Well, it looks like another chronic sore was transmitted from the ancestor. Yesterday, after a heavy beeping on a pedestrian crossing the road, the signal died where it should not. I started by checking the fuse - intact, the rest seems to be all intact too, but he is not a bi-bi. I got today to the computer climbed into the forum loganovodov, after which it was decided to check whether the wire broke in the steering column switch. So one wire broke off. It was decided to repair on their own - just re-solder the wire.
So, at first I unscrewed two screws for the torex from below, and pulling the upper part of the casing I took it off (except for the screws it sits on a plastic one, like clips)
Next, disconnected the terminal block from the steering column switch
The image is reduced. Click to see the original.
and turning the steering wheel for convenience, unscrewed two screws under the cross screwdriver
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pulling in the direction of the door we get the switch
The image is reduced. Click to see the original.
The image is reduced. Click to see the original.
view from the side of the contacts
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That's the culprit
The image is reduced. Click to see the original.
The image is reduced. Click to see the original.
Well, then both failures were soldered to others with soft insulation. Wires from the factory are once once wrapped around the central core of the switch. I immediately soldered directly to the factory solder. I checked everything is spinning and does not pinch anything. After everything was assembled in reverse order.
P.S. I took the switch a little more apart, but I couldn’t do it in the prince (I thought of getting the central switch stalk, but I didn’t take risks) here is a photo:
I bought sound signals from the GAZ 3110, 600 with something rubles. I can’t say that the regular ones are really weak, but I wanted to try to put a powerful sound signal from the Volga and compare ...
I added a relay with a block (were in stock) to unload the button, since both signals consume a current of 15A, but this is exactly the current for which the fuse for the standard signal F17 is designed, which is not buzzing.
Connection diagram (honestly stole on the Internet and redrawn for auto circuit) ...
He installed a relay and a fuse in the block next to the fuse box in the passenger compartment using a wall mounting method. It may not be beautiful, for it is cheap and cheerful. You can optionally attach a relay to the side of the unit.
The wire from terminal 30 of the relay goes to the fuse and then to the red thick wire of the S9 bus. Pins 85 and 87 go into the gap of the standard pink signal wire.
The red wire was soldered to the fuse terminal strip F28-F31 (the second red wire in the photo goes to the cigarette lighter socket in the trunk) ...
In a good way, you need to find the fuse box for disassembly, remove the contact strips from it and install all the additional fuses that I have there, but so far.
The black wire of mass from contact 86 of the relay did not bother to screw the fastening of the fuse box itself ...
P.S. Subsequently, the fuse in the block was removed from the circuit and the wires were soldered so that the standard F17 fuse was used, but already at 20A. The wire of mass pulled to the hairpin of the mass under the dashboard ... 
To replace the signals, remove the bumper ...
Normal signals:
Left low ...
... high pitched right.
The standard signals are connected through a two-wire chip. But for the Volgovskys, only one wire is needed, the mass goes through the pin to the signal housing. At first I thought of trimming the chip, but then I decided to simply strip the standard wire to connect a piece of wire from a new signal to it. A 6.3mm mother plug with a chip connected to this segment. In the process, I noticed on the body, opposite the signal, the pin (mass) not being used, and then it occurred to me to leave the regular signals in parallel with the new ones! I found a rusty but suitable bar in the bins and hooked it to the stud and the old signal ...
On the right side, I also set the high tone signal in parallel with the standard one. There the bracket is slightly longer and has a long slot in the middle, thanks to which both signals can be installed on it
slightly bending the bracket ...
Now the signal sounds much more solid !!!
I shot a video of the sound of the signals, but practically no difference is heard on it, the equipment does not transmit the entire gamut of sounds, alas ...
Note: audio reference numbers
Depending on the configuration, Lada Largus can be equipped with one or two sound signals of different tonality. Sound signals are located behind the front bumper on the left and right. If only one signal is installed on the car, then it is located on the right side (high tone). If there are two signals, then the low tone is set to the right, and the high tone to the left.
High and low tone signals are marked. The high tone signal is indicated by the letter " N"(Hight), and the low-tone signal with the letter" L"(Low).
Withdrawal
Set the car at the workplace, brake with the parking brake, turn off the ignition. Raise the hood, disconnect the terminal of the ground wire from the battery (wrench "by 10").
Note: To remove the sound signals, you can either remove the front bumper (a bit longer in time, but it is more convenient to work), or remove only the front fenders. To remove the bumper, in any case, you need to remove the wing flaps, so you should start with them, and then decide in a particular case whether it will be necessary to remove the bumper. Mounts on different vehicles may vary slightly. Practice shows that to remove the left signal, along with the bracket, you need to remove the bumper, but for the right one, it is not necessary.
Remove fenders and front bumper ()
Disconnect shoe 2, Figure 9-1, front wiring harness from audible warning light.
1 - a bolt of fastening of the device of sound alarm;
2 - a block of a plait of wires of a wire front to the device sound alarm;
3 - sound alarm device
Unscrew the bolt 1 securing the device 3 of the audible signal to the car body (wrench "13").
Remove the audible warning device assembly with the bracket.
If necessary, unscrew the crustein nut and remove it from the signal.
Installation
Install the audible warning device in the reverse order to removal.
The tightening torque of the fastening bolt is 21 N.m (2.1 kgf.m) (replaceable head 13, extension cord, torque wrench).
Install front bumper
Video
Once a sound signal (horn) began to work once, a little later a dependence was detected on the position of the headlight switch, and then the signal stopped working at all. The Internet immediately suggested that it was a childhood sore.
I will not describe in detail how to remove the steering column cover, I will only tell you that you need a Torx screwdriver, I don’t remember what size and long enough. It was very difficult to get a screwdriver into the "sprocket" of the screw, because it is deep enough and at some unnatural angle, which you do not expect and rush past somewhere.
After removing the casing, turn the steering wheel in the direction of “9 o’clock” and unscrew the two screws securing the left steering column switch. Disconnect the block of wires.
We look at the switch block at the back and see such a picture (almost this one, this photo was taken when everything was already fixed, we are interested in red and black wires, my red was broken off)
(see photo below)
Honestly, I did not immediately understand how the mechanism is arranged, and soldered the broken-off wiring to the greasy point of the solder on the lever.
But I did not check after that how the headlight control modes switch. It turned out that the near one seemed to be turned off, the soldered wiring interfered to the end, until the click clearly turned the switch. Well, and soon the signal disappeared again, I had to climb again.
It turns out that when switching the headlight modes, the inner rod to which the wires are connected rotates:
The image is reduced. Click to see the original.
The image is reduced. Click to see the original.
The image is reduced. Click to see the original.
Well, it’s understandable - the wires experience cyclic fracture loads the more, the more often you switch the headlights.
Now we disassemble the unit to completely replace the wires (I changed both at once, without waiting until the second standard one breaks).
Unscrew the two screws on the block cover
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Cover to the side
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Carefully pull the lever up from the switch housing
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The image is reduced. Click to see the original.
Now you need to remove the rotary part from the lever, which, in fact, lights and switches.
We take a flat screwdriver, squeeze the lever into a fist, and act in the same way as many people open the bottles - we rest with a screwdriver, like a lever, on the base of the index finger, tighten the rotary part (it rests on the rod due to tight fit)
The image is reduced. Click to see the original.
The image is reduced. Click to see the original.
The image is reduced. Click to see the original.
I’m still additionally removed from the rotary part of the sound signal button (held on two latches)
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And it turned out, not in vain - one contact pad was burnt due to the fact that on the rod one contact was longer than the other. Well, and, of course, due to the fact that there is no relay in the audio signal control circuit, all the current passes through the button (a reason to think to those who put more powerful signals)
The image is reduced. Click to see the original.
He cleaned the contact area, did not begin to grind the contact - he tapped it, which made him slightly flattened. Well and good - the contact area will be larger.
The image is reduced. Click to see the original.
The image is reduced. Click to see the original.
We pull the rod out of the lever, unsolder the wires from the switch unit, unsolder the wires (or their "bits") from the rod.
We are looking for wires that are suitable in diameter, because they must crawl into the holes on the rod. If suitable, take pieces of wire of the desired length. I took longer than the regular ones (in the first photos, where, in fact, everything is already ready, it is clear that their supply is clearly larger) to reduce the effect of the breaking moment.
Solder and wrap around the rod, laying in the corresponding grooves and threading into the corresponding holes.
Hello everyone today, I want to talk about why the signal does not work on the Lada Largus car. On Largus there is a two-tone sound signal. There is also no signal relay, and both signals are connected when turned on through a fuse. If it suddenly happened that you click on the signal, by the way, the Largus sound enable button is located on the steering column switch on the left, and you don’t hear the sound, it means that something went wrong and the first thing to do is to check fuse F17 (15A).
If necessary, you need to replace the signal fuse, and if after replacement it blows again, then you need to look for a short circuit. After checking the fuse, if it turns out to be working, then the reason must be sought in the steering column switch.
In the steering column switch, the black wire at the base of the solder likes to break off and in this case you have two ways to buy a new switch, which is not so cheap or to do soldering, provided that you can do it. Also, the possible malfunctions of the sound signal of the car Lada Largus include the sound signals themselves. But the likelihood that both will fail immediately is very small.
Well, that’s all we have examined the main reasons why the sound signal does not work on the Lada Largus car. Bye everyone.
