An LED strobe light for installing the ignition allows you to quickly and accurately set the optimal ignition timing (IAP) in the car. This parameter plays an important role in correct operation engine. A slight displacement at the moment of ignition leads to a loss of power due to increased fuel consumption and engine overheating.
Despite the large assortment of industrially produced devices for checking and installing SPDs, the relevance of creating a strobe light with your own hands has not lost its meaning in our days. The presented diagram of a homemade strobe light for a car does not require adjustment after assembly and is made from available parts.
Schematic diagram of a strobe
The scheme was developed and presented in the ninth edition of Radio magazine back in 2000. However, due to its simplicity and reliability, it remains relevant today.
In principle electrical diagram A strobe light for a car can be divided into 4 parts:
- Power circuit consisting of switch SA1, diode VD1 and capacitor C2. VD1 protects circuit elements from erroneous polarity reversal. C2 blocks frequency interference, preventing trigger malfunctions. Switch SA1 is used to supply and disconnect power; any compact switch or toggle switch is suitable for this.
- The input circuit, which consists of a sensor, capacitor C1 and resistors R1, R2. The sensor function is performed by an alligator clip, which is attached to the high-voltage wire of the first cylinder. Elements C1, R1, R2 represent the simplest differentiating chain.
- A trigger microcircuit assembled according to a circuit of two monovibrators of the same type, which generate pulses of a given frequency at the output. The frequency-setting elements are resistors R3, R4 and capacitors C3, C4.
- The output stage is assembled using transistors VT1-VT3 and resistors R5-R9. Transistors amplify the output current of the trigger, which is reflected in the form of bright flashes of LEDs. R5 sets the base current of the first transistor, and R9 eliminates malfunctions in the powerful VT3. R6-R8 limit the load current flowing through the LEDs.
Operating principle
The strobe circuit is powered by car battery. At the moment the switch SA1 closes, the trigger DD1 goes into initial state. In this case, a high potential appears at the inverse outputs (2, 12), and a low potential appears at the direct outputs (1, 13). Capacitors C3, C4 are charged through the corresponding resistors.
The pulse from the sensor, having passed through the differentiating circuit, arrives at the clock input of the first monovibrator DD1.1, which leads to its switching. Recharging of C3 begins, which after 15 ms ends with the next trigger switching. Thus, the one-shot device reacts to pulses from the sensor, generating rectangular pulses at the output (1). The duration of the output pulses from DD1.1 is determined by the ratings of R3 and C3.
The second one-shot DD1.2 works similarly to the first, reducing the duration of the pulses at the output (13) by 10 times (to approximately 1.5 ms). The load for DD1.2 is amplifier stage from transistors that open for the duration of the pulse. The pulse current through the LEDs is limited exclusively by resistors R6-R8 and in this case reaches a value of 0.8 A.
Don't be so scared of great importance current Firstly, its pulse does not exceed 1 ms, with a duty cycle in operating mode of at least 15. Secondly, modern LEDs have much better technical characteristics compared to their predecessors from 2000, when this scheme first received practical application. Then it was necessary to look for LEDs with a luminous intensity of 2000 mcd. Now a white LED (from the English Light-emitting diode) type C512A-5 mm from the company with a dispersion angle of 25° is capable of delivering 18,000 mcd at DC at 20 mA. Therefore, the use of ultra-bright LEDs will significantly reduce the load current by increasing the resistance R6-R8. Thirdly, the time of using a strobe usually does not exceed 5-10 minutes, which does not cause overheating of the emitting diode crystals.
Printed circuit board and assembly parts
A homemade strobe light for installing the ignition can be assembled using both inexpensive domestic radio elements and more precise imported elements. Below is a board using domestic components for pin mounting. 
Board in Sprint Layout 6.0 file: plata.lay6
Diode VD1 - KD2999V or any other with a low forward voltage drop. Capacitor C1 must be high-voltage with a capacity of 47 pF and a voltage of 400 V. Capacitors C2-C4 are non-polar KM-5, K73-9 series at 0.068 μF 16 V. All resistors, except R4, are MLT type or planar with the values indicated in the diagram . Trimmer resistor R4 type SP-3 or SP-5 at 33 kOhm.
It is better to use a TM2 trigger of the 561 series, which is characterized by high noise immunity and reliability. But you can replace it with a 176 and 564 series microcircuit, taking into account their pinout. Transistors VT1-VT2 are suitable for KT315 B, V, G or KT3102 with a high gain. Output transistor – KT815, KT817 with any letter prefix. It is better to take super-bright LEDs HL1-HL9 with a small scattering angle. They are placed on a separate board, three in a row. If any parts of the circuit are missing, they can be replaced with more modern analogues, slightly improving the board.
It is convenient to place the finished strobe control board and the board with LEDs in the body of a portable flashlight. In this case, it is necessary to provide a hole in the housing for the R4 regulator, and a standard switch can be used as SA1.
Settings
The circuit contains a tuning resistor R4, by adjusting which you can achieve the desired visual effect. By rotating the knob, you can observe that a decrease in the current pulse leads to a lack of illumination of the marks, and an increase leads to blur. Therefore, during the first launch of the strobe, it is necessary to select the optimal duration of the flashes.
Shielded wire length from printed circuit board to the sensor should not exceed 0.5 m. A 0.1 m copper conductor soldered to the central core of the shielded wire is suitable as a sensor. At the moment of connection, it is wound onto the insulation of the high-voltage wire of the first cylinder of the car, making 3 turns. To increase noise immunity, winding is carried out as close to the spark plug as possible. Instead of a copper conductor, you can take an alligator clip, which should also be soldered to the central core, and its teeth slightly bent inward so as not to damage the insulation.
Installation of UOZ with a strobe light
Before considering the operation of a car strobe light, you need to understand the essence of the stroboscopic effect. If an object moving in the dark is illuminated for a moment with a flash, it will appear frozen in the place where the flash occurred. If you put a bright mark on a rotating wheel and illuminate it with bright flashes that match the frequency of rotation of the wheel, then at the moment of the flashes you can visually record the location of the mark.
Before adjusting the ignition timing of a car, two marks are applied: a movable one on the crankshaft (flywheel) and a stationary one on the engine body. Then the sensor is connected, power is supplied to the strobe and the engine is turned on in idle mode. If the marks coincide during flashes, then the OZ is set optimally. Otherwise, adjustments should be made until they completely match.
The presented strobe light for installing the ignition, assembled with your own hands, will allow you to debug the car’s ignition system in a few minutes. As a result of the adjustment, the engine efficiency will increase and its service life will increase.
Read also
In many stroboscope diagrams to determine the exact ignition timing use IFC lamps and are quite complex circuits their "attachments". I have proposed a relatively simple strobe design that is easy to set up and has no scarce parts (see figure).
R1C1R2VD1VD2 - a link that matches the high-voltage signal from the input of the device to the input of the DA1 microcircuit, which is timer 1006VI1 , connected according to the one-shot circuit. For each input pulse, a pulse appears at output 3, the lifetime of which is determined by link R3C2. Resistor R3 regulates the duration of the output pulse. An amplifier is assembled on transistor VT1.
A single-vibrator is assembled on element DA1, i.e. a waiting multivibrator that waits for input pulses from the high-voltage wire of the first cylinder. The sensor of these pulses is a regular clothespin, on one side of which a wire with a diameter of 0.1 ... 0.3 mm is wound.
The number of turns is 30-50, this winding is securely fixed with “Moment” or “Super Cement”, “Globe” glue, etc. The surface of the winding is protected with ordinary electrical tape so that the clothespin is securely closed or opened. A wire, preferably shielded, is soldered to one end of this winding. The wire shield is connected to ground in the main circuit. Elements R1 C1 R2 R3 match the signal from the sensor with the input of the microcircuit. The duration of the output pulse is controlled by link R3C2. Transistor VT1 turns on and off directly the LEDs HL1-HL9. The LEDs should glow bright white. LEDs do not have a specific brand.
The duration of the output pulse should be within 0.5...0.8 ms. If it is more, then the LEDs will not last long, and the marks on the flywheel or on the crankshaft pulley will be “blurred out”. When adjusting, engine speed must be kept within 850... 1700 min -1. Before adjusting, it is better to mark the speed with reflective paint.
It is advisable to use parts of the smallest possible sizes; the dimensions of the board depend on this. Mica capacitor C1 or K73-11, K73-17 with an operating voltage of at least 500 V. LEDs must first be checked for operation. Their installation on the board should be concentrated in one place in order to maximum flow radiation. PCB dimensions depend on specific device, into the body of which the performer wants to “attach” a strobe. I placed the strobe light in the body of a flat electric flashlight. In addition to the sensor wire, which was mentioned above, you need to enter the +12 V and ground wires.
The assembled device must be checked so as not to damage the LEDs, which are the most expensive elements on the board! Instead, you should turn on any LED and a 1.5 kOhm resistor connected in series. Connect the wires, attach the sensor wire to the high-voltage wire of the first cylinder.
Wires must not touch moving parts of the engine! Start the engine and watch the LED glow. Using an oscilloscope, check the pulse duration at pin 3 of DA1; if it is within 0.5...0.8 ms, then the circuit is working and you can safely connect the LEDs. Make connections only with the engine switched off!
Disconnect the vacuum hose from the ignition distributor. Make all necessary connections. Start the engine and point the strobe beam at the crankshaft pulley or flywheel. Observe the marks at the appropriate places according to technical description specific car. If the marks are in place, then the ignition timing is set correctly. If not, adjustment will be required. Increase engine speed and watch the marks move. This states that the centrifugal ignition timing control is working. Carefully connect the “vacuum”, watch the position of the marks move. If there is a change, then the distributor vacuum regulator is working.
E.L. Vyuga, Cherkassy
Owners of carburetor cars are familiar firsthand with the difficulties of the ignition adjustment process. This is usually done by ear, which is not very convenient. Using a strobe light this process can be made easier. However, industrial devices are quite expensive, so many people make a strobe light for ignition with their own hands.
Disadvantages of industrial models
Industrial devices often have certain disadvantages, due to which the usefulness of the device is highly questionable.
To begin with, the price for them can be quite significant. For example, modern digital models will cost a car enthusiast 1000 rubles. More functional models cost from 1700. Advanced stroboscopes cost about 5500 rubles. Needless to say, a car strobe light (made with your own hands) will cost a car enthusiast 100-200 rubles.
Often in factory devices, the manufacturer uses a particularly expensive gas-discharge lamp. The lamp has a certain lifespan, and after some time it will have to be replaced. And this in itself is tantamount to purchasing a new factory device.
Why is it worth making a strobe light yourself?
The shortcomings of factory and technological devices push the car enthusiast to independently manufacture this device. In addition, it is much cheaper to equip this equipment with LEDs instead of an expensive lamp. An ordinary laser pointer or a flashlight.
The remaining parts will also cost pennies. You don't need any special tools. The budget for the manufacturing process of a strobe light will be no more than 100 rubles.
How to make a strobe light with your own hands?
There are schemes and options for manufacturing huge amount. However, for the most part, all projects to create this gadget are similar. Let's see what you need for assembly.
We will need a simple transistor KT315. It can be easily found in an old Soviet radio. The designation may be slightly different, but it doesn't matter. Thyristor KU112A can be easily obtained from the power supply of an old TV. You can also find small resistors there. Since we are making an LED strobe light with our own hands, we will naturally need an LED flashlight. To do this, it is better to purchase the cheapest one from China. In addition, you need to stock up on a capacitor up to 16 V, any low-frequency diode, a small 12 A relay, wires, alligators, a 0.5 m long shielded wire, as well as a small piece of copper wire.
Assembling the device
The circuit is small, but you can place it right in that same Chinese lantern. So, it is advisable to pass wires through the hole in the back of the flashlight to power the device. It is better to solder crocodiles at the ends of the wires. You need to make a hole in the side wall, if the Chinese have not already made one. The shielded wire will be routed through this hole. At the opposite end, it is necessary to insulate the braid and solder the same piece of copper wire to the main core of the wire. This will be the sensor.
Device diagram and operating principle
Once current is applied through the power wires, the capacitor will charge very quickly through the resistor. When a certain charge threshold is reached, voltage will be supplied through the resistor to the opening contact of the transistor. The relay will work here. When the relay closes, it will create a circuit of a thyristor, an LED and a capacitor. Then, through the divider, the pulse reaches the control terminal of the thyristor. Next, the thyristor will open, and the capacitor will discharge to the LEDs. As a result, the strobe light, made with your own hands, will flash brightly.
Through a resistor and a thyristor, the base terminal of the transistor is connected to the common wire. Because of this, the transistor will close and the relay will turn off. The glow time of the LEDs increases, since the contact does not break immediately. But the contact will break, and the thyristor will be de-energized. The circuit will return to its base position until a new impulse is received.
By changing the capacitance of the capacitor, you can change the glow time. If you choose a larger capacitor, the DIY LED strobe will glow brighter and longer.
Device on a chip
The main part of this simple circuit is a DD1 type microcircuit. This is the so-called one-shot 155AG1. In this circuit, it is triggered only by negative impulses. The control signal will go to the KT315 transistor, and it will generate these negative pulses. Resistors 150 K ohm, 1 k ohm, 10 k ohm, as well as the KS139 zener diode work as amplitude limiters for the incoming signal from the car ignition.
A 0.1 mF capacitor together with a resistance of 20 kOhm will set the desired duration of the pulses that will be generated by the microcircuit. With such a capacitor capacity, the pulse duration will be approximately 2 ms.
Then, from the 6th leg of the microcircuit, the pulses, which by this moment will be synchronized with the ignition of the car, will go to the base terminal of the KT 829 transistor. It is here as a key. The result is a pulsed current through the LEDs.
How is this car strobe powered? With our own hands we need to run a couple of wires to the terminals of the car battery. It is imperative to monitor the battery charge level.
If you put this together correctly simple diagram, you can immediately see how the device works. If suddenly the brightness is not enough, then this is regulated by selecting the appropriate resistance.
You can use an old or Chinese lantern as a housing for the device.
Another strobe light circuit
This LED strobe, made with your own hands according to this principle, can also be powered from a car battery. Diodes will provide protection against reverse polarity. An ordinary crocodile is used as fasteners. It needs to be attached to the high-voltage contact of the first spark plug on the engine. Next, the pulse will pass through resistors and a capacitor and arrive at the input of the trigger. By that time, this input will already be turned on by a one-shot device.
Before the pulse, the monostable is in normal mode. The trigger's direct output is low. The inverse input is, accordingly, high. A capacitor connected with a plus to the inverse output will be charged through a resistor.
A high-level pulse triggers a monostable, which switches the trigger and serves to charge the capacitor through a resistor. After 15 ms, the capacitor will be fully charged and the trigger will switch to normal mode.
As a result, the monostable will respond to this with a synchronous sequence rectangular pulses lasting approximately 15 ms. The duration can be adjusted by replacing the resistor and capacitor.
The pulses of the second microcircuit are up to 1.5 ms. During this period, transistors are opened, which represent an electronic switch. Current then flows through the LEDs. A strobe light for a car works on this principle (whether it was made with your own hands or not does not matter - both devices shine the same way).
The current passing through the LEDs is much greater than the rated current. But, since the flashes are short-lived, the LEDs will not fail. The brightness will be enough to use this useful device even during the daytime.
This strobe light can be assembled with your own hands in a housing from the same long-suffering flashlight.
How to operate the device?
By assembling the device according to one of the given diagrams, you can simply and easily, and most importantly, accurately adjust the ignition on carburetor engines, check the correct operation of spark plugs and coils, and control the operation of the advance angle regulators.
To set the ignition as correctly as possible, it is usually assumed that the mixture is ignited a couple of degrees before the piston reaches the highest point. This angle is called the "lead angle". As the crankshaft speed increases, the angle should also increase. So, this angle is set at idle, and then it is necessary to check the correct setting in all operating modes of the unit.
Setting the ignition
We start and warm up the engine. Now we power our LED strobe and connect the sensor. Now you need to point the device at the mark on the timing case and find the mark on the flywheel. If the moment is broken, then the marks will be quite far from each other. By rotating the timing case, ensure that the marks match. When you have found this position, lock the distributor.
Then it's time to rev up. The marks will diverge, but this is a completely normal situation. This is how the ignition is set up using a strobe light.
So, we found out how to make a LED strobe with your own hands.
A strobe is a piece of equipment that can continuously produce pulses of light. Currently, the most common is the LED strobe. It has found its wide application in various areas of our lives. So, for example, this device is indispensable in the construction and repair industry (illumination of houses, buildings and structures), in the advertising industry, mechanical engineering, as well as in the design of restaurant and hotel complexes, cafes, night clubs and other things.
Thanks to its fairly simple design, an LED strobe can be easily made with your own hands. For this you only need circuit diagram, microcontroller, protective device, as well as sensors, depending on the functional purpose of the device.
This car strobe light is quite powerful and can provide power to a number of LEDs. In order to assemble the device, you should buy a timer on the NE555 chip and field effect transistor. The most suitable transistors may be IRFZ44, IRF3205, KP812B1 and a number of others.
The desired device is quite compact and powerful. In addition, you can adjust the flash frequency of the LEDs. Due to the fact that a small voltage drop occurs at the junction, it is best to use a Schottky diode. Also, it is necessary to create the required tightness of the plastic case in which the board is located. In this case, synthetic silicone will be indispensable.
The field effect transistor usually overheats when long work, so it should be installed on a heat sink. The above circuit can power LEDs whose voltage does not exceed 12 volts. Otherwise the wiring will burn out.
A fairly large number of car enthusiasts and professionals make homemade strobe lights, since this procedure practically does not require any special knowledge and skills. In order to make a strobe light with your own hands and at the same time comply with all the requirements and preferences, you need to carefully approach the choice of LEDs. At the present time, LED devices are the most popular, since their service life, as well as the brightness of the glow, significantly exceed any other types of emitters.
Owners of carburetor cars are familiar firsthand with the difficulties of the ignition adjustment process. This is usually done by ear, which is not very convenient. Using a strobe light this process can be made easier. However, industrial devices are quite expensive, so many people make a strobe light for ignition with their own hands.
Disadvantages of industrial models
Industrial devices often have certain disadvantages that make the usefulness of the device highly questionable.
To begin with, the price for them can be quite significant. For example, modern digital models will cost a car enthusiast 1000 rubles. More functional models cost from 1700. Advanced stroboscopes cost about 5500 rubles. Needless to say, a car strobe light (made with your own hands) will cost a car enthusiast 100-200 rubles.
Often in factory devices, the manufacturer uses a particularly expensive gas-discharge lamp. The lamp has a certain lifespan, and after some time it will have to be replaced. And this in itself is tantamount to purchasing a new factory device.
Why is it worth making a strobe light yourself?
The shortcomings of factory and technological devices push the car enthusiast to independently manufacture this device. In addition, it is much cheaper to equip this equipment with LEDs instead of an expensive lamp. An ordinary laser pointer or flashlight is suitable as a source of diodes or a donor.
The remaining parts will also cost pennies. You don't need any special tools. The budget for the manufacturing process of a strobe light will be no more than 100 rubles.
How to make a strobe light with your own hands?
There are a huge number of schemes and options for manufacturing. However, for the most part, all projects to create this gadget are similar. Let's see what you need for assembly.
We will need a simple transistor KT315. It can be easily found in an old Soviet radio. The designation may be slightly different, but it doesn't matter. Thyristor KU112A can be easily obtained from the power supply of an old TV. You can also find small resistors there. Since we are making an LED strobe light with our own hands, we will naturally need an LED flashlight. To do this, it is better to purchase the cheapest one from China. In addition, you need to stock up on a capacitor up to 16 V, any low-frequency diode, a small 12 A relay, wires, alligators, a 0.5 m long shielded wire, as well as a small piece of copper wire.
Assembling the device
The circuit is small, but you can place it right in that same Chinese lantern. So, it is advisable to pass wires through the hole in the back of the flashlight to power the device. It is better to solder crocodiles at the ends of the wires. You need to make a hole in the side wall, if the Chinese have not already made one. The shielded wire will be routed through this hole. At the opposite end, it is necessary to insulate the braid and solder the same piece of copper wire to the main core of the wire. This will be the sensor.
Device diagram and operating principle
Once current is applied through the power wires, the capacitor will charge very quickly through the resistor. When a certain charge threshold is reached, voltage will be supplied through the resistor to the opening contact of the transistor. The relay will work here. When the relay closes, it will create a circuit of a thyristor, an LED and a capacitor. Then, through the divider, the pulse reaches the control terminal of the thyristor. Next, the thyristor will open, and the capacitor will discharge to the LEDs. As a result, the strobe light, made with your own hands, will flash brightly.
Through a resistor and a thyristor, the base terminal of the transistor is connected to the common wire. Because of this, the transistor will close and the relay will turn off. The glow time of the LEDs increases, since the contact does not break immediately. But the contact will break, and the thyristor will be de-energized. The circuit will return to its base position until a new impulse is received.
By changing the capacitance of the capacitor, you can change the glow time. If you choose a larger capacitor, the DIY LED strobe will glow brighter and longer.
Device on a chip
The main part of this simple circuit is a DD1 type microcircuit. This is the so-called one-shot 155AG1. In this circuit, it is triggered only by negative impulses. The control signal will go to the KT315 transistor, and it will generate these negative pulses. Resistors 150 K ohm, 1 k ohm, 10 k ohm, as well as the KS139 zener diode work as amplitude limiters for the incoming signal from the car ignition.
A 0.1 mF capacitor together with a resistance of 20 kOhm will set the desired duration of the pulses that will be generated by the microcircuit. With such a capacitor capacity, the pulse duration will be approximately 2 ms.
Then, from the 6th leg of the microcircuit, the pulses, which by this moment will be synchronized with the ignition of the car, will go to the base terminal of the KT 829 transistor. It is here as a key. The result is a pulsed current through the LEDs.
How is this car strobe powered? With our own hands we need to run a couple of wires to the terminals of the car battery. It is imperative to monitor the battery charge level.
If you correctly assemble this simple circuit, you will immediately be able to see how the device works. If suddenly the brightness is not enough, then this is regulated by selecting the appropriate resistance.
You can use an old or Chinese lantern as a housing for the device.
Another strobe light circuit
This LED strobe, made with your own hands according to this principle, can also be powered from a car battery. Diodes will provide protection against reverse polarity. An ordinary crocodile is used as fasteners. It needs to be attached to the high-voltage contact of the first spark plug on the engine. Next, the pulse will pass through resistors and a capacitor and arrive at the input of the trigger. By that time, this input will already be turned on by a one-shot device.
Before the pulse, the one-shot device is in normal mode. The direct trigger output is low. The inverse input is, accordingly, high. A capacitor connected with a plus to the inverse output will be charged through a resistor.
A high-level pulse triggers a monostable, which switches the trigger and serves to charge the capacitor through a resistor. After 15 ms, the capacitor will be fully charged and the trigger will switch to normal mode.
As a result, the one-shot device will respond to this with a synchronous sequence of rectangular pulses with a duration of approximately 15 ms. The duration can be adjusted by replacing the resistor and capacitor.
The pulses of the second microcircuit are up to 1.5 ms. During this period, transistors are opened, which represent an electronic switch. Current then flows through the LEDs. A strobe light for a car works on this principle (whether it was made with your own hands or not does not matter - both devices shine the same way).
The current passing through the LEDs is much greater than the rated current. But, since the flashes are short-lived, the LEDs will not fail. The brightness will be enough to use this useful device even during the daytime.
This strobe light can be assembled with your own hands in a housing from the same long-suffering flashlight.
How to operate the device?
By assembling the device according to one of the given diagrams, you can simply and easily, and most importantly, accurately adjust the ignition on carburetor engines, check the correct operation of spark plugs and coils, and control the operation of the advance angle regulators.
To set the ignition as correctly as possible, it is usually assumed that the mixture is ignited a couple of degrees before the piston reaches the highest point. This angle is called the "lead angle". As the crankshaft speed increases, the angle should also increase. So, this angle is set at idle, and then it is necessary to check the correct setting in all operating modes of the unit.
Setting the ignition
We start and warm up the engine. Now we power our LED strobe and connect the sensor. Now you need to point the device at the mark on the timing case and find the mark on the flywheel. If the moment is broken, then the marks will be quite far from each other. By rotating the timing case, ensure that the marks match. When you have found this position, lock the distributor.
Then it's time to rev up. The marks will diverge, but this is a completely normal situation. This is how the ignition is set up using a strobe light.
So, we found out how to make a LED strobe with your own hands.
