the button is tight or not pressed at all, you need to disassemble the mouse again and remove the extra layer of electrical tape.

3. Problem in button sensors


If even now the mouse double-clicks, then problem in button sensors. Now looking for left and right button sensors (they are on the board). Usually sensors are small rectangles with a button on top. Click on this button. If everything is normal, we hear the usual click of your X7 mouse. If the sensor is damaged or broken, then there are only two options:

1. Most mice have three sensors: left, right and middle - under the wheel. They are all exactly the same - it's easier for the manufacturer. And since the middle mouse button is not very necessary for most users, its sensor can be re-soldered in place of the damaged one. Alternatively, you can take an old unnecessary mouse and rewire a working sensor from there.

2. If you don't have an old mouse, it's a pity to sacrifice the middle button or you don't have the skills to work with a soldering iron, it's easier to buy a new mouse. Fortunately, they are now inexpensive.

This is how the sensors of the left and right button.


The second case is when mouse double-click instead of single due to Windows settings or driver problems, I consider in the article.

Related materials:

  • Tutorial
  • Recovery Mode

Once upon a time there was a mouse, and its name was Defender MM-525. She firmly pulled her mouse strap - she clicked on the links, scrolled the pages, moved the cursor. But once a misfortune happened - instead of one click, she began to make two, or even more. Sometimes you want to pause a video on YouTube - but instead it opens full screen. Or you select text - and at the last moment the selection is reset. It is clear that it could not continue this way.

What to do? The Internet offers the following options:

Above is power, below is ground, to the right is a wire to the processor input. And at the input it has a field-effect transistor gate. In our case, we can assume that this is simply the ideal voltage meter. The voltage is greater than the specified one, which means that the processor concludes, the input is one, and if it is less, then zero.

But if the input of the processor is ideal, then the switch cannot be considered as such with all due respect. When the switch closes, it means that one piece of metal is in contact with another piece of metal. But between the "off" and "on" states there is that awkward moment when these two pieces barely touch. And if now there is contact, then in a microsecond it can disappear and then recover again. And sometimes even one contact hits another and, according to Newton's laws, bounces off it, or even several times. What will the mother of the processor think? That's right - he will think that the switch was turned on, turned off, turned on, turned off, turned on, turned off, etc. Although "in fact" it was turned on only once. This phenomenon even has its own name - contact bounce.

Wait, doesn't it look like anything? Oh yes, a similar case just happened with our mouse! This means that our working hypothesis will be that the mouse developers either did not remember at all about the possibility of chatter, or their efforts to combat it were in vain. And we will have to fight this enemy for them.

Let's notice two things. First, our click speed is limited. It is unlikely that we will click on the mouse more than ten times per second. Secondly, the switches try to do so that the bounce moment passes as quickly as possible, and the mouse button will surely have time to calm down in one tenth of a second. Thus, our task comes down to separating high-frequency clicks from low-frequency ones, that is, we need a filter low frequencies... The easiest way to do this is to solder the capacitor:

This is what we're going to do.

Here it is - our button:

And this is it, but without a cover:

Let's sign the contact numbers for convenience:

The principle of operation is obvious - contacts 1 and 3 are closed at rest, when the button is pressed for a while, all contacts open, and then contacts 1 and 2. When released, the same happens in the reverse order.

We opened the button not in order to bend something, but in order to see firsthand how it works, and if we are lucky, then to look at the bounce. And the Samsung WB2000 camera and the I96U lens will help us with this. The aforementioned device can shoot video at 1000 frames per second. True, not so hot, but, as they say, what they are rich with.

Sophisticated setup for high-speed shooting:

And, in fact, the movie:

As you can see, the contact manages to fly the entire prescribed distance in five frames (that is, 5 milliseconds), and no visible bounce is observed. Perhaps bounce could be seen on the oscillogram, but, unfortunately, I remembered that I have an oscilloscope only when the mouse was already assembled. But one way or another, it is clear that the characteristic bounce time is clearly less than minimum time click, and that the border between them is approximately five milliseconds.

Lyrical digression. How would I make a mouse if I had a switch of the above design? And like this:

Cheap and cheerful. The processor input is not only an ideal voltmeter, it is also a capacitor for several picofarads. So in those milliseconds while one contact flies from the second to the third, the voltage will not have time to change noticeably, and when it arrives, the capacitor will charge, and even if the contact jumps, it will still not be able to discharge, so there will be no bounce. Well, except that only he will jump up to the opposite contact, but this, as we have seen, is an extremely unlikely situation.

But the valiant mouse designers, as we will now see, are not looking for easy ways.

Let's measure our switch with a multimeter. First, we find that none of the contacts are shorted to power. Anyway. At rest, on the second contact, 2.5 volts of power, on the rest - zero. In the pressed state, all contacts are zero. This suggests that the developers did not follow my path, and the second contact, apparently, serves as the processor input, and the third contact is not used at all. But the funny thing is that after pressing the button, zero on the second contact remains for another five seconds! Unfortunately, the mechanism of work and the benefits of such a solution and the motivation of developers remain a mystery to me. I hope some of the knowledgeable people will enlighten me.

Thus, our entire harmonious scheme of dealing with bounce breaks against a blank wall of misunderstanding of modern circuitry solutions. But, in fact, do not stop when the job is almost done. So we will solder without understanding.

We will solder the capacitor between pins 1 and 2. And to measure the effect, we will use a script like

Computer control with a mouse - based on the event mechanism. And the simplest technique is hovering the pointer. Often it allows you to open a submenu or, for example, get a tooltip with additional information.

Another close technique is the rillover. It consists in the fact that when the mouse pointer is held (moved) over a control, it changes shape. For example, the buttons are recessed and then pop up again; the counters are rotated one revolution, the drawings are animated ("come to life"). The Windows operating system itself does not use this technique, but it is used on Web pages on the Internet and in some programs. Sometimes it is useful to move the mouse over graphic illustrations to see something new, hidden from the surface view.

For example, double-click the My Computer window and the Trash window. In the window - My Computer, see how many disks are in the computer, and in the Trash window, see which documents and programs were previously deleted. If the Trash is empty, it means that someone has already emptied it :). Don't close open windows yet - they will be useful to us, but in the next article;).

P.S. I would like to remind you about the folder - My Documents - how do you approach it? Consumer or professional? Link to article:.

Today I will tell you how to remove a double mouse click. As I noted, computer mice can double-click for two main reasons:

1. Because ofmechanical faults ... I described such cases in the article .
2. Because of
windows settings either drivers the mouse itself.

In this article, I consider the second option.

1. Configuring the mouse parameters

Now I will tell you how to remove a double mouse click... Often the problem is solved through the Windows settings or the mouse driver itself. Therefore, first you need to look at Mouse Properties. You can find them in the Control Panel: Start -\u003e Control Panel -\u003e Mouse Properties... In the "Mouse Buttons" tab, check if sticking mouse... If so, we can safely turn it off. Also look at Double-Click Speed... As a standard, the speed is set there slightly above average. We are trying to adjust this parameter for ourselves.

This is how the mouse properties look in Windows 7. The figure shows the standard settings.

2. Setting we set the parameters of the dadto

If adjusting the mouse parameters did not help, go to Start -\u003e Control Panel -\u003e Folder Options... We look at the parameter "Mouse clicks". Put a tick next to "Double open and select with one click".

This is what the folder properties should look like.

3. Reinstall the mouse driver

How else can you remove double click? We proceed to the most radical method. Go toStart -\u003e Control Panel -\u003e Device Manager ... We are looking for our mouse there (usually in the section "Mice and other pointing devices"). Open the context menu with the right mouse button, where we select "Properties". Next, we find the "Driver" tab, where we select uninstall driver... We agree with all Windows warnings.

The easiest way to uninstall the mouse driver is here.

If everything is fine, then the driver will be completely removed, after which the mouse will no longer work. Now you can remove it and then restart your computer (this is not at all necessary, but still not superfluous). Since the mouse is disabled, you can use the keyboard to restart the computer. Press the Start button, then using the arrows and the Tab key select "Shutdown", then press Enter. Alternatively, you can simply click the appropriate button on system unit or keyboard.

After rebooting, plug the mouse back into the connector. Windows will detect it by itself and reinstall all drivers.

After that, the problem should go away. If the question still bothers you "how to remove double click" , then the problem is still in mechanical wear. For more details, see in article

Hi, I have a Logitech mouse on my laptop, I started to involuntarily double-click the left button with one click. This is an abnormal phenomenon, nothing more than a problem that we will solve today.

There are two ways to resolve the situation, your solution may differ from mine, since our mice and systems are different with you, we do diagnostics! There are two solutions, mechanical and software, now you will understand everything.

Problem

In this article, we solve the problem of an involuntary, double-click, which should not exist in principle. That is, we fix glitches and violations software, and possibly mechanically adjusting the rodent ...

If you just want to change double-click to single, in order not to interfere with your parents' sleep, By the way, on a note if you do not already know how to install android apps, Odnoklassniki, VKontakte, games and applications, read this post.

Analysis

I came to the conclusion that my problem lies in the mouse itself, Windows itself prompted this, quite recently, I switched from 7 to 8.1 and the double-click problem remained.

As a conclusion, we can assume that the problem is in the mouse itself.

How to fix it mechanically, just below. Now, you need to think, do a little analysis.

Perhaps you changed the OS recently, but two. click left?

The same can be confirmed by removing the device drivers, reinstalling.

If you have a cool gaming device, then 100% of it comes with a disc with firewood.

Remove old drivers and reinstall, or better, visit the manufacturer's website and download the latest driver for your operating system. How to determine the real office. site and to distinguish it from a double read, (important!).

But in this way we reinstall the standard mouse driver in Windows:
Start \u003d\u003e Control Panel \u003d\u003e Device Manager \u003d\u003e

We choose our mouse. Right-click the context menu, "Properties".

Driver tab, and uninstalling the driver Uninstall.

We do not argue with all Windows warnings, we agree.

If everything is smooth, then the driver will be completely removed, after which the mouse will stop working.

Now remove the connector and restart your computer, this is not necessary, but it certainly won't be superfluous.

Once the mouse is disabled, use the keyboard to restart the computer.

Press Start, using the arrows and the Tab key, select "Shutdown", and press Enter.

After rebooting, plug the mouse back into the connector, the system will automatically detect the device and reinstall the driver.

If the double-click did not disappear anywhere, but just went to have tea and returned, we conclude that the solution is not in providing, but in the device itself. And it needs to be edited for this:

And so, we take a chisel, a hammer, a file and act like this guy on one of the forums:

But seriously, let's look at how this is done.

Mechanical method

We disassemble the mouse by unscrewing a few bolts from the bottom, my problem was that, the deflection of the plate increased, changed to an indecent state in the micro switch of the left mouse button, the figure shows how to disassemble and fix this nuance:

With care and consistency:

1. Unscrew the screw
2. We take out the microcircuit
3. Disconnect power from the microcircuit
4. We bring the microcircuit to the light

5. We straighten the plate.
5.1. Detach this box with a knife.
5.2. With our hands we remove the plate, bend it almost to a flat state.
5.3. We install it back.
5.4. With scissors for clamping, hold the nutcracker and place it in the box.
5.5. With the same scissors, we take the entire structure by the nutcracker and insert the box back.
5.6. We snap it with our fingers, it clicked and that's it.

6. Connect the power cord back to the microcircuit.
7. Insert the microcircuit.
8. Tighten the screw (s).

The log of your actions may differ slightly from mine, since the constructions are different, but the essence does not change from this.

conclusions

As always, everything depends on the quality of workmanship, as a consequence of the cheapness of our choice.

Yes, and from the manufacturer, of course, for example, when buying his problematic Logitech mouse, the sales consultant simply said that the company was simply a leader in the niche and that you simply couldn't find such a quality, at a price of 250 rubles.

So, guys, I wish you fewer problems, and a good choice!

Did my advice help you? Still have questions?

Be sure to write in the comments, the topic is topical and perhaps my recommendations are not enough!

And also, do not forget to repost the article in your social networks, I will be pleased

Once upon a time there was a mouse, and its name was Defender MM-525. She firmly pulled her mouse strap - she clicked on the links, scrolled the pages, moved the cursor. But once a misfortune happened - instead of one click, she began to make two, or even more. Sometimes you want to pause a video on YouTube - but instead it opens full screen. Or you select text - and at the last moment the selection is reset. It is clear that it could not continue this way.


What to do? The Internet offers the following options:

Above is power, below is ground, to the right is a wire to the processor input. And at the input it has a field-effect transistor gate. In our case, we can assume that this is simply the ideal voltage meter. The voltage is greater than the specified one, which means that the processor concludes, the input is one, and if it is less, then zero.

But if the input of the processor is ideal, then the switch cannot be considered as such with all due respect. When the switch closes, it means that one piece of metal is in contact with another piece of metal. But between the "off" and "on" states there is that awkward moment when these two pieces barely touch. And if now there is contact, then in a microsecond it can disappear and then recover again. And sometimes even one contact hits another and, according to Newton's laws, bounces off it, or even several times. What will the mother of the processor think? That's right - he will think that the switch was turned on, turned off, turned on, turned off, turned on, turned off, etc. Although "in fact" it was turned on only once. This phenomenon even has its own name - contact bounce.

Wait, doesn't it look like anything? Oh yes, a similar case just happened with our mouse! This means that our working hypothesis will be that the mouse developers either did not remember at all about the possibility of chatter, or their efforts to combat it were in vain. And we will have to fight this enemy for them.

Let's notice two things. First, our click speed is limited. It is unlikely that we will click on the mouse more than ten times per second. Secondly, the switches try to do so that the bounce moment passes as quickly as possible, and the mouse button will surely have time to calm down in one tenth of a second. Thus, our task comes down to separating high-frequency clicks from low-frequency ones, that is, we need a low-pass filter. The simplest way do this - solder the capacitor:

This is what we're going to do.

Here it is - our button:

And this is it, but without a cover:

Let's sign the contact numbers for convenience:

The principle of operation is obvious - contacts 1 and 3 are closed at rest, when the button is pressed for a while, all contacts open, and then contacts 1 and 2. When released, the same happens in the reverse order.

We opened the button not in order to bend something, but in order to see firsthand how it works, and if we are lucky, then to look at the bounce. And the Samsung WB2000 camera and the I96U lens will help us with this. The aforementioned device can shoot video at 1000 frames per second. True, not so hot, but, as they say, what they are rich with.

Sophisticated setup for high-speed shooting:

And, in fact, the movie:

As you can see, the contact manages to fly the entire prescribed distance in five frames (that is, 5 milliseconds), and no visible bounce is observed. Perhaps bounce could be seen on the oscillogram, but, unfortunately, I remembered that I have an oscilloscope only when the mouse was already assembled. But one way or another, it is clear that the characteristic bounce time is clearly less than the minimum click time, and that the border between them is approximately five milliseconds.

Lyrical digression. How would I make a mouse if I had a switch of the above design? And like this:

Cheap and cheerful. The processor input is not only an ideal voltmeter, it is also a capacitor for several picofarads. So in those milliseconds while one contact flies from the second to the third, the voltage will not have time to change noticeably, and when it arrives, the capacitor will charge, and even if the contact jumps, it will still not be able to discharge, so there will be no bounce. Well, except that only he will jump up to the opposite contact, but this, as we have seen, is an extremely unlikely situation.

But the valiant mouse designers, as we will now see, are not looking for easy ways.

Let's measure our switch with a multimeter. First, we find that none of the contacts are shorted to power. Anyway. At rest, on the second contact, 2.5 volts of power, on the rest - zero. In the pressed state, all contacts are zero. This suggests that the developers did not follow my path, and the second contact, apparently, serves as the processor input, and the third contact is not used at all. But the funny thing is that after pressing the button, zero on the second contact remains for another five seconds! Unfortunately, the mechanism of work and the benefits of such a solution and the motivation of developers remain a mystery to me. I hope some of the knowledgeable people will enlighten me.

Thus, our entire harmonious scheme of dealing with bounce breaks against a blank wall of misunderstanding of modern circuitry solutions. But, in fact, do not stop when the job is almost done. So we will solder without understanding.

We will solder the capacitor between pins 1 and 2. And to measure the effect, we will use a script like this one, slightly tweaking it so that it responds to both pressing and releasing a button, and removing artificial time limits.

A 0.1 μF capacitor gives a click time of 600 ms. That is, no matter how fast we press, the button will "come off" not earlier than in 0.6 seconds. This is a bit too much. Using linear extrapolation, we assume that 3.3 nF will give a time of 20 ms. We solder - and we see a time of about 100 ms. But this time includes the time of the actual movement of the finger, and without a capacitor it is not much less. After trying a few more denominations, I decided to stop at 3.3 nF.

Since there were no SMD capacitors, the leg had to be soldered:

This, in fact, is all. The mouse has been successfully assembled and continues its simple but responsible service. I hope the above recipe will be useful not only for my mouse.

UPD: I completely forgot. There is one more scourge of mouse buttons that did not come up in the discussion until I remembered. It feels like this - you have to press on the button with more force, the click is no longer as clear as before, and sometimes the button gives a signal to release it while it is pressed. And there is only one clue - the plastic that presses on the switch can wear off over time, then such a beautiful depression will form in it, which does not allow the button to be pressed to the end. It is easy to treat it - you need to either modify this plastic with a file so that it becomes flat and parallel to the button again, or glue a thin flat plastic to it for the same purposes.

It may also seem that I am against methods "alternative" described in the article, but this is not the case. But each method has its own scope. If the mouse is made in such a way that the slightest bounce is perceived as pressing - you will still be cleaning the contacts and / or changing the switch every week.

UPD2: It turned out that not everything is so simple.

Today I will tell you how to remove a double mouse click. As I noted, computer mice can double-click for two main reasons:

1. Because ofmechanical faults ... I described such cases in the article .
2. Because of
the mouse itself.

In this article, I consider the second option.

1. Configuring the mouse parameters

Now I will tell you how to remove a double mouse click... Often the problem is solved through the Windows settings or the mouse driver itself. Therefore, first you need to look at Mouse Properties. You can find them in the Control Panel: Start -\u003e Control Panel -\u003e Mouse Properties... In the "Mouse Buttons" tab, check if sticking mouse... If so, we can safely turn it off. Also look at Double-Click Speed... As a standard, the speed is set there a little higher than average. We are trying to adjust this parameter for ourselves.

This is how the mouse properties look in Windows 7. The figure shows the standard settings.

2. Setting we set the parameters of the dadto

If adjusting the mouse parameters did not help, go to Start -\u003e Control Panel -\u003e Folder Options... We look at the parameter "Mouse clicks". Put a tick next to "Double open and select with one click".

This is what the folder properties should look like.

3. Reinstall the mouse driver

How else can you remove double click? We proceed to the most radical method. Go to Start -\u003e Control Panel -\u003e Device Manager ... We are looking for our mouse there (usually in the section "Mice and other pointing devices"). Open the context menu with the right mouse button, where we select "Properties". Next, we find the "Driver" tab, where we select uninstall driver... We agree with all Windows warnings.


The easiest way to uninstall the mouse driver is here.

If everything is fine, then the driver will be completely removed, after which the mouse will no longer work. Now you can remove it and then restart your computer (this is not at all necessary, but still not superfluous). Since the mouse is disabled, you can use the keyboard to restart the computer. Press the Start button, then using the arrows and the Tab key select "Shutdown", then press Enter. Alternatively, you can simply press the corresponding button on the system unit or keyboard.

After rebooting, plug the mouse back into the connector. Windows will detect it by itself and reinstall all drivers.

After that, the problem should go away. If the question still bothers you "how to remove double click" , then the problem is still in mechanical wear. For more details, see in the article.

Related materials:

I've been using A4Tech mice for many years now, and every time I come across the same problem: mouse double-clickinstead of single. This happens so often that I decided to write a separate article.So how to remove a double click ?


Generally, a mouse can double-click for two reasons:
1. Mechanical wear of buttons.
2. Problems with Windows drivers or settings. I already wrote about such cases once in the article
.

1. We disassemble the mouse

In the first case "surgical" intervention can help. The mouse needs to be disassembled for this. As I already noted in the article, one screw is under the sticker, one is visible and several more may be under the legs. At least that's how it was in mine.

Most likely, disassembling, you will see a bunch of dust, debris and similar delights. You need to do cleaning, for this it is best to use a piece of lint-free cloth moistened with alcohol (if it is not there, ordinary vodka will do). After cleaning, if possible, remove the wheel so that it does not interfere with our further work.

2. Correcting the backlash of the buttons

In most cases the problem is in the backlash of the buttons... We take ordinary electrical tape and glue it, as in the picture. But don't stick too much - it will only get worse ... You can use unnecessary protective film from a smartphone or PDA - it is stronger and more durable.





In the end it will look something like this.


When the glue dries, collect the mouse back. We check if everything is fine now. If the button is tight or not pressed at all, you need to disassemble the mouse again and remove the extra layer of electrical tape.

3. Problem in button sensors


If even now the mouse double-clicks, then problem in button sensors. Now looking for left and right button sensors (they are on the board). Usually sensors are small rectangles with a button on top. Click on this button. If everything is normal, we hear the usual click of your X7 mouse. If the sensor is damaged or broken, then there are only two options:

1. Most mice have three sensors: left, right and middle - under the wheel. They are all exactly the same - it's easier for the manufacturer. And since the middle mouse button is not very necessary for most users, its sensor can be re-soldered in place of the damaged one. Alternatively, you can take an old unnecessary mouse and rewire a working sensor from there.

2. If you don't have an old mouse, it's a pity to sacrifice the middle button or you don't have the skills to work with a soldering iron, it's easier to buy a new mouse. Fortunately, they are now inexpensive.



This is what the left and right button sensors look like.


The second case is when mouse double-click instead of single due to Windows settings or driver problems, I consider in the article.

Related materials:

What if the mouse starts to double-click instead of single-click (constantly or from time to time), although you click on the button only once? This chapter discusses the causes of this problem and how to solve it.

The reasons

Microswitch wear

The most common cause is wear and tear on the microswitch resulting in contact bounce. The left mouse button always has more clicks than the right (and vice versa, if you are left-handed and configured the mouse for the left hand), and the microswitch is designed for a very large, but still limited number of clicks. You can fix it yourself, it will take your accuracy and half an hour of time. If your mouse is a few years old and you don't want to repair it, the easiest way is to go to the store and buy a new mouse.

Software problem

A double click instead of a single click is not necessarily associated with a malfunctioning mouse. It could be a purely software problem with drivers or additional software.

To determine what is the cause in your case, try connecting the mouse to another computer or laptop. If the symptoms persist, then it is obviously a microswitch.

Solutions

Solution for driver problem

If you have Windows, this method can help: find the mouse in the list of devices through the "Control Panel", remove it from there and reboot. The mouse should then reconnect. Perhaps the problem with double clicks will go away (unlikely).

Software solutions for microswitch wear

MouseFix

There is a purely software solution to help with contact bounce in a microswitch: Daniel Jackson's MouseFix utility (for Windows). It intercepts clicks that occurred a very short time after the first, since such clicks can only be associated with bouncing contacts in the microswitch. This utility can be used at least as a temporary solution.

  1. Download the MouseFix utility and unpack it into a separate folder.
  2. In the All Programs → Startup folder, create a shortcut pointing to MouseFix.exe.
  3. Log out and log back in (or simply run the utility manually the first time).

Left Mouse Button Fix

The mouse that took part in the shooting has been successfully working for a year and a half after the operation.

Many PC users notice some oddities in the operation of a computer mouse. For example, the mouse tries to do a double click instead of a single one. There is little pleasant in this, therefore, willy-nilly, you wonder: how to remove a double click of a computer mouse?

Generally speaking, there can be two main reasons why the mouse double-clicks, namely:

  1. Purely mechanical wear of buttons that occurs over time.
  2. Problems with drivers or settings of the Windows operating system.

So, let's see what can be done in this case, how to fix and repair a mouse that started behaving in an undesirable way.

What is the reason for the double click? How to fix? Let's try to disassemble the mouse

In the most difficult neglected case, only "surgical" intervention can help. To do this, you need to disassemble the mouse. One of the screws can be located under the sticker, the other can be visible, and in addition several can be under the feet.


Don't be surprised if you see a decent layer of dust, debris and dirt inside the mouse. This is natural and shouldn't scare you. To clean the inside of the mouse, take a piece of lint-free cloth soaked in alcohol or vodka. It is better to remove the mouse wheel so that it does not interfere with the workflow.

How to fix button backlash

For the most part, the problem of a double click is associated with a button backlash or, in other words, with a gap with poor connection of parts. In order to get rid of a double-click, you need to take electrical tape and pieces cut to fit the buttons, carefully stick it on the upper inner side of the mouse, covering all the gaps, as shown in the figure. It is very effective to use unnecessary protective film from a PDA or smartphone in good condition, as it is strong and durable.


When the glue is completely dry, the mouse can be reassembled. Then just check if the parts are functioning normally. In case the button is pressed extremely tightly, or does not want to give in at all, remove the extra layer of electrical tape.

The reason for the double click may be in the button sensors

If the device makes a double click even after the performed manipulations, then most likely the problem of a double click in the button sensors. First of all, find the right and left button sensors on the board. This is easy to do, since the sensors are small rectangles with a button on top. You also need to press this button. If everything goes well, then we will hear the usual click of a computer mouse. If after all these manipulations your computer mouse continues to double-click, you have two options:

  1. Most computer mice have 3 sensors: left, middle (under the wheel) and right. They are all exactly the same. However, the middle mouse button is often unnecessary for users. Therefore, its sensor can be re-soldered instead of the damaged one. If you have an old unnecessary mouse, then a working sensor for soldering can be taken from there.
  2. But if you don’t have another computer mouse or don’t want to fiddle with the middle button, or don’t have the skills to work with a soldering iron, or simply don’t have the time and desire to repair the mouse, there is an easier way out of this situation - to go and buy a new computer mouse.
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Once upon a time there was a mouse, and its name was Defender MM-525. She firmly pulled her mouse strap - she clicked on the links, scrolled the pages, moved the cursor. But once a misfortune happened - instead of one click, she began to make two, or even more. Sometimes you want to pause a video on YouTube - but instead it opens full screen. Or you select text - and at the last moment the selection is reset. It is clear that it could not continue this way.

What to do? The Internet offers the following options:

Above is power, below is ground, to the right is a wire to the processor input. And at the input it has a field-effect transistor gate. In our case, we can assume that this is simply the ideal voltage meter. The voltage is greater than the specified one, which means that the processor concludes, the input is one, and if it is less, then zero.

But if the input of the processor is ideal, then the switch cannot be considered as such with all due respect. When the switch closes, it means that one piece of metal is in contact with another piece of metal. But between the "off" and "on" states there is that awkward moment when these two pieces barely touch. And if now there is contact, then in a microsecond it can disappear and then recover again. And sometimes even one contact hits another and, according to Newton's laws, bounces off it, or even several times. What will the mother of the processor think? That's right - he will think that the switch was turned on, turned off, turned on, turned off, turned on, turned off, etc. Although "in fact" it was turned on only once. This phenomenon even has its own name - contact bounce.

Wait, doesn't it look like anything? Oh yes, a similar case just happened with our mouse! This means that our working hypothesis will be that the mouse developers either did not remember at all about the possibility of chatter, or their efforts to combat it were in vain. And we will have to fight this enemy for them.

Let's notice two things. First, our click speed is limited. It is unlikely that we will click on the mouse more than ten times per second. Secondly, the switches try to do so that the bouncing moment passes as quickly as possible, and the mouse button will surely have time to calm down in one tenth of a second. Thus, our task comes down to separating high-frequency clicks from low-frequency ones, that is, we need a low-pass filter. The easiest way to do this is to solder the capacitor:

This is what we're going to do.

Here it is - our button:


And this is it, but without a cover:


Let's sign the contact numbers for convenience:


The principle of operation is obvious - contacts 1 and 3 are closed at rest, when the button is pressed for a while, all contacts open, and then contacts 1 and 2. When released, the same happens in the reverse order.

We opened the button not in order to bend something, but in order to see firsthand how it works, and if we are lucky, then to look at the bounce. And the Samsung WB2000 camera and the I96U lens will help us with this. The aforementioned device can shoot video at 1000 frames per second. True, not so hot, but, as they say, what they are rich with.

Sophisticated setup for high-speed shooting:


And, in fact, the movie:

As you can see, the contact manages to fly the entire prescribed distance in five frames (that is, 5 milliseconds), and no visible bounce is observed. Perhaps bounce could be seen on the oscillogram, but, unfortunately, I remembered that I have an oscilloscope only when the mouse was already assembled. But one way or another, it is clear that the characteristic bounce time is clearly less than the minimum click time, and that the border between them is approximately five milliseconds.

Lyrical digression. How would I make a mouse if I had a switch of the above design? And like this:

Cheap and cheerful. The processor input is not only an ideal voltmeter, it is also a capacitor for several picofarads. So in those milliseconds while one contact flies from the second to the third, the voltage will not have time to change noticeably, and when it arrives, the capacitor will charge, and even if the contact jumps, it will still not be able to discharge, so there will be no bounce. Well, except that only he will jump up to the opposite contact, but this, as we have seen, is an extremely unlikely situation.

But the valiant mouse designers, as we will now see, are not looking for easy ways.

Let's measure our switch with a multimeter. First, we find that none of the contacts are shorted to power. Anyway. At rest, on the second contact, 2.5 volts of power, on the rest - zero. In the pressed state, all contacts are zero. This suggests that the developers did not follow my path, and the second contact, apparently, serves as the processor input, and the third contact is not used at all. But the funny thing is that after pressing the button, zero on the second contact remains for another five seconds! Unfortunately, the mechanism of work and the benefits of such a solution and the motivation of developers remain a mystery to me. I hope some of the knowledgeable people will enlighten me.

Thus, our entire harmonious scheme of dealing with bounce breaks against a blank wall of misunderstanding of modern circuitry solutions. But, in fact, do not stop when the job is almost done. So we will solder without understanding.

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