Air conditioner control panel
Another variant
1. Compressor switch. 2. Switch for air circulation modes in the passenger compartment. 3. Switch for blowing the front windshield. 4. Rear windshield heater switch. 5. System switch button. 6. Knob for adjusting the temperature. 7. Switch of blowing mode "on glass and feet". 8. Switch of the blowing mode "on the face and legs". 9. Automatic mode switch. 10. Switch of the blowing mode "on the face". 11. Switch of the blowing mode "to the feet". 12. Knob for adjusting the air flow.
Automatic air conditioner option
1. Button for increasing the air flow rate. 2. Button for decreasing the air consumption. 3. Mode switch button. 4. Compressor switch. 5. Automatic mode switch. 6. Rear windshield heater switch. 7. Switch for blowing the front windshield. 8. Button of the switch of modes of circulation. 9. System switch button.
Universal display
1 - Preset air temperature inside the passenger compartment; 2 - Indication of the automatic operating mode of the air conditioner; 3 - Indication of ventilation mode; 4 - Indication of the intensity of the air flow of the fans; 5 - Dimmer of the display screen backlight; 6 - Button for setting the time "clock"; 7 - Button for setting the time "minutes"; 8 - Button for fixing the time setting; 9 - Button for turning on the equalizer; 10 - Button for turning on the outdoor temperature indication; 11 - Indication of the outside air temperature; 12 - Equalizer; 13 - Time indication.
Air conditioner control
1. Buttons for adjusting the intensity of the air flow
By pressing the buttons of the air flow rate, you can set one of 10 values of the fan rotation speed, which will be shown on the scale on the display. Each time you press the up and down arrow buttons, the fan speed will change one step up or down, respectively. The scale on the display screen changes accordingly. Different display scale values correspond to different ventilation rates:
1-2: corresponds to 1 column of the scale.
3-4: Corresponds to 2 columns of the scale.
5-6: Corresponds to the 3 columns of the scale.
7-8: corresponds to 4 columns of the scale.
9-10: Corresponds to the 5 columns of the scale.
2. AUTO button
Pressing the AUTO button turns on auto mode the operation of the air conditioner. In this case, the indication of the "AUTO" mode appears on the display screen, and the indicator on the button lights up. In this mode, in accordance with the set temperature value, the air conditioner automatically controls the operating modes of the ventilation flaps, maintaining the temperature, the intensity of the ventilation air flow, and turning on the compressor. All values on the screen of the MPD corresponding to the mode are also updated automatically.
3. Stop button OFF
After pressing this button in any operating mode of the air conditioner, the indication of the air flow rate is removed from the display screen, the power indicator of the air conditioner goes out.
4. Buttons for setting the temperature (TEMP)
When the fans are on, by pressing these buttons, you can set the desired temperature in the car. Adjustment range: 17-32 "C. Each press of the up arrow button increases the set temperature by 0.5" C. Each time the down arrow button is pressed, the set temperature is decreased by 0.5 "C. When changing specified values indication of the set temperature on the screen of the universal display changes automatically.
5. Glass heating button (FRT)
After pressing this button, the indication "FRT" appears on the display screen. The system starts to work in the glass heating mode (from fogging). The indicator on the button lights up. Ventilation dampers are installed in the position for glass heating. Pressing the button again deactivates this mode. The indication is removed from the display screen and the indicator on the button goes out. When this mode is activated, fresh outside air begins to flow through the vents on the dashboard to the windshield. At this time, the indicator on the switch button is on.
6. Heated rear window (RR)
Pressing this button turns on / off the rear window defroster. The heater switches off automatically after 10 minutes. after starting work. It can also be disabled manually at any time. After turning on the heater, the corresponding indicator comes on. By pressing the button again, the heater turns off and the indicator goes out.
7. MODE selection button
By sequentially pressing the MODE button, the operating modes of the fan dampers are switched in a cycle: "head blowing" - "bi-directional blowing" - "feet blowing" - "head blowing". When you switch, the display changes accordingly on the display screen.
8. Air conditioner switch button (A / C)
The A / C button can be used to turn on or off the air conditioner compressor. The corresponding indicator lights up. This button controls the start and stop of the air conditioning system. The button has an operating mode indicator. When the compressor is running, the indicator is on, after the compressor is off, the indicator goes out. But when you turn on the glass heating button described above, the A / C button turns on automatically.
The airflow rate of the fans is then set to the maximum value by default.
9. Button for switching internal, external air circulation
This button sequentially switches between the internal and external regimes air circulation. In this case, the corresponding indicator comes on (or goes out). The corresponding graphic indication is displayed (or deleted) on the display screen.
10. Max Cooling function
When the set temperature is set to +17 "C, the system turns on the maximum cooling mode.
11. Max Heating function
When the set temperature is set to +32 "C, the system turns on the maximum heating mode.
12. When automatic Air conditioning systems regulate the environmental conditions in the vehicle interior, which allows the driver and passengers to feel comfortable. The time to turn on and off the air conditioner, the duration of the compressor cycle may vary slightly depending on the engine speed and output power.
13. Quick setting of the set temperature in the cabin
When the AUTO button is pressed, the minimum value of the preset temperature is automatically set - +17 "C. The intensity of the air flow is set to the maximum. When the maximum preset air temperature is set to +32" C, the flow intensity is also maximum, which ensures quick achievement of the preset temperature, after which the mode of internal air circulation in the passenger compartment is activated.
14. Backlight intensity adjustment button (ILLUM)
Each time you press this button, the backlight intensity of the display screen increases by one value, and the corresponding indication is displayed on the screen itself - from 0 to 5. A value of 5 corresponds to the maximum brightness of the backlight. After the next press, the backlight intensity is set to 0.
15. Buttons for setting the time on the clock (SET), (HOR), (MINI)
(1) If you press the clock setting button SET and hold it for about 2 seconds, the digits on the hour display start flashing ^. In this case, you can set the time values.
(2) Each time the HOR button is pressed, the hour indication increases by one hour. Each time the MIN button is pressed, the minute display increases by one minute. After setting the preset time value, press the SET button again.
(3) Pressing the SET button once will cycle through the time format - from 12-hour to 24-hour.
16. Equalizer On Button (EQ)
This button can be used to switch different types preset equalizers. Each press of the button switches the types of equalizers in the following cycle: "low-high" (BT), "monophonic" (FLAT), "jazz" (JAZZ), "pop music" (POP), "classic" (CLASS ), Rock music (ROCK), vocals (VOCAL).
17.Outside air temperature indication switch button (ON / OFF)
Using the ON / OFF button located on the air conditioner panel, you can turn on or off the outdoor temperature indication. The temperature displayed on the screen will correspond to the ambient temperature of the vehicle in motion.
In most cases, the reason that the monitor does not turn on or there are problems with the image is the incorrect operation of the video card, incorrect settings or incorrect connection.
Simplest check:
- Disconnect all wires from the monitor
- Connect only power cable
- The monitor should turn on. The message "No signal" appears on the screen
After a while, the monitor enters the “Stand by” power saving mode (the power indicator changes color, the picture disappears)
In this case, the monitor is most likely good. There are, of course, possible exceptions.
You can also check the health of the monitor by connecting it to another computer.
If the monitor has proven to be inoperative, it is worth contacting a service for diagnostics and repair. Our article will tell you what to look for when describing the problem, so that already during a telephone conversation you will be correctly guided in terms of price and repair time.
Before calling a workshop, find out the exact name of your monitor model. A number of models have standard malfunctions that have long been known to service center employees.
Monitor does not turn on, power indicator is off
If the monitor shows no signs of life, there is likely a power problem. Most often, this breakdown is easily repaired.
There might be a problem with the monitor's power cable or connectors. In this case, if you change the position of the power cord, the indicator may light up briefly when the contact appears. In case of complete inoperability, it is likely that the power supply will need to be repaired.
Power light is blinking, no picture
Blinking of the voltage indicator (cyclic power on / off) regardless of the position of the cord is a signal of incorrect operation of the power supply or the main board (main board).
The service center will determine the cause of the problem and fix it.
Power indicator is on - no image, backlight is on
The most likely problem is the processor board (MB) of the monitor. For diagnostics, you will have to contact the service, since such "symptoms" do not allow you to immediately determine the cause of the malfunction. The master will be able to give the exact answer only after examining the disassembled monitor.
The backlight of the monitor does not come on or goes out after a few minutes of operation
Sometimes the picture can be seen in reflected light, when looking at the monitor from above, from the side. The monitor reacts to buttons, there is access to the menu. It is possible that the monitor works immediately after switching on, and after a few minutes the backlight turns off. The problem is in the inverter or in the backlight lamps: they burn out over time or can suddenly fail as a result of mechanical stress (for example, shock). Repair consists in replacing lamps or a converter. For this procedure, it is worth choosing a service meticulously: the procedure is complex, requiring a certain level of qualifications and increased accuracy from the master.
Decreases screen brightness and appears reddish
These symptoms indicate burnout of the backlight lamps, as in the previous case. There may be a drop in brightness and a reddish tinge only in a specific area of the screen or across the entire monitor. The problem is solved by replacing the lamps, and as a preventive measure, various dark screensavers and monitor sleep mode settings are used. The fewer nights the monitor will stand with a static image on, the longer the lamps will last.
Stripes on the screen
The appearance of vertical or horizontal stripes on the monitor screen - a sign of decoder loop failure. If the stripes change their location, then the problem may be in the video card, and if the stripes have constant localization and colors (black, white, colored), then the problem is in the monitor matrix. For replacing the master's loops in service centers they are practically not taken, since there is no confidence in the success of the operation and that the problems will not return in a short time. The only solution to the problem is to replace the matrix assembly. If your monitor is under warranty, immediately after the stripes appear, contact the service, even if there is only one stripe so far and it does not bother you.
If the stripes appear on the monitor, the warranty period of which has already expired, find out at the service center the cost and the estimated repair time for your model. An original matrix is required, and the cost can be comparable to buying a new monitor.
Distorted image or color
Usually occurs due to the loss of contact in the signal cable or broken connectors. Check the signal cable (VGA, DVI) by replacing it.
The DVI (digital) cable can only be switched (!!!) on a de-energized monitor !!!
If the defect persists, then this is most often due to either incorrect operation of the video card, or a breakdown of the monitor processor board. In some cases, it can be fixed by flashing.
The master will be able to name the exact cause of the malfunction and the cost of repair only after diagnostics.
The monitor does not display an image from the computer, displays messages
If, instead of the usual picture, the monitor displays a service message ("check the cable" or "non-optimal mode"), and this state does not change after the appropriate changes (replacing the cable, setting the required mode), most likely the problem is in the monitor. A number of monitor models with a MICOM processor (Samsung 710 (N / V), 713/913, some Philips, LG) have a standard malfunction associated with quick exit failure of the processor. Repairing or replacing the defective processor will completely fix the problem.
Malfunctions of LED monitors
LED monitors differ in the type of backlighting: LEDs are used instead of lamps. Breakage of LEDs, which manifests itself as a decrease in brightness in a separate area of the screen, is quite rare and is successfully repaired.
We draw your attention to the fact that a slight unevenness of the backlighting of an LED monitor in budget models is already encountered upon purchase. In this case, the center of the screen is more illuminated than the edges. This is due to the use of cheap materials to create the scattering layers of the screen. Not perfect color reproduction is also a feature of LED monitors, they are simply not designed for professional color work.
One of the frequent breakdowns of LED monitors is screen flickering, which becomes noticeable when the brightness decreases. For some models, repair is limited to flashing, while others require replacement of the processor board.
15.02.2014
From experience I know that the most unpleasant and time-consuming troubleshooting is "incomprehensible" malfunction. Such that when the owner of the car begins to list them, there is a feeling of unreality: "This cannot be!" Because the illogicalness just creeps out of every word.
Well, judge for yourself, I'll give you the last example: a 2007 GREAT WALL Hover car. The problem began to arise gradually: a man was driving and driving, and he wanted to lower the window, it’s hot. Mechanically and without being distracted from the road, he pressed the window regulator button and the car jerked and stalled at the same second. He didn't understand. I looked at the dashboard, on the sides - everything is fine. Only it is extremely incomprehensible ... the man started the engine again and drove off. And then I recalled this incident and told my acquaintances as something extremely surprising: “This cannot be, but it happened - now I’ll tell you…”.
And he would have forgotten about this incident, and would not have remembered - if this had not happened again: he wanted to open the window, pressed the button, and the car once - and stalled. And then he was no longer surprised, but had to get nervous and think that it might be time for him to go to the car service and deal with this incomprehensible problem.
But in life, as it happens: "Until the roasted cock pecks." And the malfunction inside the car lived, developed until another thing happened - incomprehensible, mysterious and disturbing: during the trip I pressed the brake, and the car took over and stalled ... release the brake, start the engine again - you go as if nothing had happened ... So the only conclusion is: “To the car service! Yes, quickly. "
From own experience in finding and eliminating such "mysterious" malfunctions, I know that when a malfunction is tagged "incomprehensible, illogical, mysterious", then the problem may lie in the car electrician.
I always look with curiosity at the client, to whom you will tell about the cause of the malfunction, show its place and name the price for the work. Someone wonders, they say, why is it so expensive? ..
"Expensive" is relative. I understand that everyone does what he does and wants to get adequate money for his work. And the search for an "incomprehensible, mysterious, illogical" malfunction is approximately the same as throwing a needle into a pile of sand on a KAMAZ, dumping this sand on the ground and saying: "Now let's find this needle" ...
Of course, there is a certain and many years of experience in finding such faults, so I can show you where I started looking for a fault:
This is the driver's seat and everything around it. Why: this is where all the information and power circuits of the car pass. And when the malfunction is "incomprehensible and mysterious", then you can assume bad contact somewhere, bad "mass" and the like. And what do you think, how many contacts, connection points can be located in the space shown in the photo above? Not ten, exactly. But the figure "one hundred or more" is closer to the truth. And each contact, connector, connection point must be inspected, examined, and made sure that it works.
Unfortunately, at that time I had certain difficulties under the name "information hunger" and a specific scheme of specific areas electrical circuits I could not find it. And this is not “amazing”. Probably only dealers can have full information, and we, private car entrepreneurs, have to somehow dodge.
However, it's not all bad. I know that Legion-Avtodata has been developing and promoting its Motordata program for many years. But I will not lie: at that moment I did not have the right electrical circuit of this car:
This scheme came to me later. And this is what I thought: "if this schematic was at that moment, then troubleshooting would take much less time."
Well, I began to clarify the problem and look for this mystery in the appearance of a malfunction. I started with the ignition switch, then moved on to checking the fuses under the hood, the fuse box in the passenger compartment. Then the doors ... burn ...
There are different ways to determine the malfunction. In the initial training courses of the same Toyota, it is written about them: “Testing for brittleness ... for bending ... for vibration". And at some point, I discovered that when one of the driver's door harnesses was moved and broken, the power was lost. I looked more closely: the harness under the left pillar trim at the driver's feet:
More specifically, the problem rests against this connector:
First theoretically, then practically figured out this place. And when he took it apart, he nodded with satisfaction: "This is it ...":
Some contacts looked more or less normal:
... and some simply rotted:
So much for the "mysterious" malfunction. In principle, "everything is very simple" - if you have many years of experience and a day in reserve. Or "two days + infinity" - depending on the complexity of the task.
To clean, clean the connector and the remaining contacts from the "green" is a thankless and unnecessary work. Don't leave like that. Therefore, I made new connections with a different connector.
The question remains: “How could this have happened? How can this be avoided? " So, so: the car was not a "drowned" and "green" on the contacts and connectors from this could not appear. Where then?
As an option, I can suggest this: "Violation of the factory technology." What exactly? Inaccurate dimensions of parts, for example. If the "dad" enters the "mom" and has at least some kind of gap, then in this place - provided that a large current flows there, a so-called "vulnerability zone" is created, provoking carbon deposits on the contact pads and, as a result, poor conductivity - which increases the current, creates excess heat; then there is local heating, reflow, and here it is - a "mysterious" malfunction. And moisture gets on the contacts through the slots of the connector seals. All this together creates such a dangerous cocktail that will surely come out together with an "incomprehensible and strange" malfunction. And it's good if everything, as in this case, will cost "a little blood". But it could have happened differently: due to poor contact, the current will exceed the maximum permissible value, which can provoke such a strong local heating, which will lead to melting and fire. Will you agree with me?
