Mitsubishi Lancer IX has gained fame as a reliable and unpretentious car. There are no ideal things, and the “Japanese” has its own weaknesses. Which every future owner should know about and which you need to pay attention to when buying a used car of this model.
Weaknesses of the 9th generation Mitsubishi Lancer and their manifestations
- increased oil consumption;
- throttle assembly;
- brake discs and calipers;
- steering rack;
- exhaust gas catalytic converter;
- weak paintwork.
Buyers of used cars should definitely pay attention to the following:
Increased oil consumption in cars with mileage of more than 100 thousand km.
This feature is “treated” by correct selection of engine oil, and if it does not help, by replacing oil seals, oil scraper rings, which tend to stick and wear out, and engine repair, even complete overhaul;
Throttle valve assembly.
It “gnaws out” a hole in the mechanism cylinder; at first this does not interfere, but it provokes increased wear of the mechanism. Also, washing the throttle assembly or an enlarged hole leads to an increase in idle speed - up to 1500 - 2000 rpm. A common factory defect. It can be solved by replacing the unit or repairing it using the Titus method;
Brake discs and calipers.
The problem appears when braking high speeds. The steering wheel rattles, the brake discs get hot, they begin to move and warp. There were cases when the knot split in half. The discs need to be changed, preferably with a high-quality non-original analogue, and the calipers are rebuilt and worn parts (cuffs, o-rings) are changed;
Steering rack.
When driving in a straight line, knocking noises appear on small bumps, as if someone were knocking on the steering column with a hammer. By 150 thousand mileage, this problem appears on every second car. The main reason is corrosion of the mechanism rod where it is sealed with oil seals. Leads to rupture of seals and oil leaks. This problem can be solved by purchasing a new rack (expensive), buying a used rack (analogy with a lottery: you can get a problem-free one and save money, or it may leak again in a month), repairs with replacement of the rod and a complete overhaul and replacement of all seals. The end result will be a practically new rail at a price 2-3 times cheaper. By the way, the vessels can also be attributed to weak steering rods;
Catalytic converter for exhaust gases.
There are two of them on Lancer. Due to the low quality of gasoline, the first one, which is located on the exhaust manifold and operates in more aggressive conditions, fails when it reaches 100 thousand. When the “Check Engine” light comes on and the reason is in the catalyst, there are not many options, namely: replacing the converter (very expensive and ineffective, since gasoline will destroy it again after 70 - 100 thousand), remove and fill it with weak (1 :9) a solution of orthophosphoric acid and water. The method is not always effective and will help if the cells are still in order. The third method consists of removing the catalyst and installing a blende for flashing the engine. The lambda probes that control the operation of the converter are moved to the second one to “deceive” the engine control program;
Weak paintwork on the body.
A body inspection is required before purchasing. Chips will lead to rust in the future. Caring for it with restorative polishes will help preserve the coating and extend its service life.
In addition to the above-mentioned weak points of a car of this model, it is necessary to carefully inspect the entire car before purchasing. Unless, of course, there is no way to take it to a car service center. It’s worth taking a ride on it and listening to possible knocks, squeaks, whistles, etc. In addition to the weak points of this car, there are a number of shortcomings that must be taken into account before purchasing a car.
Typical disadvantages of Mitsubishi Lancer from 2007-2010. release
- very poor sound insulation;
- lack of illumination of the glove compartment (apparently the designers considered it unnecessary, at least they would have included a flashlight in the kit);
- the “near/far” switch is inconvenient;
- weak head optics;
- rigid suspension;
- expensive original spare parts and, by the way, in terms of their durability, I could wish for better;
- small trunk volume;
- rattling of cheap plastic in the cabin;
- uncomfortable armrest;
- weak air conditioning and stove.
Let's summarize.
Despite the track record of shortcomings and weaknesses, the car is reliable, dynamic, especially with a two-liter engine, handles well and looks good. When purchasing, the main thing is to pay close attention to the inspection, and it is best to carry out diagnostics before purchasing, and also not to purchase cars that have been used in taxis or in training novice drivers.
P.S: Dear owners of this car model, if, according to your observations during operation, parts, components or assemblies often fail, we will be very grateful if you report these frequent breakdowns in the comments below!
Weaknesses and the main disadvantages of a used Mitsubishi Lancer IX was last modified: October 16, 2019 by Administrator
One of the pressing problems for owners of a wonderful car 🙂 from Mitsubishi is the diagnosis of Lancer 9. What to do if The check light came on on Lancer 9(check engine)? By the way, for those owners who do not know how to determine that the check light is on (and need to read the error codes), below is a photo of this situation.
So, to solve this problem, there are several ways Lancer 9 diagnostics, or three to be exact. In this article we will talk about them.
Method One - simple
The simplest and cheapest, but, unfortunately, does not allow diagnosing the Lancer 9. This method can only reset the error (turn off the check light). To do this, you need to remove the negative terminal from the battery for a while, after which the check light will go out - but you will never know the reason for the error. Moreover, if there is a malfunction in the car, the check engine will light up again after a while.
Method Two - car service
Indeed, why not come to a car service center to diagnose your Lancer 9? In this case, they will read the error to you and tell you the possible cause of the malfunction, and if possible (and you have money), they will repair the car. But in this case there is one disadvantage - the cost of diagnostics. Depending on the service, it ranges from 500 to 1000 rubles for reading codes and erasing errors. But, taking into account the “professionalism” of some service workers, the cause of the error cannot always be identified correctly and replacing certain units does not eliminate the error (and the money has already been spent).
The third method is the best (according to the editors of the site)
Naturally, our article would be incomplete if we did not tell our readers about a third, fairly simple and cheap way to diagnose Lancer 9. This method consists of purchasing an OBD2 ELM327 diagnostic adapter. This adapter allows you to read errors, diagnose a car using many parameters, and also erase these errors. Let's talk about this adapter and how to use it for Lancer 9 diagnostics more details.
This adapter is for at the moment There are three versions - Bluetooth, Wi-Fi and USB (shown in the picture below). These versions differ from each other only in the way you will use to read and display the parameters of your car. The Bluetooth version is suitable for laptops with Bluetooth, as well as tablets and Android smartphones with Bluetooth. Wi-Fi version Also suitable for laptops with Wi-Fi and Apple smartphones and tablets (i.e. IPhone and iPad). USB version is suitable for laptops. The adapters also differ in size and color, but in terms of functionality they are the same.
Let's look at the operation of this adapter using an example. Bluetooth adapter with an Android phone and the Torque program installed on it (you can download the diagnostic program for Lancer 9). For diagnostics, you need to connect the adapter to the OBD2 connector on the Lancer (the black 16-pin connector is located under the plastic to the right of the steering wheel).
Next, using your smartphone in the Bluetooth settings, find the OBD2 adapter and connect to it (the password for the adapter is usually 1234, 7890 or 0000). Next, go to the Torque program, which itself will connect to Lancer and begin reading the necessary parameters. Also in the program there is a menu item directly responsible for diagnosing the car and resetting errors (screenshots diagnostic program presented below).
ATTENTION! The editors of the site advise you to remove the adapter at the end of the trip, since power is always supplied to it, and it can drain the battery (if the car is idle for a long time).
How much does this adapter cost? - you ask. And practically nothing: 300-500 rubles in Chinese stores ( bluetooth version). True, very often when ordering, they send a defective item - and sending a defective item back to China is quite expensive. Therefore, you can buy this ELM327 OBD2 Bluetooth adapter in Russia - tested and with a guarantee.
But, as you understand, reading errors is one thing, but deciphering error codes for Lancer 9- completely different. Especially for our readers below, we offer a decoding of standard error codes for Lancer 9 and POSSIBLE reasons their appearance (note exactly POSSIBLE).
We also offer to download error codes for Lancer 9 for visitors to our website.
Code No. P0105: Atmospheric Pressure Sensor Circuit
Atmospheric pressure sensor failure.
Break or short circuit in the atmospheric pressure sensor circuit or poor contact in the connector.
.
Code No. P0110: Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Open or short circuit in the intake air temperature sensor circuit or poor contact in the connector.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
<АКП>.
Code No. P0115: Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Open or short circuit in the coolant temperature sensor circuit or poor contact in the connector.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
Code No. P0120: Throttle Position Sensor Circuit
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Throttle position sensor failure.
Open or short circuit in the throttle position sensor circuit or poor contact in the connector.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
Code no. P0125: Mode Setting Circuit feedback(based on oxygen sensor signal)
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Damage to the wiring harness in the oxygen sensor circuit or poor contact in the connector.
NOTE: When the front oxygen sensor degrades, the voltage moves away from the nominal (as with a new sensor), equal to approximately 0.5 V with a stoichiometric composition of the working mixture. The consequences of this care are corrected by the rear oxygen sensor. If the rear oxygen sensor does not respond well to changes in the composition of the working mixture due to its own degradation, then it will not cope with the task of correcting the signals from the front sensor. Thus, even if the system switches to feedback control mode, the voltage amplitude at the front sensor decreases and does not reach a value of 0.5 V. For this reason, fault code P0125 may be recorded.
Exhaust system malfunction.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
Code No. P0130: Front Oxygen Sensor Circuit<датчик 1>
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Oxygen sensor failure.
An open or short circuit in the front oxygen sensor circuit or poor contact in the connector.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
Code No. P0135: Front Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit<датчик 1>
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Front oxygen sensor heater failure.
Open or short circuit in the front oxygen sensor heater circuit or poor contact in the connector.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
Code No. P0136: Rear Oxygen Sensor Circuit<датчик 2>
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Rear oxygen sensor failure.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
Code No. P0141: Rear Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit<датчик 2>
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Rear oxygen sensor heater failure.
An open or short circuit in the rear oxygen sensor circuit or poor contact in the connector.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
Code No. P0170: Fuel system malfunction
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Fuel supply system malfunction.
Front oxygen sensor failure.
Intake air temperature sensor failure.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
Code No. P0201: Injector 1 Circuit
Code No. P0202: Injector 2 Circuit
Code No. P0203: Injector 3 Circuit
Code No. P0204: Injector 4 Circuit
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Injector failure.
Open or short circuit in the injector circuit or poor contact in the connector.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
Code No. P0300: Random misfire detection
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Crankshaft position sensor failure
Incorrect composition of the working mixture.
Low compression.
Coolant temperature sensor failure.
Timing belt slip.
Failure of the recirculation system and exhaust gas recirculation valve.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
Code No. P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detector Circuit
Code No. P0302: Cylinder 2 Misfire Detector Circuit
Code No. P0303: Cylinder 3 Misfire Detector Circuit
Code No. P0304: Cylinder 4 Misfire Detector Circuit
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Failure of one or more ignition system components.
Low compression.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
Code No. P0325: Knock Sensor Circuit
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Knock sensor failure.
An open or short circuit in the knock sensor circuit or poor contact in the connector.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
Code No. P0335: Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Crankshaft position sensor failure.
Open or short circuit in the crankshaft sensor circuit or poor contact in the connector.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
Code No. P0340: Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Camshaft position sensor failure.
Open or short circuit in the camshaft position sensor circuit or poor contact in the connector.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
Code No. P0403: EGR Solenoid Valve Circuit
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Failure of the electromagnetic (electrovacuum) valve of the EGR system.
Open or short circuit in the vacuum valve circuit or poor contact in the connector.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
Code No. P0421: Failure of the accelerated warm-up mode of the converter
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Degradation of the catalytic converter.
Front oxygen sensor failure.
Rear oxygen sensor failure.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
Code No. P0443: Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve Circuit
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Failure of the absorber purge control solenoid valve.
Open or short circuit in the solenoid valve circuit or poor contact in the connector
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
Code No. P0500: Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit<МКП>
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Speed sensor failure.
Open or short circuit in the speed sensor circuit or poor contact in the connector.
Code No. P0505: Idle Air Control Drive Circuit
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Open or short circuit in the idle air control drive circuit or poor contact in the connector.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
Code No. P0513: Immobilizer Circuit
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
An open or short circuit in the immobilizer circuit or poor contact in the connector.
Immobilizer failure.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
Code No. P0551: Power Steering Fluid Pressure Sensor Circuit
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Failure of the power steering pressure sensor.
Open or short circuit in the pressure sensor circuit or poor contact in the connector.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
Code No. P0622: Generator field relay contact circuit
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Open circuit in the excitation relay contact circuit.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
Code No. P1603: Backup circuit
POSSIBLE CAUSES OF MALFUNCTION
Open or short circuit in the backup power circuit or poor contact in the connector.
Engine control unit failure<МКП>.
Engine/gearbox control unit failure<АКП>.
SRS Error Codes:
1A Front impact sensor (LH) short-circuited
1B Front impact sensor (LH) open-circuited
1C Front impact sensor (LH) short-circuited to power supply
1D Front impact sensor (LH) short-circuited to ground
2A Front impact sensor (RH) short-circuited
2B Front impact sensor (RH) open-circuited
2C Front impact sensor (RH) short-circuited to power supply
2D Front impact sensor (RH) short-circuited to ground
14 Analog G-sensor malfunction
15 Safe G-sensor short-circuited (for frontal collision)
16 Safe G-sensor open-circuited (for frontal collision)
21*3 Driver's air bag squib short-circuited
22*3 Driver's air bag squib open-circuited
24*3 Passenger’s (front) air bag squib short-circuited
25*3 Passenger’s (front) air bag squib open-circuited
26*3 Driver's pre-tensioner squib short-circuited
27*3 Driver's pre-tensioner squib open-circuited
28*3 Passenger’s (front) pre-tensioner squib short-circuited
29*3 Passenger’s (front) pre-tensioner squib open-circuited
31 SRS-ECU capacitor circuit voltage too high
32 SRS-ECU capacitor circuit voltage too low
34*2 SRS-ECU connector lock out of order
35 Ignition of the air bag completed
39 Air bags deployed simultaneously
41*2 Power supply voltage (IG1 (A) voltage) drops a0bnormally.
42*2 Power supply voltage (IG1 (voltage) drops abnormally.
43*2 SRS warning light circuit open-circuited
44*2 SRS warning light circuit malfunction
45 SRS-ECU non-volatile memory (EEPROM) and A/D converter system
46*2 Incorrect SRS-ECU
51 Driver’s air bag squib activating circuit short-circuited
52 Driver’s air bag squib activating circuit open-circuited
10.04.2014
Let me be surprised by some of the messages on the Legion-Avtodata forum in the topic “Conference for auto diagnosticians December 3-6 in Moscow”,
And I, for example, will always be grateful to the training courses from Sergei Pavlovich Gazetin. And I will always remember his words: “first of all, if we suspect a “mechanics” problem, we connect the vacuum sensor and look. If the vacuum is abnormal, we are looking for mechanical problems...a vacuum sensor is like a thermometer for a doctor" No, that's great!
And when this Lancer came in for repairs with the problem of “stalls and won’t move,” what I did right away:
· Do you remember if there was a similar problem on the same car? Was.
· Is everything ready to check the vacuum level? Everything is ready.
· Do you have time to “think”? Eat.
Well, shall we begin?
A similar malfunction: “stumbles and doesn’t move” can occur for a variety of reasons. If you don’t have experience with similar repairs in your head and don’t know some of the basics, then it’s better not to take on such repairs - you’ll be scattered around and won’t do anything...
Mechanics, the fuel system, and the ignition system may be involved here. And even a “half-wedge” wheel bearing (as an incredible option). And so on. When troubleshooting, it is important to correctly and accurately identify the “weak link” and not be distracted by the unlikely.
It’s not for nothing that the manufacturer writes in its manuals that “before carrying out measurements and checks on a car, you need to prepare it.” Was anyone surprised by this fact? They say, what is there to cook, go ahead, check it out! But in vain, because it follows:
· Check that the coolant temperature is within 80-95°C. If there is no such temperature, you need to start the engine and bring the temperature up to the set temperature. Does anyone not do this? Well, don’t do it (“to each his own”?), then you will wonder why the data taken is “something different.” Everything is correct here, the manufacturer will not recommend anything unnecessary!
· Turn off all consumers: stove, headlights, sidelights, radio, etc. - nothing should be powered by the battery and affect the parameters of the information being recorded.
· Put the gearbox in neutral position; if the gearbox is automatic, put the selector in “P” (parking) mode.
· Turn off the ignition, that is, turn the ignition key to the “OFF” position.
Since I use a dealer MUT3 scanner, I do everything else - again, according to the Manufacturer’s recommendation, the following:
· Disconnect the hose from the positive crankcase ventilation valve and attach a vacuum gauge
· I close the hole in the forced ventilation valve
· I start the engine, check the idle speed - it should be within the required limits
I will focus on point number two: “I close the hole in the forced ventilation valve”; Quite often I get calls from colleagues who have read my articles and want to consult on something, and there were several questions that were answered after I asked again: “Was the hole in the PVC valve closed before the inspection?”
Well, there’s nothing wrong with that, everyone starts somewhere... below is a screenshot from a scanner, look and analyze?
What you can read on the scanner monitor and what we are currently working on:
Incorrect vacuum readings (43 kPa)
· Long Trim and Short Trim parameters have gone negative
Incorrect vacuum readings (43 kPa)
Let's start with rarefaction, although this is not a completely accurate definition. It would be more accurate to say “differential pressure”, since we are comparing “barometric” (atmospheric) pressure” and “real (actual) pressure in the intake manifold”. We call the difference between them “rarefaction”. In our case, differential pressure = 43 kPa. This alone begins to raise questions, since for such motors the value of DP (differential pressure) should be plus or minus 27-30 Kpa. The difference is noticeable and there must be reasons for this.
The Long Trim and Short Trim parameters have gone negative
When these parameters go beyond the control limits (the average value is about 0%) towards enrichment or depletion of the fuel-air mixture, this may indicate some kind of malfunction in the fuel system, in the intake-exhaust system, in the ignition system, etc. You can look my short video on the topic of the issue - “Before replacement”
Now is the time to use a pressure sensor and really look at the processes taking place:
The red square on the oscillogram highlighted the high-voltage pulse(I’ll call it colloquially: “spark moment”). There, in the red square, there is a number “0”, this is top dead center. It turns out that the “spark ignites” after passing the dead center. So, is it time to look at the gas distribution system? Elegantly open and remove the casing...
For clarity, I drew a white stripe on the timing belt: “Where the mark is located.” The white dot to the right and below is “as it should be.” In the lower right corner of the photo is a screenshot from the manual for this motor.
The alignment mark has shifted and moved back. For what reason? Miracles don’t happen, everything has a reason, and to do this you need to go down the belt and inspect the shaft:
There is unusualness, there is “something” - but only an attentive eye will notice it. Let's look and study the question further:
Did you notice too? There is some wear on the surface. What does this mean, what do you think?
Well, while you’re thinking, you can watch another short video, where everything becomes very clear. Simply indescribable beauty. And you can estimate how far the gear moves to the left and right and how this can affect the operation of the gas distribution mechanism:
Conclusion after the measurements taken: “replace the gear”. After replacing the gear, the differential pressure readings leveled out and became satisfactory for stable engine operation:
And here is my third video - “After replacement”:
But you also need to pay attention to the crankshaft. It’s clear that “the iron there is thick – it won’t wear off!”, but this little thing is still somehow annoying...
Let me briefly summarize the work done and draw my personal conclusions:
How wonderful this renovation looks on paper! And not only this one - all the articles on “repair practice” are “easy, simple, beautiful.” And if you think about it, ask the question: “Where does everything come from?” I think so: - If a person comes to work in a car service, in diagnostics, then he must immediately discard the desire to “Earn a lot! Now! Instantly! Forget about it for now.
And immerse yourself in your studies. There is so much to know that, as one of my friends correctly said: “Damn, there are too few hours in the day!”
Why did I mention studying with S.P. Gazetin at the very beginning of my story - this is good way expand the hour frame of the day and in a few days learn and study so much material that would have taken months or years to complete. All these “courses, conferences and similar events” are nothing more than a “squeeze”, like a concentrated thought that the lecturer gives to the audience.
P.S While I was writing this article (and I wrote it for a long time, you understand - there is little time), the Legion-Avtodata company announced aSecond conference "Automotive repair technologies. Diagnostics of modern power units" at the end of March 2014,- .
It matched well. I looked at the conference program - it was interesting. Designed for a wide range of automotive specialists. But since I mainly deal with gasoline cars Mitsubishi and Toyota, I chose for myself a lecture by S.P. Gazetin:"Diagnostics of gasoline engines using oxygen sensor signals and lambda circuit parameters using a scanner and oscilloscope."
From a practical point of view, the following topics are very interesting to me:
8. Fuel correction and fuel adaptation, parameters describing the processes of fuel correction and adaptation, their interpretation (adaptive corrections, additive and multiplicative correction, possible options displayed on the scanner display).
9. Use of fuel correction and adaptation parameters for diagnosing the engine and its systems.
Book Mitsubishi Lancer 9 2003-2007 right-hand drive petrol models, spare parts catalogue. Car repair and operation manual. Legion-Avtodata
mania for drips of gasoline, oil, brake and coolant. Make sure the electrical wiring is intact. Check the fit of the high-voltage wires in the ignition coil sockets and on the spark plugs.
6. Turn on the ignition by turning the key in the ignition switch to the “ON” position. The electric fuel pump will turn on. Without closing the hood (close the hood in case of rain or snow), get behind the wheel.
USEFUL TIPS
It is better to close the hood after the engine starts running. Before doing this, it is advisable to inspect the engine again, make sure there are no leaks of fuel, oil, coolant, as well as extraneous sounds in its operation. If for any reason the spark plugs are flooded during an unsuccessful start attempt, use the cylinder purge mode. To do this, press the accelerator pedal all the way and turn on the starter. In this mode, there is no fuel supply and excess gasoline is removed from the cylinders by a stream of fresh air, while the spark plugs are dried. After purging, try starting again as usual.
If the engine does not start, there are three main reasons:
The starting system does not work;
The ignition system does not work;
The power system is not working.
Malfunctions in the starting system
Malfunctions in the starting system manifest themselves in abnormal operation of the starter. There are five main starter malfunctions.
1. The starter does not turn on. The reason is a violation of contact connections, a break or short circuit in the starter switching circuits, a malfunction of the traction relay.
2. When the starter is turned on, multiple clicks are heard. The reason is a malfunction of the holding winding of the traction relay, the battery is severely discharged, and the contact connections in the starter circuit are loose.
3. The starter turns on, but its armature either does not rotate or rotates slowly. The reason is a discharged battery, broken contact connections, burning of traction relay contacts, dirty commutator or worn brushes, interturn or short circuit in the windings.
4. The starter turns on, its armature rotates, but the flywheel remains motionless. The reason is a weakening of the starter's attachment to the clutch housing, damage to the teeth of the flywheel or drive gear, slipping of the freewheel of the drive, breakage of the lever, drive ring or buffer spring of the starter drive.
5. The starter does not turn off after starting the engine. The reason is a malfunction of the starter freewheel, sintering of the traction relay contacts. In the event of such a malfunction, stop the engine immediately!
These malfunctions require qualified intervention at a car service center or upon arrival at the garage (see section 10 “Electrical equipment”, p. 184). First you can only check the degree of discharge battery using a voltmeter (for example, as part of a car tester) and tightening the contact connections in the starter circuit.
Examination
ignition systems
WARNING
Your vehicle is equipped with a high energy microprocessor ignition system (MPI). A voltage of approximately 40,000 V is supplied to the high-voltage wires, and although at low current levels it is not life-threatening, a possible electric shock when checking the ignition system can lead to serious consequences. Therefore, if you handle a high-voltage wire with the ignition on, use a thick rubber glove or, as a last resort, pliers with insulated handles.
USEFUL ADVICE
Before checking the ignition system, place the gear shift lever in neutral and leave the parking brake on.
1. With the ignition off, check the integrity and seating of the high-voltage wires in the ignition coil sockets.
2. Check the serviceability of the ignition coils (see “ ”, p. 200).
3. If the low voltage circuit of the ignition coils is normal, check for the presence of a spark at the spark plugs. Remove the high voltage wire from the spark plug of the 1st or 3rd cylinder. Insert a spare spark plug into the end of the wire and press its metal part against the vehicle's ground (for example, against the engine intake pipe). Use the starter to turn the engine crankshaft.
WARNINGS
Reliable contact of the spark plug body with ground is mandatory, since if an additional spark gap appears that is larger than the gap between the spark plug electrodes, damage to the high-voltage circuit of the ignition coil or the engine control system unit may occur. The specified check spend no more than five seconds so as not to damage the exhaust gas catalysts when gasoline that has not burned in the engine cylinders gets into them.
4. If there is no spark, replace the high-voltage wires with new ones. You can first try to install new, but proven ones, “from a working machine.”
5. If after replacing the wires a spark does not appear, replace the ignition coils (see “Removing, installing and checking ignition coils”, p. 200). If there is a spark, but the engine does not start, replace the spark plugs with new ones. You can also first try to install new, but proven ones, “from a working machine.”
6. If after this the engine does not start, check the serviceability of the engine management system (see “Fuel injection system malfunctions”, page 32).
Checking the engine power system
The main indicator of the health of the engine power system is the fuel pressure in the fuel rail. But first, we recommend checking the condition of the air filter (see “Replacing the air filter element”, page 55), since this work is simple and will not take much time. After you have ensured that the air filter is clean, check the reliability of the electrical contacts in the wiring harness blocks of the injection system units responsible for supplying fuel (electric fuel pump, injectors).
See also:
