from 120 rub. RUB
Random access memory (RAM) is dynamic, volatile memory with free access. Essentially, it is a temporary data archive for the software. As a design, RAM is a combination of modules with chips connected to the motherboard.
It is RAM that powers running programs.
What happens when RAM doesn't work:
Reasons why RAM does not work:
How to diagnose RAM: download to a flash drive with the utility ( application program) data from RAM, the utility will monitor the RAM parameters. Then you need to boot from the flash drive and check the RAM.
What to do if RAM does not work:
We will help you solve this problem!
If your RAM does not work, and you have not been able to find out the cause of this problem, or do not want to waste time on repairs, you can contact the Expert service center, where experienced specialists will quickly diagnose the RAM and carry out the necessary repairs efficiently.
Any problems with RAM are not as common as with other computer components. But they still happen and you need to be prepared for it. When problems with RAM make themselves felt, this can manifest itself in different ways: again - “BSOD” (Blue Screen of Death - blue screen death), spontaneous reboot of the computer, freezes, etc.
Note: The Blue Screen of Death looks something like this.
It can appear not only during problems with RAM, but this is one of the sure signs that clearly “speaks” that something is wrong with the computer and requires specialist intervention, i.e. - us! :)
If RAM does not work, then there may be two options:
- 1. The RAM is completely burnt out. In this case, when turned on, all fans system unit rotate regularly, but the system does not show any further signs of “life”.
- 2. The RAM has partially failed (failures in the operation of one or more of its chips). In this case, the situation is not so obvious. The computer can successfully load the operating system and even work stably for some time, but when trying to launch any resource-intensive application, it will reboot, freeze, or show a “BSOD”.
In the second case, it is necessary to conduct a full test of the RAM for errors in its operation. This is done using special programs and today we will talk about one of them. Personally, it has never let me down. Meet us! Wonderful utility - " Memtest».
Here's what the testing process looks like:
To identify problems with RAM, the program sequentially runs eight tests, each of which loads different areas of it, writing to them different meanings, reading and comparing with the standard. We can see the progress of all these tests in the upper right corner in the screenshot above.
If errors in memory operation are found during testing, they are displayed in red in the middle part of the window.
The screenshot above shows that this memory module is no longer alive! :)
Problems with RAM are usually solved by replacing the unstable module (normal operation with it will still not be possible). Although we continue to successfully use some of them in our work. How? In the terminal clients that we talked about in the article "". In this case, there is no active exchange with memory, and if there are no accesses to its faulty pages, then it can function properly for quite a long time.
As you can see, the Memtest program is very easy to use (testing starts automatically after downloading), it does not require any additional settings and configuration and does an excellent job.
I would like to give you some tips on troubleshooting problems with RAM:
- 1. Always test memory only with boot disk programs. If you run Memtest from Windows, it may happen that by trying to access the faulty memory section, the program will cause Windows to restart. Do you need it again? :)
- 2. If you have several RAM modules installed, then by testing all of them together, it will not be possible to determine which specific module is causing the failures. Therefore, we need to test them separately (take out all the “unnecessary” ones from the slots and leave only one being tested). And this will happen to everyone! ... module :)
That's all I wanted to tell you today about problems with RAM. By tradition, I provide a link to download the program itself.
Note: After downloading the archive, unzip it. You will receive a “memtest” file with an “iso” extension (this is the image file of the program itself). Now it will need to be written to disk in image recording mode.
After this, insert the CD into the computer being tested, set the Bios to boot from it and test the RAM.
I recommend that you always test RAM only under DOS, since it itself uses no more than one megabyte of memory for its needs and we can easily test the rest of its space. If we start diagnosing RAM problems from under Windows, then a certain part of it (occupied by the system) will be inaccessible to the testing program and the procedure itself will not be so effective.
I would like to say a few more words about the “blue screen of death” (BSOD). There is no point in stretching this material into a separate article, but here this information will be appropriate. So, which one? useful information for ourselves can we find out from this blue screen? Pay attention to the photo below:
We are only interested in the alphanumeric value after the word “STOP”. It is this designation that can tell us in which direction to move when identifying a particular malfunction. This applies not only to problems with RAM. There are a great many meanings of the “STOP” error codes themselves (depending on the specific malfunction), but using them you can approximately get your bearings and save your time when diagnosing.
How can we understand such a large number of stop error codes? Don’t keep them all in your head! This is not necessary. Everything has been done for us a long time ago :) For example, there is one wonderful program “” (you can download it from the link), which contains their database and explanations of errors (in Russian). All you have to do is specify a specific STOP code and the program will provide all the necessary information.
Let's indicate our value: 0x0000007A
In this case, the code indicates to us problems with RAM. I know this for sure, because this is an example from my recent practice :) The program can update the error database from the manufacturer’s website, so pay attention to the “Updates” item.
I would also like to talk about this point: it is possible that during installation operating system Have you seen a message like the one in the screenshot below?
IN 99 cases out of a hundred (we still attribute one to the fact that installation disk really dirty or scratched) we are dealing with the same RAM problems. Naturally, the name of the file that the system fails to copy can be absolutely anything, since it is at this stage of installation that a large amount of data is copied into memory and some files try to write to its faulty cells.
Now here are some general recommendations to ensure that problems with RAM do not cause you trouble; remember that memory, like any other node to which voltage is applied, heats up and its overheating can negatively affect the stable operation of the system as a whole.
Personally, I decided for myself this way: a couple more small fans in the system unit - no problem! :) What am I getting at? Present on the market various systems for cooling RAM. These can be either cap-on radiators attached to both sides of the memory chips, or small prefabricated cooling systems that are equipped with fans and are mounted directly above the memory slots.
For example, I use this cooling system “Kingston HyperX Cooling Fan” in my .
When disassembled, this is an elementary children's construction set that needs to be assembled and fixed on the white latches of the slots, extending (in the direction indicated by the arrows) the aluminum fastenings of the device. The device is connected to one of the fan connectors on the motherboard.
In addition, the device has a nice LED backlight :)
The situation is as follows: very often, when assembling a computer, RAM modules are installed in the slots closest to the processor. If I see this, then, if possible, I try to immediately move them away from the processor (third or fourth slot). Why am I doing this?
According to my numerous observations, it is the first two RAM connectors that are most susceptible to dust. This is due to the active cooling system of the processor (fan), which evenly distributes dust within a radius of 5-7 centimeters from it.
More than once, the entire “repair” of a seemingly seriously inoperative machine boiled down to reinstalling the memory in another slot (with preliminary cleaning of the latter).
Dust is the enemy of any electronics! Sometimes a lot of it can accumulate inside and nothing, and sometimes just a little on the contacts and the entire system is completely inoperable. Cleaning can be done using a soft brush or brush. As the photo below shows:
Take a good look at the recesses in the connectors, because this is where the electrical contacts are located. To prevent problems with RAM from bothering you in the future, also clear the “tracks” on the module itself.
Personally, I use an ordinary elastic band for this.
Carefully wipe all the terminals with it (move the rubber band parallel to the copper contacts in the direction indicated by the arrow) and you will notice that the contacts immediately become lighter, and therefore the electrical contact is better. Install RAM away from the CPU cooling system and let your computer work for a long time and without failures :)
P.S.. I thought about it and decided to add a little more to the article. The topic does not seem to be directly related to RAM problems, but I hope it will be useful to readers. What program will you use to record the “iso” image that I posted above? If you answered “Nero”, then read the text further :)
I also used this data before software, but then I began to notice that his distribution with each new version everything grows and grows in size. And it came to a paradoxical situation: in order to simply burn a disc, I had to install it on my computer software package 300 megabytes in size!
Realizing that this could not continue, I began to look for an alternative. I found it in the form of a wonderful little thing called “img itemprop="image" Burn”. Its size is slightly less than two megabytes. She burns discs perfectly and I had a case when she (without any questions) burned me a CD image in 800 megabyte per DVD disc, while our “folk” three-hundred-meter package required some additional plugin for this “complex” operation :)
So, without further unnecessary words, I sincerely recommend you this little helper “”.
Hello Giktimes! Upgrading RAM is the most basic type of PC upgrade, as long as you're lucky and don't stumble upon one of the many hardware incompatibilities. We tell you in what cases a set of cool RAM will not “start” on an old PC, why on some platforms you can increase RAM only with the help of “selected” modules, and we warn about other characteristic quirks of hardware.
We know about RAM that there is never too much of it, and that, depending on the age of the computer, you have to choose from very old DDR, old DDR2, mature DDR3 and modern DDR4. At this point, the guide at the level of “well, the main thing is to buy it, and then it will somehow work, or exchange it, if anything” could be completed - it’s time to consider the pleasant and not so specific in the selection of hardware. That is, cases when:
- It should work, but for some reason it doesn't
- the upgrade is not cost-effective or is it better to do it in a multi-step manner
- I want to carry out the modernization with “little blood” in accordance with the potential of the PC
Check where the controller is located
If you're upgrading an outdated computer not just for the "love of the art" but also for practical reasons, it makes sense to first evaluate how viable the hardware platform is before investing in it. The most archaic of the current ones are chipsets for Socket 478 (Pentium IV, Celeron), which extend from platforms with support for SDRAM PC133 (Intel 845 chipset, for example), through mainstream DDR-based options, up to later, strikingly more modern chipsets with DDR2 support PC2-5300 (Intel 945GC, etc.).
Previously, controllers were located outside the processor, but now, as it happens, they work from inside
Against this background, alternatives from the AMD camp of the same time look less colorful: all chipsets for Socket 754, which housed the Athlon 64, representatives of the K8 microarchitecture, support DDR memory, the same type of memory was supported by processors for Socket 939 (Athlon 64 and the first dual-core Athlon 64 X2). Moreover, in the case of AMD chips, the memory controller was built into the processor - now this approach would not surprise anyone, but Intel purposefully kept the controller in the chipset, precisely in order to combine processors for the same socket with new types of RAM.
For this reason, subsequent AMD chips for socket AM2/AM2+ with a RAM controller under the processor cover worked only with DDR2, while Intel with its “long-lived” Socket 775 extended the pleasure with DDR to the very tomatoes of DDR3! In more modern platforms, both processor manufacturers have switched to an on-chip CPU controller, and such tricks with supporting assorted RAM are a thing of the past.
When is it cheaper to change a chipset than to shell out for old memory?
This cumbersome list is not needed to impress readers with the breadth and abundance of chipsets in outdated PCs, but to provide a slightly unexpected upgrade maneuver. The essence of this simple maneuver is that sometimes it will be more rational to purchase a motherboard with support for cheaper and more modern memory, rather than fork out for the already rare RAM of the previous generation.Because the same amount of DDR2 memory on the secondary market will be at least 50% more expensive than DDR3 memory of comparable capacity. Not to mention that DDR3 has not yet been removed from the assembly line, so it can be purchased in new condition, in an inexpensive kit.
And with new chipsets, it becomes possible to expand RAM to values that are relevant today. For example, if you compare prices in Russian retail, then 8 gigabytes (2x 4 Gb) of DDR2 memory with a frequency of 800 MHz will cost you about 10 thousand rubles, and the same amount of DDR3 memory with a frequency of 1600 MHz (Kingston Value RAM KVR16N11/8, for example) - 3800-4000 rubles. Taking into account the sale and purchase of a motherboard for an old PC, the idea looks reasonable.
The realities of upgrading computers with native DDR and DDR2 support have long been known to everyone:
- memory modules with different timings and frequencies most often they manage to work together, and “alignment” occurs either according to the SPD profile in a less productive module, or (what’s worse) the motherboard chooses a standard profile for working with RAM. As a rule, with the minimum permissible clock frequency.
- the number of modules, ideally, should be equal to the number of channels. Two memory sticks with a capacity of 1 GB each in an old PC will work faster than four modules with a capacity of 512 MB. Fewer modules means lower load on the controller, higher efficiency.
Two channels in the controller - two memory modules for maximum performance. The rest is a compromise between capacity and speed.
- modules of equal volume work more efficiently in dual-channel mode. In other words, 1 GB + 1 GB will be better than 1 GB + 512 MB + 512 MB.
- evaluate platform performance before purchasing memory. Because some chipsets do not reveal the potential of even their “antediluvian” type of RAM. For example, the Intel 945 Express platform is equipped with a dual-channel DDR2 controller supporting frequencies up to 667 MHz. This means that the platform will recognize the DDR2 PC6400 modules you purchased, but the modules will be limited in performance and will work only as PC2-5300, “identical to natural ones.”
The Intel LGA775 socket is one of the options when buying a motherboard with DDR3 support is easier and cheaper than upgrading memory with a platform within old version DDR
And, it seems, this list of nuances is enough to make you want to “drag” an LGA775-based computer to a chipset with DDR3 support. However, you will still laugh, but upgrading an old platform with new RAM also has its own nuances.
In debut platforms with DDR3 support (Intel x4x and x5x chipsets and AMD analogues of the same time), controllers can only work with old-style modules. An absurd situation? Yes, but the fact remains a fact.
The fact is that old systems do not speak the “language of communication” with modules that are equipped with high-density memory chips. At the everyday level, this means that this module, whose 4 gigabytes are “spread out” into eight chips on the front side printed circuit board, will not be able to work on an old PC. And the old module, in which the same volume is implemented on 16 chips (8 on each side) with a similar volume and frequency, will be operational.
Such compatibility problems are typical, for example, for the desktop Intel G41 Express (the same one that carries a considerable share of the surviving Core 2 Duo or Core 2 Quad) or the mobile Intel HM55 (laptops based on the first generation Intel Core based on the Nehalem microarchitecture).
Sometimes motherboard/laptop manufacturers release new BIOS version in order to teach old platforms to work with new RAM revisions, but most often there is no talk of any long-term support for old equipment. And, unfortunately, there is no talk of any special series of memory for owners of “outdated, but not quite” PCs - memory production has moved forward and turning it back is very expensive.
In order not to bother with such concepts as “memory chip density,” at the household level, owners of old PCs are advised to look for Double-sided DIMM, dual-sided memory modules that are more likely to be compatible with debut DDR3-based platforms. In the Kingston model line suitable option will HyperX Blu KHX1333C9D3B1K2/4G - 4 GB DDR3 module for desktops with sixteen memory modules on board. It’s not so easy to find on sale, but if you want 16 GB on an old PC, know how to spin.
And yes, the “best of the archaic” chipsets, such as the Intel P35 Express, for example, are also content with DDR3 support at 1333 instead of the 1600 MHz typical for modern budget platforms.
HyperX Blu KHX1333C9D3B1K2 is one of the few ways to get 16 GB of RAM in older PCs
No diversity - no problem
After a long-term “stronghold of resistance” with the memory controller in the northbridge of Intel platforms, experiments stopped. All new Intel platforms and AMD provided a controller under the cover of the CPU itself. This, of course, is bad from the point of view of the longevity of the platform (you cannot do the trick and “transfer” to new type memory with an old processor), but RAM manufacturers adjusted and, as you can see, DDR3 memory has not lost its popularity even in 2017. Its carriers today are the following platforms:| AMD | Intel |
| am3 | lga1366 |
| am3+ | lga1156 |
| fm1 | lga1155 |
| fm2 | lga1150 |
| fm2+ | lga2011 |
The list of processor architectures based on these platforms is much more extensive! But there is less variety in the choice of memory, or rather almost none. The only exception is AMD processors for socket AM3, which, to the delight of budget-conscious buyers, are compatible with socket AM2, AM2+. Accordingly, the “reds” equipped such processors with a universal controller that supports both DDR2 memory (for AM2+) and DDR3. True, in order to “boost” DDR3 on Socket AM3 to frequencies of 1333 and 1600 MHz, you will have to additionally tinker with the settings.
This is roughly how new computers based on DDR3 and competing memory types compared in the recent past
The principles for selecting memory in the case of DDR3-based platforms are as follows:
- for FM1, FM2 and FM2+, if we are talking about an APU with powerful integrated graphics, you can and should choose the most powerful RAM. Even old chips based on FM1 are able to cope with DDR3 at a frequency of 1866 MHz, and chips based on the Kaveri microarchitecture and its “restyling” Godavari in some cases squeeze out all the juice even from extremely overclocked DDR3 at a frequency of 2544 MHz! And these are not “corn” megahertz, but truly useful in real work scenarios. Therefore, overclocking memory is simply necessary for such computers.
Performance gains in AMD APUs depending on RAM frequency (source: ferra.ru)
It’s worth starting, for example, with modules HyperX HX318C10F - they already work “in the base” at 1866 MHz and CL10, and when overclocked they will come in handy for clock-sensitive AMD hybrid processors.
AMD APUs desperately need high-frequency memory
- "antique" Intel processors on LGA1156 and its server brother LGA1366 platforms capable of riding high-frequency DDR3 only if the multiplier is correctly selected. Intel itself guarantees stable operation exclusively within the “up to 1333 MHz” range. By the way, do not forget that in addition to supporting ECC registered memory, the LGA1366 and LGA2011 server platforms offer three- and four-channel DDR3 controllers. And they remain, perhaps, the only candidates for upgrading RAM to 64 GB, because non-registered memory modules with a capacity of 16 GB are almost never found in nature. But in LGA2011, memory overclocking has become easily possible up to 2400 MHz.
- Almost all processors based on microarchitectures Sandy Bridge and Ivy Bridge(LGA1155) support RAM with frequencies up to 1333 MHz. It is no longer possible to increase the clock generator frequency and thus achieve “easy” overclocking in this generation of Intel Core. But models with an unlocked multiplier and the “correct” motherboard capable of going far beyond the notorious 1333 MHz, so for Z-chipsets and processors with the K suffix it makes sense to spend money on modules HyperX Fury HX318C10F - the standard 1866 MHz is “driveable” almost to the maximum values for Bridge processors. It won't seem enough!
- LGA1150, a carrier of chips based on Haswell and Broadwell microarchitectures, became the last of Intel’s “civilian” platforms with support for DDR3, but the methods of interaction with RAM have not changed much since the days of Sandy Bridge and Ivy Bridge. Unless support for mass DDR3 models with a frequency of 1600 MHz has finally come to life. If we talk about overclocking, then the theoretical maximum for processors with unlocked multipliers on overclocking motherboards is 2933 MHz! The maximum is the maximum, but with support for XMP profiles in modern DDR3 modules, achieving high frequencies on aging memory types is no longer difficult.
DDR4 is the fastest, most basic memory to upgrade and purchase
It’s hard to call DDR4 SDRAM memory a new product - after all, Intel processors Skylake, the first mass-produced CPUs with DDR4 on board, came out back in 2015 and managed to get a “restyling” in the form of slightly more optimized and efficient overclocking ones Kaby Lake. And in 2016, AMD demonstrated a platform with DDR4 support. True, I just demonstrated, because the AM4 socket is intended for AMD processors“finally serious competition” RyZEN, which were just declassified.
DDR4 is still very young, but in order to unlock the potential of four-channel controllers on the Intel LGA 2011-v3 platform, overclocker memory is already needed
With the choice of memory for supernova platforms, everything is extremely simple - the frequency of mass-produced DDR4 modules starts at 2133 MHz (they are also achievable on DDR3, but “in a jump”), and the volume starts at 4 GB. But buying a “starter” DDR4 configuration today is as short-sighted as being content with DDR3 with a frequency of 800 MHz at the dawn of its appearance.
The memory controller built into processors based on the LGA1151 platform is dual-channel, which means that you need to fit into a couple of modules, the capacity of which is enough for modern games. Today this volume is 16 GB (no, we’re not kidding - with 8 GB of RAM in 2017 you won’t be able to “deny yourself anything”), and as for the clock frequency, DDR4-2400 memory has become the right mainstream.
In server/extreme processors for the LGA 2011-v3 platform, the memory controller is already four-channel, and of all types of RAM, only DDR4-2133 is de jure supported, but memory overclocking is based on Intel chipset X99 with Intel Core i7 Extreme is not easy, but very easy. Well, a computer for maximalists needs memory for maximalists - for example, “the toughest” HyperX Predator DDR4 HX432C16PB3K2 with a clock frequency of 3200 MHz. According to the “go for a walk” principle, the LGA 2011-v3 platform must be equipped with all four modules - only in this case will the four-channel controller be able to realize the full speed potential of the memory subsystem.
In order not to cram the rules and exceptions
What can be added to the nuances of choice described above? A lot of things: specific all-in-one nettops with non-reference design of components, laptops of the same model with completely different potential for upgrades, individual capricious models of motherboards and other “rake” that are easy to stumble upon if you have not followed hardware trends on the forums enthusiasts.In this case, Kingston offers online configurator. With its help, you can select guaranteed compatible and efficient RAM for desktops, workstations, nettops, ultrabooks, servers, tablets and other devices.
There is a reason to check the compatibility of the PC hardware with the memory you are considering buying, so as not to return to the store and explain to consultants that “the memory is functional, but my computer needs DDR3-1600, which is not quite the usual DDR3-1600.”
Don't leave old people to their fate!
Don't you think - upgrading memory is really more troublesome than older computer. This article does not cover all possible difficulties and particulars in choosing memory (it is almost physically impossible, and you would be tired of going through the entire summary of such trifles). But this is not a reason to send still working hardware to the dustbin of history.
You can light up at any age
Because outdated PCs from our overclocking-enthusiast bell towers can still do a good job for less ambitious users or retrain as a home server/media center, and we won’t be performing yet another song to the “immortal” Sandy Bridge, which celebrated its sixth anniversary and is still good. I wish you high performance and fair winds in upgrading your PC!
Fast RAM is good, but fast RAM at a discount is even better! Therefore, do not miss the opportunity to purchase any of the HyperX Savage DDR4 and HyperX Predator DDR4 memory kits with a 10% discount using a promotional code before March 8 DDR4FEB in Yulmart. There is no such thing as too much memory, and even more so with powerful and cool memory for new PC platforms!
To receive additional information about products Kingston And HyperX please visit the company's official website. HyperX will help you choose your kit
System problems personal computer, laptops can be of different designs. One of the most incomprehensible to beginners is that it doesn’t work. How can you understand that this is the root of the problem? How to determine if the RAM is damaged? What to do if you are completely sure there is a problem? We will answer these and other questions in detail in the article.
Key Concepts
RAM is the "official" name for random access memory. A chip located in a special connector on your computer or laptop. In the first case, its dimensions are larger, in the second - smaller.
The RAM strip is the chip that represents the RAM. I must say that this is the most reliable hardware component of your PC. It breaks less often. Manufacturers set the planks to last for at least 4 years. It's all about the simplicity of the microcircuit design. It does not heat up, which is why it does not need a cooler (fan in computer system). True, sometimes powerful gaming PCs install a radiator to cool the RAM. It also makes the RAM bar structurally stronger.
From here you can identify that different RAM will work differently. However, the causes of failure for all varieties are identical.
Causes of malfunctions
Why doesn't my RAM work? Please note that the cause of the breakdown can only be physical. RAM is not harmed by software problems and computer or virtual viruses.
RAM does not work in the following cases:
- "Congenital" manufacturing defect.
- Mechanical damage.
- Malfunctions in the power supply.
- Wear.
- Static voltage.
- Subcooling or overheating of the component.
We propose to analyze each of the causes of the problem in more detail.
Marriage
RAM does not work. Manufacturing defects are a fairly rare reason here. In general - 1% of cases. Moreover, it is impossible to single out one “guilty” manufacturer.
All manufacturers necessarily test microcircuits before sending them for sale and provide a long warranty period. Therefore, in this case it is simple and easy to replace the RAM in service center under warranty.
power unit
RAM not working due to problems with the power supply is also extremely rare. Motherboard, the power supply in all computers is equipped with special controllers that do not allow them to produce more voltage than required.
However, malfunctions still happen. They spoil the RAM bar. The problem can be detected using a voltmeter - a device that not every home has. Here you will have to change not only the RAM, but also the faulty power supply.
Mechanical damage
And this, on the contrary, is the most common case. For example, when you tried to insert the bar into place without calculating your strength. In this case, it may not be the device itself that is damaged, but its connector.
Static voltage
Rare, but still possible. Its lack of popularity is due to the fact that the system unit and the laptop case are always closed during operation. Modern devices are also equipped with a special antistatic layer under the motherboard.
These are truly outlandish cases: you walked on the carpet in rubber shoes, and then began to understand the “insides” of the computer with your hands.
Wear and tear of the device
RAM does not work often for this reason. Everything, as we know, is not forever. The device may fail after a couple of years or after a decade. This is directly affected by the integrity of the manufacturer and the operating conditions of the component.
Overheating/undercooling
Another rare, but still possible case. To disable the device, absolutely prohibitive temperatures are required: -45 °C, +100 °C.
By the way, to protect yourself from such a cause of failure, do not forget to periodically clean the inside of your computer or laptop from dust.
General signs of failure
Do you need to know at what frequency the RAM operates to make sure it is faulty? No, the breakdown simply reveals itself:
- The system cannot start. Or it reboots endlessly.
- The system does not start at all. Often attempts to turn on the PC are accompanied by beeping from the device’s speakers. This indicates that the system cannot detect the RAM, or that the latter (or its connector) is severely damaged.
Signs for Windows
We'll tell you how to find out about a broken RAM stick for users of the most common operating system:
- "Blue Screen of Death" with technical information. At the same time, the error code is always different, so there is no need to “Google” it. By the way, a blue screen also appears when the strip is not fully inserted into the connector.
- PC malfunctions. In relation to those programs, applications, games that use RAM in their functioning. Ends with an error message. Or crashing into a blue screen.
Signs for Linux
It is important to note the following signs here:
- Problems with the browser and other applications. A message appears with a system error code. But it is not possible to view it - an error occurs when performing this action.
- The system cannot boot. Sometimes an error message appears again.
Testing the problem
We've figured out why RAM doesn't work. It is also possible to independently determine that this is the problem. To do this, download the freely available Memtest86 utility program from the developer’s official website onto a digital medium. Let's say, on a flash drive.
Before you run diagnostics with Memtest86, you need to do the following:
- Reset the settings in BIOS. For different models On a PC, it opens when the system starts with a certain key: F1-12, Delete, etc.
- Select the Set to Default option. Save the settings and reboot the system.
- Open the case of the system unit or laptop. Find the RAM stick among other components. Appearance- a rectangular chip fixed with clamps.
- Pull out the bar and inspect it carefully. If the contacts are dirty, they can easily be restored to their former glory using an eraser.
- Return the strip to the slot and close the housing.
- After that, turn on your computer and run from external storage Memtest86.
- After launch, the utility will immediately begin checking RAM. How to find out how RAM works? Characteristics will appear in the upper left half of the program window central processor, in the upper right - the stage and percentage of the test being carried out. After this information - the characteristics of the installed RAM. This information must be photographed or recorded. After all, if the bar has to be changed, then you should purchase an identical one.
- Did Memtest86 find at least one error during the test (text highlighted in red)? Most likely the RAM needs replacing.
- To be sure, turn off the computer, open the case, and move the bracket to another slot. Start the system again and start running Memtest86. If the program again detects an error (or even several), then there is only one conclusion: the microcircuit must be replaced. If there are no errors in this case, the problem is in the connector. Do not use a faulty one or have it repaired by a specialist.
What to do in case of breakdown?
As you can see, you don't always need to understand how dual-channel RAM works to determine that the component is broken. What to do in this case?
There is only one way out - buying a new stick of RAM. If the contacts are frayed or the connectors are faulty, then perhaps you can do without purchasing - a computer technician will help you. The microcircuit itself cannot be repaired. Note that the cost of the device is comparatively small - 1-2 thousand rubles (taking into account the duration of operation). Finally, we advise you to buy a RAM with a warranty period of at least 2 years.
RAM failure is a rare, but still possible situation. Now you know how to determine that the RAM is faulty and what to do in such a situation.
