On the Internet you can find many videos and text materials on production. The production of most of them requires considerable cash and knowledge. In this material we will look at the method of manufacturing what is probably one of the cheapest and simplest stun guns. As a result, we will get a good means of self-defense.
Let's watch a video on making a stun gun
So, we will need:
- electric fly swatter;
- two AA batteries;
- box;
- transparent hoses;
- self-tapping screws.
Unlike most analogues made on the basis of piezoelectric elements, this stun gun will be made of serious materials, so you need to be extremely careful. Let's get started.
First of all, we take the electronic fly swatter and disassemble it. After successfully disassembling the fly swatter handle, all the electronics will open before us.
All we need is the board, which is located at the very top of the handle. The board contains the transformer itself, power supply, a start button, which we will later bring out, an ice indicator that shows that the device is turned on, as well as capacitors, the outputs of which are located on the back of the board.
Since the factory solution for the button location may not be so convenient when installing the board in a box, you can extend the button contacts with wires and install your own switch or button.
The exact location of the button must be chosen at your own discretion, depending on the type and size of the box.
We will use the most common self-tapping screws as contacts. When searching for them, you need to make sure that they are as identical as possible. As for the hoses, we will use them to insulate the contacts.
On the box you need to make two holes for the contacts. If the box, like the author’s, is metal, then you definitely need to take care of insulating the contacts.
Finally, you can make the stun gun rechargeable. To do this, you can replace AA batteries with rechargeable ones.
You can also replace the factory capacitor on the board with a capacitor removed from the camera flash, but we will not do this.
We insulate the inside of the box to prevent short circuits.
The requirements for such a device are usually quite high - a pocket shocker must be compact and have high power. Having made a stun gun with your own hands, you can also equip it with a built-in flashlight. When thinking about how to make a shocker with your own hands, you can additionally think about the location of the charge readiness indicator in it. It is also desirable that the manufactured device does not consume too much electricity and has relatively simple design. It is convenient to use a white lamp rather than a lamp as a flashlight powerful LED, which operates through a resistor from general nutrition. It is more convenient to also provide the readiness indicator with a small LED. It will be useful to have a fuse that will protect against accidental pressing of the discharge button in your pocket.
To make a high-voltage coil, you need to wrap a ferrite rod with three layers of electrical tape, and wrap at least 5 layers of tape on top. Then the primary winding is made, which consists of 15 turns of wire with a diameter of 0.5 to 1 mm. The coils should lie in close contact with each other. 5 layers of electrical tape and 6 layers of adhesive tape are again placed on top. Further production involves the use of polyethylene, for which an ordinary bag is well suited. It needs to be cut into strips corresponding to the coil in width and 10 cm in length. They are necessary for the secondary winding, consisting of 350–400 turns. The winding should also lie tightly and in the same direction as the first. Each wound row is insulated with tapes cut from the package in two layers. After completion, the top of the winding is reinforced with 5 layers of tape.
Additionally, 2 layers of electrical tape and at least 10 layers of adhesive tape are applied, and the side holes can be filled with silicone for reliability. The finished transformer must be checked for breakdowns; for this, current is supplied from the capacitor to the primary winding. If after the formation of the arc there are no breakdowns in the winding, everything is done correctly. In this case, you can begin to manufacture the converter transformer. To do this, you again need a ferrite transformer, which can be purchased, or can be removed from power supplies of various equipment that has become unusable. All existing windings from such a used transformer must be removed; to facilitate this procedure, it can be placed in boiling water. The broken parts are connected using superglue; this will not affect the performance of the finished product.
The primary winding of the converter transformer, without which not a single do-it-yourself stun gun circuit can do, should consist of 12 turns and is performed with a 0.8 mm wire. The finished winding must be insulated using 3 layers of electrical tape and 5 layers of adhesive tape. The secondary winding of the converter consists of 600 turns, and the wire required is 0.1 mm in diameter. The winding is carried out in rows; it is not necessary to make it turn to turn, but even when doing it in bulk, you need to be as careful as possible. It is most convenient to make a row of 70 turns, each new row from the next is insulated with 4 layers of electrical tape. After the winding is completed, the ferrite halves are combined and tightly wrapped with tape or tape. The stages of manufacturing transformers in the manufacture of a homemade stun gun are the most complex and time-consuming.
To obtain a high-quality product, you will need to manufacture a spark gap so that the capacitor can give its charge to the primary winding of the coil. It can be made from an old fuse by removing the tin from its contacts with a soldering iron and carefully removing the wire inside. Instead of a wire, small screws are screwed in on both sides, which should not touch in the middle to avoid a short circuit. The size of the gap between the screws regulates the frequency of discharges that form between the electrodes. The parts are installed in any suitable-sized housing, for example, from an old shocker. For safety reasons, it is advisable to additionally coat the high-voltage part of the circuit with silicone. For bayonets, you can use a fork with cut off middle teeth, two small nails or screws.
For greater safety, the transformer can be placed in a cardboard box of suitable size and completely filled with hot paraffin. The box should have some extra height, since the paraffin shrinks after cooling, and the excess can be removed with a knife after it hardens. For this purpose, paraffin is melted in an iron bowl, but not heated too much, since hot paraffin can ruin the entire work. Experts recommend carrying out the process in two stages - first fill it with paraffin, and then expose it to a fan heater or any other heat source for 10–15 minutes. This will get rid of any air bubbles that may have formed during the first pour. If it is possible to build a vacuum pump, it is better to use epoxy resin instead of paraffin.
In order to supply a ready-made shocker charger, you can use a ready-made circuit from an LED flashlight, where the switches have several positions. During assembly, the batteries are located at the rear of the case, and the power switch can be used as a fuse. Any model with 4–5 amperes or more can be used as a switch. You can remove them from lamps that have become unusable. The locking button should also be high current and have 2-3 positions. For a flashlight, you can connect from 1 to 3 LEDs; this lighting is usually quite enough for a night road. After all the parts are mounted in the housing in their places, you need to check the circuit for serviceability again. Then, to check the power, an ordinary incandescent lamp is placed between the bayonets, which, if working correctly, should light up from the discharge.
Electroshock devices are one of the the best ways for self-defense.
Today you can find it on the market for civilians with a power of no more than 3 watts. The Civil Code is harsh, high-power ESAs are available only to government employees, and for mere mortals the power is limited to 3 watts.
Definitely, the standard 3 watts is clearly not enough for real defense, so you often have to construct electric shock devices with your own hands at home.
In fact, the design of a homemade ESA is quite simple; using a voltage multiplier you can implement quite powerful circuits with minimal costs. The model in question provides an output power of up to 70 watts, which is 13 times more than the power of an industrial stun gun.
The design consists of a high-voltage inverter and a voltage multiplier.
The inverter is made according to a simple multivibrator circuit using two field switches. Choice field effect transistors big enough. You can use keys from the IRFZ44, IRFZ48, IRF3205, IRL3705 and any other similar series.
The transformer is wound on a ferrite W-shaped core. Such a core can be found in low-power Chinese ETs, as well as in domestic televisions.
All windings from the frame must be removed and new ones wound. The primary winding is wound with 1 mm wire and consists of 2X5 turns. Next, you need to insulate the winding with 10 layers of transparent tape or secondary tape and wind the step-up winding.
This winding is wound with 0.07-0.1 mm wire and consists of 800-1000 turns. The winding is wound in layers, each layer consisting of 80 turns wound evenly. After winding, we assemble the transformer; there is no need to fill it with resin.
The voltage multiplier uses high-voltage capacitors of 5 kV 2200 pF - can be found in domestic televisions. Capacitors can be taken at 3 kV, but the danger of their breakdown is great.
There are many ways to feel confident in a dark alley or on narrow unlit streets, but most of them are either illegal or require a lot of time. Not everyone can easily spend 20-30 thousand rubles on a traumatic weapon and even spend a couple of months on training and obtaining a license. The same applies to martial arts - several years of practicing techniques in the gym does not guarantee protection, and learning to fight in a month is impossible.
One of the best options for protecting yourself and loved ones from attacks by intruders is a stun gun. It does not require a license to carry and is not subject to registration with the Ministry of Internal Affairs; it easily fits in a pocket or handbag. Any adult Russian citizen can buy it, but not everyone can afford it. We will look at one of the many ways to assemble a simple and powerful stun gun with your own hands, with diagrams and pictures illustrating the creation process.
Before you start
Homemade stun guns are actually prohibited, since only Russian-made devices that have a license are allowed for use on the territory of the Russian Federation. The very fact of owning such a product may attract the interest of law enforcement agencies.
What is a stun gun
A typical representative of an electrical device for self-defense consists of five components: a battery, a voltage converter, a capacitor, a spark gap and a transformer. The mechanism of operation is as follows: the capacitor discharges the accumulated charge with some periodicity to the transformer, at the output of which a discharge occurs - that same spark. The problem with this design is this transformer, which is created in the factory from special materials according to a secret scheme that cannot be found on the Internet.
Therefore, the circuit will be slightly different - based on a pair of ignition and combat capacitors. The gist is this:
- By pressing the button, the igniting capacitor acts in the same way as in the original circuit - it is discharged to the transformer, and it gives a spark. This spark is an ionized layer of air, with much less resistance than ordinary air.
- at the moment the spark appears, the fire capacitor is triggered, which sends all the accumulated power through this channel with virtually no losses.
As a result, with a lower total power of the product and savings on the transformer, the result is the same, if not worse, stun gun, while being one and a half times smaller.
How to make the simplest stun gun at home: where to start
Manufacturing begins with the most complex thing - the transformer. The reason for this is the complexity of winding it, so that if the assembler cannot bear it and chooses an easier way to obtain a self-defense device (purchase it), then no effort will be expended on manufacturing the remaining parts.
The basis will be a B22 magnetic armor core made of 2000NM ferrite. It is called armored because it is a thing closed on all sides with two terminals. It looks like an ordinary spool, like the one that is inserted into a sewing machine. True, instead of threads, a thin varnished wire with a diameter of approximately 0.1 millimeter is wound into it. You can buy it at the radio market or get it from your alarm clock. Before starting winding, solder leads to the ends of the wire to make the structure stronger and more resistant to breakage.
You need to wind it by hand before free space There will be about 1.5 millimeters left on the coil. To achieve the best effect, it is better to wind them in layers, isolating them from each other with electrical tape or other dielectric. And if you find a PELSHO wire, then you won’t need any insulation at all - it’s already in the wire design: just roll it in bulk and drip a little machine oil.
After winding is completed, insulate the turns with a couple of rolls of electrical tape and wind 6 turns of thicker wire (0.7-0.9 millimeters) on top. Halfway through the winding you need to make a retraction - just twist it and bring it out. It is better to fix the entire wire with cyanoacrylate, and fix the two halves of the coil to each other with cyanoacrylate or electrical tape,
Making an output transformer
This is the most difficult part of making your own stun gun. Since it is impossible to make a standard layer transformer at home, we will simplify the design and make it sectional.
As a base, we will take an ordinary propylene tube with a diameter of 2 centimeters. If you still have these after renovating your bathroom, it’s time to use them; if not, buy them at a plumbing store. The main thing is that it is not reinforced with metal. We will need a piece 5-6 centimeters long.
It’s easy to make a sectional frame out of it - fix the workpiece and cut grooves along its diameter with a width and depth of 2 millimeters every two millimeters. Be careful - you cannot cut through the pipe. After this, cut a groove 3 millimeters wide along the frame.
All that remains is to do the winding. It is made of wire with a diameter of 2 millimeters, which is wound around all sections within the tube. A lead should be soldered to the beginning of the wire and secured with glue to avoid accidental breakage.
A ferrite rod with a diameter of 1 centimeter and a length of approximately 5 centimeters is suitable as a core for a transformer. Suitable material can be found in horizontal scan transformers in old Soviet televisions - you just need to adjust it to the dimensions and grind it to the shape of the rod itself. This is a fairly dusty job, so don't do it at home without a respirator. If there is no workshop or garage nearby, use ferrite rings, gluing them together, or buy them at the radio market.
The rod needs to be wrapped with electrical tape and a winding made of 0.8 wire on it (we used it for the second winding of the converter transformer. The winding is made along the entire length of the core, not reaching the edges 5-10 millimeters, and is fixed with electrical tape.
The core winding is wound in the same direction as the winding on the propylene tube - clockwise or counterclockwise.
After this, insulate the core with electrical tape, but watch the diameter - it should fit tightly into the tube. On the side where the winding on the tube does not have a soldered wire, solder two windings (outer and inner) together. This way you will get three outputs - two ends of the windings and a common point.
If you don’t understand the process, you can watch a video on YouTube on how to make a stun gun with your own hands at home.
The final stage is pouring paraffin. Any will do - the main thing is not to boil it to avoid damaging the internal elements of the transformer. Make a small box slightly higher than the height of the transformer. Place the transformer in it, bring the wires out and fill the exit points with glue. After this, pour paraffin into the box and place it on the radiator so that the paraffin does not cool down and all air bubbles come out. We need a headroom because of the shrinkage of the cooling paraffin. Remove excess with a knife.
Do-it-yourself stun gun from scrap materials: wiring
Now it's time to look at schematic diagram stun gun. It looks like this:
- The igniting capacitor is charged through the diode bridge
- The combat capacitor is charged through additional diodes.
Almost any 330 ohm MOSFET transistors are suitable for the converter; the choice of resistors is also not critical. Capacitors of 3300 picofarads are needed to limit the current when starting the device, that is, to protect the converter. If you are using powerful transistors(like IRFZ44+), then such protection is not required. and you can do without installing such capacitors.
The scheme has one feature: when short circuit contacts (for example, when touching the skin and not clothing), the shocker does not work correctly, since the combat capacitor does not have time to charge. If you want to get rid of this drawback, place a second arrester in series with one of the outputs.
The entire circuit (with the correct arrangement of elements on the board) fits perfectly on an area of 4 by 5 centimeters. For power supply, we will take 6 nickel-cadmium batteries with a capacity of 300 milliamp-hours, half the size AA battery power approximately 15 watts. Thus, the entire device fits into a housing the size of a cigarette pack.
For contacts, it is best to use aluminum rivets. They have sufficient conductivity and have a steel core. It gives two advantages at once: the strength of the contacts increases significantly and there are no problems with soldering aluminum. If they are not available, then ordinary steel plates of any shape will do.
The assembly can be done either on an etched textolite board, or the elements can be soldered with wires. But first, it’s better to assemble it on a breadboard so as not to waste time and effort on remaking the board in case something goes wrong. High-voltage terminals should be fixed to a short distance(about one and a half centimeters) so that the transformer does not burn out.
After unsoldering, turn on the device. Power must be taken directly from the batteries - do not use power supplies. It will not require any adjustment and should work immediately after switching on; the sparking frequency is approximately 35 hertz. If it is significantly less, the reason is most likely an incorrectly wound transformer or incorrect transistors.
If everything works correctly, then separate the output contacts by a centimeter and start the device again. A standard shocker has a distance between contacts of 2.5 centimeters. If everything works correctly, then spread the contacts another centimeter and test the device again. If it works well, bring them back to the standard 2.5 centimeters. Such a power reserve is needed for the device to operate in any conditions of humidity and pressure.
If the parts do not smoke or melt, everything is fine, you can solder the elements onto the board and proceed to the last stage - creating the case.
Housing for a stun gun at home
Since stamping the body at home is not available, and 3D printers are not available everywhere and not to everyone, we will use a folk remedy - epoxy resin. Forming such a box is a painstaking process, but this material has a number of advantages:
- solidity;
- tightness;
- electrical insulation.
To create, you will need the epoxy resin itself, cardboard as a frame, a glue gun and some little things.
It’s best to start the process by cutting it out of cardboard back cover housing with a pre-drawn plan for the location of parts, then cover it with strips of cardboard around the perimeter using a glue gun. The strips should be as long as the width of the shocker (about 3 centimeters) plus room for stickers. You need to glue from the outside of the base, while carefully ensuring that the seam is sealed.
After all the strips have been glued, place the circuit elements inside and evaluate the correctness of their arrangement. Also determine where you will have the start button and the battery charging connector. If everything is satisfactory, then check the correct connection of the elements to each other and the operation of the shocker again. Pay special attention to the tightness of the case - epoxy can penetrate into invisible crevices and leave difficult to remove stains on any surface.
It's time to start filling the mold with epoxy resin. Set the filled mold aside and wait 6-8 hours. After this time, it will not become hard, but will be flexible enough to give the body the desired ergonomic shape. After complete hardening, treat the epoxy with sandpaper and varnish with any varnish, for example, tsaponlak.
As a result, you will receive a reliable and durable device that is not afraid of shocks, falls and water. How to test it? Take a 0.25 amp fuse and place it between the contacts. After starting the device, the fuse will burn out - this shows that the power of the device exceeds 250 milliamps, which is significant power that can stop even the most zealous and large-sized attacker.
Technical characteristics of homemade
stun gun
- voltage on the electrodes - 10 kV,
- pulse frequency up to 10 Hz,
- voltage 9 V. (Krona battery),
- weight no more than 180 g.
Device design:
The device is a generator of high-voltage voltage pulses connected to electrodes and placed in a housing made of dielectric material. The generator consists of 2 series-connected voltage converters (Scheme in Fig. 1). The first converter is an asymmetrical multivibrator based on transistors VT1 and VT2. It is turned on by button SB1. The load of transistor VT1 is the primary winding of transformer T1. The pulses taken from its secondary winding are rectified by the diode bridge VD1-VD4 and charge the battery of storage capacitors C2-C6. The voltage of capacitors C2-C6 when the button SB2 is turned on is the supply for the second converter on the trinistor VS2. Charging capacitor C7 through resistor R3 to the switching voltage of the dinistor VS1 leads to the switching off of the trinistor VS2. In this case, the bank of capacitors C2-C6 is discharged onto the primary winding of transformer T2, inducing a high voltage pulse in its secondary winding. Since the discharge is oscillatory in nature, the polarity of the voltage on the battery C2-C6 is reversed, after which it is restored due to redischarge through the primary winding of transformer T2 and diode VD5. When capacitor C7 is recharged again to the switching voltage of the dinistor VD1, the thyristor VS2 is turned on again and the next high voltage pulse is formed at the output electrodes.
All elements are installed on a board made of foiled fiberglass, as shown in Fig. 2. Diodes, resistors and capacitors are installed vertically. The body can be any suitable sized box made of material that does not allow electricity to pass through.
The electrodes are made of steel needles up to 2 cm long - for access to the skin through human clothing or animal fur. The distance between the electrodes is at least 25 mm.
The device does not require adjustment and operates reliably only with correctly wound transformers. Therefore, follow the rules for their manufacture: transformer T1 is made on a ferrite ring of standard size K10 * 6 * 3 or K10 * 6 * 5 from ferrite grade 2000NN, its winding I contains 30 turns of PEV-20.15 mm wire, and winding II - 400 turns PEV-20.1 mm. The voltage on its primary winding should be 60 volts. The T2 transformer is wound on a frame made of ebonite or plexiglass with an internal diameter of 8 mm, an external diameter of 10 mm, a length of 20 mm, and a jaw diameter of 25 mm. The magnetic core is a section of a ferrite rod for a magnetic antenna 20 mm long and 8 mm in diameter.
Winding I contains 20 turns of PESH (PEV-2) wire - 0.2 mm, and winding II - 2600 turns of PEV-2 with a diameter of 0.07-0.1 mm. First, winding II is wound onto the frame, through each layer of which a varnished fabric gasket is placed (otherwise a breakdown may occur between the turns of the secondary winding), and then the primary winding is wound on top of it. The secondary winding leads are carefully insulated and connected to the electrodes.
Among the means of self-defense, electric shock devices (ESD) are not last place, especially in terms of the strength of the psychological impact on attackers. However, the cost is considerable, which encourages radio amateurs to create their own stun gun analogues.
Without claiming super-originality and super-novelty of ideas, I propose my own development, which can be repeated by anyone who has dealt with transformer winding and installation at least once in their life the simplest devices type of detector radio receiver with an amplifier using one or two transistors.
The basis of the do-it-yourself stun gun I propose is (Fig. 1a) a transistor generator that converts direct voltage from a power source such as a Krona galvanic battery (Korund, 6PLF22) or a Nika battery into increased alternating voltage, with a standard multiplier U. Very important The element of the ESA is a homemade transformer (Fig. 1b and Fig. 2). The magnetic core for it is a ferrite core with a diameter of 8 and a length of 50 mm. Such a core can be split off, for example, from a magnetic antenna of a radio receiver, after first filing the original one around the circumference with the edge of an abrasive stone. But a transformer works more efficiently if the ferrite is from a television fuel assembly. True, in this case you will have to grind a cylindrical rod of the required dimensions from the base U-shaped magnetic core.
The base tube of the frame for placing transformer windings on it is a 50-mm piece of plastic casing from a used felt-tip pen, the inner diameter of which corresponds to the above-mentioned ferrite rod. Cheeks measuring 40x40 mm are cut from a 3 mm sheet of vinyl plastic or plexiglass. They are firmly connected to the tube-segment of the felt-tip pen body, having previously lubricated the seats with dichloroethane.
For transformer windings, in this case, copper wire is used in high-strength enamel insulation based on Viniflex. Primary 1 contains 2x14 turns of PEV2-0.5. Winding 2 has almost half as many. More precisely, it contains 2x6 turns of the same wire. But high-voltage 3 has 10,000 turns of thinner PEV2-0.15.
As interlayer insulation, instead of a film of polytetrafluoroethylene (fluoroplastic) or polyethylene terephthalate (lavsan), usually recommended for such windings, it is quite acceptable to use 0.035 mm interelectrode capacitor paper. It is advisable to stock up on it in advance: for example, remove it from the 4-microfarad LSE1-400 or LSM-400 from the old installation fittings for lamps daylight, which seemed to have exhausted its service life long ago, and cut it exactly according to the working width of the frame of the future transformer.
After every three “wire” layers in the author’s version, a wide brush was used to “coat” the resulting winding with epoxy glue, slightly diluted with acetone (so that the “epoxy” was not very viscous) and the capacitor-paper insulation was laid in 2 layers. Then, without waiting for hardening, the winding continued.
To avoid wire breakage due to uneven rotation of the frame during winding, PEV2-0.15 was passed through the ring. The latter hung on a spring made of steel wire with a diameter of 0.2 - 0.3 mm, slightly pulling the wire upward. Anti-breakdown protection was installed between the high-voltage and other windings - 6 layers of the same capacitor paper with epoxy.
The ends of the windings are soldered to pins passed through holes in the cheeks. However, conclusions can be drawn without tearing the winding wires from the same PEV2, folding them 2, 4, 8 times (depending on the diameter of the wire) and twisting them.
The finished transformer is wrapped in one layer of fiberglass and filled with epoxy resin. During installation, the terminals of the windings are pressed against the cheeks and placed with the ends as far apart as possible from each other (especially in the high-voltage winding) in the corresponding compartment of the housing. As a result, even with 10-minute operation (and longer continuous use of a protective stun gun with your own hands is not required), breakdowns at the transformer are excluded.
In the original design, the ESD generator was developed with a focus on the use of KT818 transistors. However, replacing them with KT816 with any letter index in the name and installing them on small plate radiators made it possible to reduce the weight and size of the entire device. This was also facilitated by the use of well-proven KTs106V (KTs106G) diodes with high-voltage ceramic capacitors K15-13 (220 pF, 10 kV) in the voltage multiplier. As a result, we managed to fit almost everything (without taking into account the safety whiskers and arrester pins) into a plastic case like a soap dish measuring 135x58x36 mm. The weight of the assembled protective ESA is about 300 g.
In the housing between the transformer and the multiplier, as well as at the electrodes on the soldering side, partitions made of sufficiently strong plastic are required - as a measure to strengthen the structure as a whole and as a precaution to avoid sparks jumping from one radio element of installation to another, as well as as a means of protecting the transformer itself from breakdowns. Brass whiskers are attached to the outside under the electrodes to reduce the distance between the electrodes, which facilitates the formation of a protective discharge.
A protective spark is formed without a “whisker”: between the points of the pins - the working parts, but at the same time the danger of breakdown of the transformer and “firmware” of the installation inside the housing increases.
In fact, the idea of a “mustache” was borrowed from “branded” models and designs. As they say, such a technical solution as the use of a switch of a slide type has also been adopted: in order to avoid self-activation when the electroshock protective equipment rests, say, in the chest or side pocket of its owner.
It would be useful, I think, to warn radio amateurs about the need to carefully handle the protective ESA both during the design and commissioning period, and when walking around with a ready-made stun gun with your own hands. Remember that it is directed against a bully, a criminal. Do not exceed the limits of necessary self-defense!
The idea of creating a stun gun with increased efficiency came to me after testing several similar industrial devices on myself. During the tests, it turned out that they deprive the enemy of combat effectiveness only after 4...8 seconds of exposure, and only if you are lucky :) Needless to say, as a result of real use, such a shocker will most likely end up in the rear seat of the owner.
Info: Our legislation allows for mere mortals shockers with an output power of no more than 3 J/sec (1 J/sec = 1 W), while at the same time, devices with a power of up to 10 W are allowed for air traffic police workers. But even 10 watts is not enough to effectively neutralize the enemy; The Americans, during experiments on volunteers, became convinced of the extreme ineffectiveness of 5...7 W shockers, and decided to create a device that would specifically extinguish the enemy. Such a device was created: "ADVANCED TASER M26" (one of the modifications of the "AirTaser" from the company of the same name).
The device is created using EMD technology, and in other words, has increased output power. Specifically - 26 watts (as they say, “feel the difference” :)). In general, there is another model of this device - M18, with a power of 18 watts. This is due to the fact that the taser is a remote shocker: when you press the trigger, two probes are fired from a cartridge inserted into the front of the device, followed by wires. The probes do not fly parallel to each other, but diverge at a slight angle, due to which at the optimal distance (2...3 m) the distance between them becomes 20...30 cm. It is clear that if the probes end up somewhere in the wrong place, It might turn out to be a mess. That's why they released a device with less power.
At first I made stun guns that were similar in effectiveness to industrial ones (out of ignorance:). But when I found out the information given above, I decided to develop a REAL stun gun, worthy of being called a self-defense WEAPON. By the way, in addition to stun guns, there are also PARALYZERS, but they do not steer at all, because they paralyze muscles only in the contact zone, and the effect is not achieved immediately, even with high power.
The Mega Shocker's output parameters are partially borrowed from the "ADVANCED TASER M26". According to available data, the device generates pulses with a repetition frequency of 15...18 Hz and an energy of 1.75 J at a voltage of 50 Kv (since the lower the voltage, the higher the current at the same power). Since the MegaShocker is still a contact device, and also out of concern for one’s own health :), it was decided to make the pulse energy equal to 2...2.4 J, and their repetition frequency - 20...30 Hz. This is at a voltage of 35...50 kilovolts and a maximum distance between the electrodes (at least 10 cm).
The scheme, however, turned out to be somewhat complicated, but nevertheless:
Scheme: A control generator (PWM controller) is assembled on the DA1 chip, and a voltage converter 12v --> 500v is built on transistors Q1, Q2 and transformer T1. When capacitors C9 and C10 are charged to 400...500 volts, the threshold unit on the elements R13-R14-C11-D4-R15-SCR1 is triggered, and a current pulse passes through the primary winding T2, the energy of which is calculated using formula 1.2 (E - energy (J), C - capacitance C9 + C10 (μF), U - voltage (V)). At U = 450v and C = 23 μF, the energy will be 2.33 J. The response threshold is set by summary R14. Capacitor C6 or C7 (depending on the position of switch S3) limits the power of the device, otherwise it will tend to infinity and the circuit will burn out.
Capacitor C6 provides maximum power("MAX"), S7 - demonstration ("DEMO"), which allows you to admire the electric discharge without the risk of burning the device and/or draining the battery :) (when you turn on the "DEMO" mode, you also need to turn off S4). The capacitance of C6 and C7 is calculated using formula 1.1, or simply selected (for a power of 45 watts at a frequency of 17 KHz, the capacitance will be about 0.02 µF). HL1- fluorescent lamp(LB4, LB6 or similar (C8 is selected)), is placed for camouflage - so that the device looks like a fancy flashlight and does not arouse suspicion among various types of police officers and other individuals (otherwise they can be taken away, I had a case where a similar device was taken away). Of course, you can do without a lamp. Elements R5-C2 determine the frequency of the generator, with the indicated ratings f = ~17KHz. The R11 cap limits the output voltage; you can do without it altogether - just connect R16-C5 to the case. Diode D1 protects the circuit from damage when connected in the wrong polarity. The fuse is a fire safety fuse (for example: if a thread shorts somewhere, the battery may explode (there have been cases)).
Now for assembling the device: you can assemble the entire device on a breadboard, but it is recommended to solder pulse circuit(C9-C10-R13-R14-C11-D4-R15-SCR1) by surface mounting, while the wires connecting C9-C10, SCR1 and T2 should be as short as possible. The same applies to elements Q1, Q2, C4 and T1. Transformers T1 and T2 should be located away from each other.
T1 is wound on two ring cores made of M2000NM1 folded together, standard size K32*20*6. First, a winding of 3 - 320 turns of 0.25 PEL is wound, turn to turn. Windings 1 and 2 each contain 8 turns of PEL 0.8...1.0. They are wound simultaneously into two wires; the turns should be evenly distributed along the magnetic circuit.
T2 is wound on a core of transformer plates. The plates must be insulated from each other with film (paper, tape, etc.) The cross-sectional area of the core must be at least 450 square millimeters. First, a winding of 1 - 10...15 turns of PEL wire 1.0...1.2 is wound. Winding 2 contains 1000...1500 turns and is wound in layers of turn to turn, each winding layer is insulated with several layers of tape or capacitor film (which can be obtained by breaking the smoothing conductor from the LDS lamp. Then it is all filled with epoxy resin. Attention - the primary winding must be carefully isolate from the secondary! Otherwise, something nasty might happen (the device may fail, or it may electrocute the owner. And it’s not a bad idea... Switch S1 is a type of fuse (with SUCH power, caution will not hurt), S2 is a button. switching on, both switches must be designed for a current of at least 10A.
A distinctive feature of the scheme is that everyone can configure it for themselves (in the sense of the enemy:) The output power of the device can be in the range from 30 to 75 watts (doing less than 30, IMHO, is inappropriate). And more than 75 is simply bad, because... with further increases in power, the efficiency will not be much greater, but the risk will increase significantly. Well, the dimensions of the device will be a bit smaller.) Output voltage- 35...50 thousand volts. The discharge frequency must be at least 18...20 per second. Recommended parameters - 40 watts, energy single pulse 1.75J at 40Kv voltage. (if you lower the voltage, you can reduce the pulse energy, the efficiency will remain the same. 1.75 J at 40 Kv will be approximately the same as 2.15 J at 50 Kv. But making the voltage less than 35 Kv is inappropriate, since then the skin resistance, i.e., the current, will interfere in impulse will be insufficient).
A stun gun can be easily purchased on the Internet or in specialized stores. But the prices for these products are not encouraging. A full-size model costs on average 10,000 rubles and more. Moreover, most of the presented samples are made in China.
There is also a cheaper option designed to repel and protect against dogs and other animals. It will cost approximately 2000 - 3000 rubles. The price is also decent. So the Internet is replete with instructions for assembling homemade stun guns.
After watching several tutorial videos from Youtube, I decided to try to assemble a similar model from scrap materials.
Let me note right away that it didn’t take much time or any special skills to assemble this shocker.
The heart of our device is a high-voltage pulse generator, which is used for electric ignition in gas stoves and water heaters. It is easier and cheaper to order such a device on the Internet. I used the Aliexpress service, where a generator can be purchased for only 130-150 rubles. I'll leave the links at the bottom of the article.
As a body, I decided to use an old non-working flashlight, powered by rechargeable battery. Offhand, all the new “parts” had to fit into the body.
To power our generator we also ordered battery at 3.7V. You can choose another battery, but in this case you need to pay attention to the power and capacity of the battery. Naturally, the larger the capacity, the better.
Having received both orders in the mail, I armed myself with tools and began assembling the stun gun. The first thing I did was disassemble the flashlight and take out its old battery. The small lithium-ion battery had long since died and was useless. In a couple of minutes I soldered the contacts from her to mine new battery. It turned out to be quite simple.
The next step is to disconnect the light bulb and place our generator in its place. It was even easier. In principle, you don’t even need to solder - you can just carefully twist the wires and properly insulate them. In this case, you need to pay attention to the polarity. The red wire is “+”, the green wire is “-”. This is necessary for proper operation module. By the way, the polarity is often written on the board itself, where the wires to power the light bulb come from.
I connected the generator very easily too. It was time to assemble the device, and then problems arose. Firstly, the old battery was square and much smaller in size. There was nowhere to put the new battery, as well as the generator itself. The flashlight only seemed suitable from the outside. Inside the body there were various grooves, stops and strips on which all the “internals” were held.
And then I had to experiment. To my joy, I found a plastic vitamin jar that fit just perfectly! I stripped the wires through which the generator produces high voltage current and attached screws to them.
Having made holes in the bottom of the can with an awl, I screwed screws into them from the inside so that their bases were as far apart as possible, and the ends, on the contrary, were close. This is also important point, since the generator produces a discharge if the distance between the contacts is 1-2 cm. It will not be able to work at idle. This will quickly disable it. In addition, many craftsmen were faced with the following problem: the discharge took place inside the housing, and not at the ends of the electrodes. Therefore, you should not screw in the screws parallel to each other. And that's all! The generator and battery easily fit into the jar, which, after heating with a hairdryer, was screwed onto the flashlight. For additional fixation, I wrapped the joint with electrical tape.
The shocker turned out great. When you turn on the flashlight, a blinding spark appears and a deafening bang is heard. Many craftsmen post videos about how they assemble shockers in PVC tubes, but this is extremely inconvenient. The old flashlight is the most best option. You already have a ready-made microcircuit that ensures that the battery is charged from the network and the correct supply of energy to the generator. And the power button is also in place.
Here's what happened in pictures:
Charging plug
The cost of the device was about 300 rubles, not counting the broken flashlight. But the shocker turned out to be quite functional, quite durable and compact. Assembly also took very little time - no more than an hour.
Take necessary precautions when using the device.
Post Views: 0
We will show you how to make a mini stun gun with a power of 800,000 volts at home with your own hands. Don’t let the word mini confuse you; many will think that if it’s small, it means weak. But that's not true. Our shocker will be more powerful than most store-bought analogues. For example, let’s take the popular “Bumblebee” stun gun, the output power of which is only 300,000 volts, while our handmade one will have a power of about 800,000 volts. The sound of its operation will be very loud and frightening, so you can protect yourself not only from hooligans, but also scare stray dogs who are very afraid of this sound. To make a shocker we need two such converters:
One converter converts 3.6 volts into 400,000 volts, thus two converters will provide us with a power of 800,000 volts. We also need two such adapters:
One tact button, connectors for 18650 batteries and these 3.6 volt 18650 batteries themselves:
First of all, using hot glue, we glue together two converters and two connectors for batteries. The next step is to connect the minus from the connector to the minus from the converter, and do the same with the second one. Then we glue the connectors and modules together:
After this, we solder the plus from one connector and the plus from one module to one side of the contact button, respectively, the plus from the other connector and module to the other side:
Now we disassemble one of our adapters and connect one wire from the first module to one plug and the second wire from the second module to the second plug, do the same with the second adapter. We fasten our structure with hot glue, our stun gun is ready, we can carry out tests. Many will ask where to get the parts and what the cost of manufacturing this stun gun is; at the end there will be a video with a detailed explanation of where you can purchase the components, the total cost of which is approximately $10.
Video lesson on how to make a stun gun with your own hands at home:
Backup video on how to make a stun gun at home:
Video about parts for a home-made stun gun, where to buy parts:
